I'm stuck on the fence on which way to go with a 32 frame. Is it best to start from scratch with a new set of rails and cross members of your choice? Or is it better to start with an original rolling chassis and remove whats not needed and use or mod what is need? I like the idea of starting with an original rolling chassis but I don't know if that's the most cost effective way to go. I guess it would depend on what it's worth and what the parts that I don't use could be sold for. It would be nice to have a real Henry frame to go with my body not to mention a real VIN too. I don't have a set drive train combination in mind yet. I like the idea of a flathead and banjo rear end but in all practicality it will probably get a early 283, T-10 and I'm not sure of the rear end. So what's your thoughts, a scratch built or an original? Pros and Cons of each? By the way, what should an original unrestored rolling chassis go for anyways?
An original take out will cost at least $7000 and thats without title. You're going to need even more for one with a title. May as well buy a complete car!
$750 rails $150 boxing plates $75 front crossmembers $150 speader bars $100 S10 rearend (PERFECT WIDTH) A big ass heavy duty (accually a 2x3 warehouse rack boxed tubing) trans crossmember & chevelle rear arms lengthend to mount the same crossmember centering all the energy & wieght.
If you buy new rails, definitely go with American Stamping. The JW Rod rails look weird, not quite right. Just my 2 cents....
I have the original Henry issued 32 Ford rails under BOTH my 32's. SO ... I may be biased !! But I had the original titles with my 32's and wanted the serial numbers ( correct ... stamped by Henry ) on my frames. Every set of ASC rails that I have been around are low in the rear end. They needed heating with a torch to close up the gaps between the fuel tank and a original Ford body. Every set also was too narrow in the frame area ... 6 to 12 inches in front of the rear axle when the right width at the very end of the rails was set correct ( 40 inches ). The 41 and 1/4 measurement has averaged 40 .5 or about 1/2 a inch too narrow. This messes up the fender fit to the frame. That said ... every original set of rails has needed some " adjusting " to make them meet specifiation also.
I think it depends on the total plan for the car. If it is going to be a really traditional build, it seems to me that a real frame with a real Ford stamped ☆18-XXXXXX☆ VIN or 4 cyl. VIN and title means way more options down the road for you or a future owner (it happens).
I don't know what it is like in Alberta, however; here in Ontario there is no issue with obtaining an ownership for a Deuce, legally, as you do not and should not purchase a ownership. Do not confuse our big brothers to the south of us who purchase and sell ownerships all the time, which I understand is legal in may States, however; here in Ontario it is not legal. I do not know what the Provincial Statute is in Alberta, as I would assume it would not be legal to purchase an ownership, as our Criminal Code of Offences do not differ across our Provinces. So with that issue out of the way, aftermarket would be less expensive ! As suggested above, American Stamping Rails are very good with some work. If you want to spend thousands more, original rolling frame would be kool.
I'm stuck on the fence on which way to go with a 32 frame. Is it best to start from scratch with a new set of rails and cross members of your choice? Or is it better to start with an original rolling chassis and remove whats not needed and use or mod what is need? If you have time and paitence, build your own. Get some American Stamping rails and build it exactly the way YOU want it. IF you're curnched on time, Russ Nomore sells a pretty good priced perimeter frame for about $2000-$2500. Its comes setup for a SBC, TH350 trans, coil overs, etc. My bud who owns a shop and is a professional welder cannot build and sell them for that low of a price (labor included). Be aware, NOTHING is universal. You will modify or change SOME aspect of that chassis. I like the idea of starting with an original rolling chassis but I don't know if that's the most cost effective way to go. I guess it would depend on what it's worth and what the parts that I don't use could be sold for. It would be nice to have a real Henry frame to go with my body not to mention a real VIN too. If you can find/afford one, DO IT! I don't have a set drive train combination in mind yet. I like the idea of a flathead and banjo rear end but in all practicality it will probably get a early 283, T-10 and I'm not sure of the rear end. I'm using an 8.8 out of a Ford Expedition. 4.11:1 gears, 31 spline axles, limited slip (posi). The rear end plus aluminum driveshaft cost me $125 at my local U-Pull-It. They're currently a dime a dozen and can be found literally in ANY junkyard (readarts). Just my $0.02. So what's your thoughts, a scratch built or an original? Pros and Cons of each? Scatch built-means you can start off with a clean set of stampings and modify it however you like. It's going to take a lot of time, money, energy, and research to get it right. Original- well, you cant beat original. Period. By the way, what should an original unrestored rolling chassis go for anyways? I can only recall seeing one or two "rolling chassis" for sale in recent history. I have NO idea what they went for, but they were not cheap. <!-- / message -->
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