Projects FED with killer Flathead

If the lifters enable you to use the "drill rod" in the lifter bore approach, you may want to do this. The only problem is that I think you'll still be putting pressure on the two balls - long before your piece of drill rod can stop the turn. My guess is that you'll have to grind the tops of the lifter bores with a carbide cutter. Another approach that typically really reduces the amount of adjusting is adjust one - get the length, set ALL the rest of them to that length (outside the engine), then put them in the engine. This will get them a lot closer from the get go.

On a recent engine build, we didn't grind the lifter bore tops - we just adjusted them when they were open, moved them back down to see where they were at, checked to see if we could put a feeler gauge in, moved them back up, etc.. It was a tedious process to say the least! I'd definitely spend the time to reword the bores so I could adjust them while they are down.

Best of luck - any news on the final crank work? How much did you have to grind and where on the crank? Having it balanced once again I imagine!

Dale

 

Thanks Dale.

You confirmed what our thoughts where!
Excactly what you say, the drill rod solution are dropped, as you point out, we can not hold it stable while adjusting.
I like you idea to adjust when lifter are up, then i will see if we can make a jigg to hold it!? There are two notches on eatch side of the lifter that can provide as a lock. We will look at this tomorrow.
Either way, it will be timeconsuming!
I think we will set the valve to lifter clearence apit more, then start and run the engine 2-3 times, then check the clearence and hope the valves have set. With our modest valve pressure, i don't think the valves will sit to much!? I hope!

As for the crank? READY today, will get it back tomorrow!

Br
Kjell

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Any updates Kjell . . . we're all waiting!

 

YES! Crank finally back
But as you all know, allways some challenges on custom engines this old!<O</O
As all main caps are fabricated new ones, rear main didn't fit right when innstalled with new bearing.So Grinder1 had to take it for a minor adjustment on the mill. Hope it will fit better when we try it out this week!? A litle conserned about oil not escaping from the rear main!?<O</O
Here is one idea;
Grind/file a small track extending the two existing notches in the bearing?<O</O
Have anybody done this before?
<O</O

I have to gind some more on the block, small adjustments, so all rods will clear, 0.080".
<O</O<O</O
Also have to find a new company who could laser/water cut the head and intake gaskets. We hopfully have the right file, (DXF).<O</O
<O</O
I wouldn't be surprised if other stuff needs to be redone!?

Bussy weekend, carpenter work, carstuff, twins birthday

Br
Kjell
<O.....................................
Taildragger&fenderless<O

 

Hey Kjell:

You should be able to buy the head gaskets "off the shelf" - from a variety of folks. If you need other custom gaskets, get in touch with 'Mark' at FlatOut gaskets - he knows his shit and can turn stuff around rather fast. He has made all of our FlatCad gaskets.

Head Gaskets: Don't attempt to run solid copper head gaskets unless you have your heads O-ringed (which requires a CNC mill to do). We put the O-Rings into the FlatCad heads so we could run custom gaskets - as we've added 7 studs per side and made our own heads. The cost to O-ring the heads was about $500 . . . it is not cheap to do custom CNC work! The shop used a .030 end-mill to do it . . . looks like a "pin" instead of a milling bit!

PS: If you happen to have a good/accurate DXF file of a flathead deck/head surface, would LOVE to have one. I need it for a custom 3D design that I'm thinking of - don't have time to figure it all out with a dial caliper.

Also, once I make a 3D model of the deck surface in SolidWorks, I'll flip the 3D model back your way. Now is that a deal or what!

 

Hello Dale.

Here is what we had in mind,
We have run ordenary big bore's before, but we thought they would not hold with the pressure we will run.
Other gouys that i know of have run solid copper gaskets with no leak.
But its's mandetory to use Hylomar gasket seal with this setup.

I know that O-ringing the heads will be the best, but no local guys have done this before! What type of material do you use for the O-ring?
I have to discuss this with Grinder1! Maybe we have to do this.

I would be really happy to flip the DXF-file to you, finally i can give something back!
But don't know if you can use it, it's just scanned of a set of big bore headgaskets, an my inntake.
3D is interesting !

Thanks again!

Oh, have been doing stuff today also, looks like end thrust clearence is within your specs. We will check the main bearing clearence as soon as i get the rear main back. Put the blower together to, loooks good!

Br
Kjell

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

We use a stainless wire. If you ever need a set of heads done, maybe just buy them over here, I'll have them O-Ringed and then sent your way. Probably WAY too much money - but an option.

I might be able to use the DXF file - can at least validate the hole centers and see if they are close. Once I get an accurate 3D model, then we can get DXFs and gasket drawings off of it - no problem.

 

Hey Kjell how about some update pics...

 

Thanks guys!

Well, big improvment this evening!
After scraching our heads, read frustreated, we finally found out why the crank locked up when trying to fit the rear main. We had grind down the face toward the crank a bit, small cuts. We checked and re checked the thrust end clearence, was within Dale's recomandations.
We finally found out that we had taken a to shallow cut to clear rear thrust/oil-slinger ring. A 15 min. job, then everything fitted like a glow!
Crank spunn really easy!
Mounted the rods to check final block clearence, OK!

Big smiles and thubs up!

Then had to mock the engine up, just to get an idea how it looks!?!

You be the judge?

Dale! Files will be sent to me next week, the guy needed to make some ajustments, before final files.


Br
Kjell

 

That is one fantastic looking blown flathead Kjell . . . I just drooled on my keyboard!

I bet you're getting a bit excited to hear this dog bark! You've had some major setbacks along the way, but it is all coming together in a really nice way. Just goes to show us all, that we need to always be patient and ensure that the job is done right - rushing things or taking short cuts just causes drama and frequently causes major disasters.

Keep cranking Kjell!

Dale

 

Damn that's pretty, Kjell! I'm glad to see you were able to overcome the obstacles you faced!

Bring that bad boy over here- I know a car you could run it in at B'ville!

 

Wow Kjell that is stunning, great job, how is the blower drive at the crank gonna hook up? and what are you gonna do for a dist hold down? I usually make a hold down to use chev dist hold down and not just a grub screw....

I still haven't got my crank back from the balancer and now I am not a happy camper as I will have to go this weekend without the race engine oh well I guess thats the peice you pay when you rely on others. Maybe next week, maybe not ................

 

Well Dale, when we mocked up this thing, strange feeling, almost like the first female encounter!?

Exactly! patience is a virtue

Thanks Buddy

That is on really good idea! Must sleep on it tonight!
Either way, we are planning to go there next year.
Wife is a litle anxious about the heat!?

Thanks Carl!
We have run this set-up before, with no problem. Grinder1 has made several new pullys and a new idler pully.
Regarding keeping the magneto in plase, i figured i do as i have done on the modell A, make a splitt 2-4 cuts, aprox. 1/2" down the pipe, then use a clamp to tighten it. I have found out that the clamp on the oil breathing pipe on the 8BA fits like a glow!

Hope you get the crank soon.
Looks like we are going to be busy all winter!

Br
Kjell

 

Had a good sleep last night!

A dream of going to Bonneville, racing down the salt with my blown flathead in my face!

Here is a closeup of the bottom end, rods finally clear the block!

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Congrats!

What kind of HP do you expect?

 

Thanks Buddy

If the blower can deliver, and the special Ross pistons will hold?
we can set up the blower as much as 20 psi.
We hope this will get us in the low 9's or at best high 8's?
The killer should provide aprox. 450-500 hp!? We Hope.

Br
Kjell


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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Well, the record in XF/BVCC is 152.494.

We went 153 in the car with 300hp.

Just sayin'......



edit: Awe, nevermind! I just remembered this is a FRENCH flathead, and not allowed in the XF class!

 

Darn! Time to change the rules!

But i can easily make it an 59L!


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Taildragger&fenderless

 

ALOT done this weekend!

Master painter did his job with flying colours!

Here are some pictures after prep, basecote, clear, sanded....
and really cool part, masking for the details!


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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Paint! Must be getting close to starting the monster up!

 

Thanks!
Hope we get the final parts together soooon!?
We plan to install the piston-rings inn wednesday, also get the cam and lifters inn. I we do this, and get my hands on the DXF files.
And no other hurdels on the way, we plan to get it ready by end of the month!????

Oh, here are some more pictures of the paintjob!

Br
Kjell


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Taildragger&fenderless

 

OH YEA!

That looks great!

 

Wow Kjell that looks beautiful!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks guys
The painter did a fantastic job as allways!!
Can't thank him enough!
I think the Sidewinder will go faster with this paint!
Mabe low 8's!??

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

Awesome - Awesome - Awesome.

Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks

Pistons and rings are finally inn, fitted like a glove
Next up is the valvetrain.
Camtag says:
0.018" Ex. clearence HOT
0.016 Inntake clearence HOT
We use stainless steel valves.
What would be the correct clearence COLD?
I would rather have abit more clearence, as the valves would "sit" abit
after runn inn!??

Br
Kjell

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

If there is no coating on the cam lobes (moly, etc), then I'd probably add .001 or so. Truth is, I've never yet set the valve adjustment on a flathead and not had to do it later anyway . . . so just consider the initial setting a step in the right direction. Over the years, I've actually ran every flathead cam a bit tighter - closer to .013 intake and .014 or .015 exhaust. I know that it all depends on the components, just have found that the cam manufacturers tend to be conservative on lash. I've yet to have the last too tight - and had to add clearance . . . but maybe that is just me!

 

Thanks again Dale!

I have pondered about the figures, and i will go for abit less lash.
We are still avaiting the files, sorry.

Spent some hours yesterday with the "killer", everything is comeing together pice by pice. Even got the starter inn tho check alignment,
perfect

Those black pistons just screem, NITRO!

Br
Kjell

.....................................
Taildragger&fenderless

 

Did some details today!
Mounted the new windshield, and the painter came up with a very good idea for a small cool detail! You'll see later on!
Also tried out Roger's steering axl-cover.

More work to be done this week, so we can let "the killer" down in the chassis!

Br
Kjell

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Taildragger&fenderless

 

For what it's worth, banger and flathead guru Jim Brierley told me .010 intake, .012 exhaust, hot. Jimmy Stevens and Pete1 told me .011 and .013.

These guys are all seious racers, and should know!

I would think .012 and .014 would be safe.