Anybody ever use all metal body filler?

I agree it is going to vary slightly from batch to batch but varying the dry time by 20-25 minutes at the same room temperature is going beyond slight variations and is an invitation for trouble with any polyester product.

 

Good question! Anybody hear of this stuff, and is it still available?

 

If he hasn't seen it since '74 I would guess it is long gone. Probably had some toxic stuff in it like Asbestos or Lead.

 

Way back in the early 80s, my dad told me about that stuff. We went looking for it then and couldn't find it. My dad used it a lot patching up the "Uncle Marty's Ice cream" trucks in the late 50s early 60s.

 

did I read properly that you can powdercoat over this?

 

I would be very careful using any polyester based metal filler for powdercoating. It can work but it can also fail. There are a long list of factors that can lead to failures such as the tempurature the powder coater bakes at, how quickly he heats/cools part up and down, the thickness of the material being coated etc. It might come out fine or it may fall off during the powdercoating process wouldn't be a chance I would want to take. There are fillers designed espcially for powdercoating that I would use to be safe.

 

We've used all metal filler and Fibral over our welds/patches at work. Lately we've been using fibral more. It's easier to sand, and still locks out the moisture. I personally haven't used all metal yet, but I do want to try it. Judging by the other guys that have used it in the shop, if you have enough time to work with it, then the results seem very good, but if you're short on time, then fibral or a similar product seems to be the way to go.

 

No , but I still have a thing of Aluma-lead sitting on my shelf that will never get used. Ive used All Metal it works alright. I personally think duraglas is just as good but hey whatever works for you. Its all in the prep work if you ask me.

 

Hey SHORTDOG,

I've used this product, and its' other varients in the 70s, and then, as now, it was a whole lotta nothin'! It's polyester filler with aluminum shavings and a little added talc Given what paint material runs today, why gamble with ''snakeoil-carnie crap"? If you're lookin for filler to do the job that you should be doing with good welding techniques and metal work, the real question is why? No filler is as good as real metal beneith a finish, especially a candy or pearl!...............and never use filler to cover emblem holes
These products always had a high waste rate given the catylist used. As mentioned, if you don't get the mix ratios right on the money, more grief! I shaped it with a 60 closed coat disc on a 7'' grinder, followed by 80 grit on an ''idiot stick".

" Meahwhyle, back aboard The Tainted Pork "

 

So, if I understand correctly, your answer to the question is that you don't remember it. I let the question stand. Maybe somebody has some knowledge of the company or product.

 

jimi'shemi291

I remember Magic Metal and " Lab Metal" is still offered, it's an open air conductive epoxy found generally at welding suppliers and some hardware stores. It can also be thinned, sprayed or powercoated. There is minimal shrinkage and a high heat version.

 

Dose all metal look like metal the reason I ask is I'm going bare on my 50 five window and lead is getting harder to find the guy at my supply store says it holds like lead.I know aluma lead dose but they don't carry it any more and I don't want a messed up looking ride

 

Lead is hard to find locally in most places. It is worth the effort to search it out, or order on the 'net.
Don't believe your supplier!

 

i used a product in Australia on my pickup well over 25 years ago called jetflex,,,an aluminised bondo,,,,and yes it worked very well ,,its as hard as f#$k to sand ,,the bodywork i used it on was rust free gas welded repairs,,,i was a rand amatur and yes it has stood the test of time,,,it was a little stringy to spread but as a base coat i think it has made my pickup last the tests of time,,,people think my car has a good body its painted black and it was bogged up all those years ago by an over enthusiastic 17 year old ,,,,patina is in fashion these days so the stone chips are a badge of honour,,,all composites are truely mixed via weight,,,go to your local tobbaconist and buy some cheap drug dealer digital scales,,mix on a flat plate of glass if possible and never with a screwdriver or stick etc,,,use a cooks pallete knifekeeping the top edge clean throughout your strokes,when you think its mixed ,scrape it up into a lump,splat it down and do it again(no air bubbles and moisture cant get in)

 

I like it and have successfully used it on some of my cars. Mostly in areas where I have welded. It is a little harder to work with and cloggs your paper faster when sanding. I have never used it as a finish coat. It does have a shelf life so I buy the smaller cans as needed.