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Projects My 32 5 window build thread..now chopped.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Tony, Nov 6, 2011.

  1. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member

    I rented a blaster this weekend for a buddy and i to use to get our stuff cleaned up.
    Aside from the rear tail pan and a light amount of rust on the lower wheel wells on his 26, it's SPOTLESS!
    He took the artsy pics.
    I built the whole lower portion of my 32 last fall, and decided to get back on it since my 62 is done.
    This time til it's done though. here's a handful of pics we took.

    Tony
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 29, 2012
  2. swissmike
    Joined: Oct 22, 2003
    Posts: 1,297

    swissmike
    Member

    What media did you use to blast the body?
     
  3. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member

    Extra fine sand. felt like silt compared to the heavy stuff.
     
  4. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Wow that's great!!! I'm trying to get my clapped out body blasted right after thanksgiving. I'd be interested in hearing what media you used as well. What was pressure set at?

    Oh the dash for that 32 is nothing short of aaawwwwweeesssoommmee!!!
     
  5. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Did you have surface rust or that brown discoloration associated with deep rust? I need to get tons of that out.
     
  6. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member

    The discoloration was more deep rust under the old paint/body work.
    That's what we used the fine sand instead of shells etc. It's darker than the virgin tin, but clean.
    Not sure where the pressure was, pretty sure higher than we should have had it. We just kept moving quickly and never hit a panel straight on. All glancing passes. There was no warping allowed! and thankfully, none made haha

    Thanks for the compliment on the dash. I was "told" it supposedly came from one of Gray Baskerville's cars. I have absolutely NO proof and never will, it was just a neat tid bit the guy i got it from just had to tell me. Probably a sales pitch.
    Regardless, i dig it and it was definitely done a long time ago. The original insert looks to have been gas welded, and done really nice at that.

    Tony
     
  7. brady1929
    Joined: Sep 30, 2006
    Posts: 9,573

    brady1929
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    great start to an awesome hot rod
     
  8. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    I have a ton of that deep rust discoloration on my '32 body. I've stripped the paint and used a wire wheel on some of it but it doesn't seem like it wants to come up. That's why I'm thinking the blasting would be a good next step. I was going to try a molasses bath but it would be like 14 weeks of it being dipped since I could only do a side at a time and I hate to put the other guys at the shop through all that.

    So Basically I'm hoping to clean up what's left of my body with the sand. that quarters just need som DA sanding as they are newer brookville pieces. Wish me luck!!!

    Great work again, it looks like a dream starting point. Floor is recent addition or was that done back in the day? The sub rails are welding to the floor it looks like huh? I need to put a floor in so if you can post some shot of that as well :D. Haha!!
     
  9. kiwiandy
    Joined: Apr 19, 2005
    Posts: 425

    kiwiandy
    Member

     
  10. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member

    I'm thinking yours may clean up good once you use the sand. Mine was not heavily pitted, just rusted but it still cleaned up real nice. A few spots on the inside were pretty shitty, and even they cleaned up great.
    I did the floors, and whole lower portion of the body last fall. I threw a post up on here when i did it but we all know they move to page 2045 in a hurry. There were a few pics of floor in that thread when i did them.
    I can get a few more if you want, or can't find the thread.

    The body i've owned for a touch over 10 years now, and did nothing to it but gather parts til last year when i did the tin work.
    It was not a pretty car, and was FAR from solid. No different than a 1/25 scale model. No bottom at all.
    The OG frame i picked up had been Z'd wayyy back in the day, but never finished. So i decided to build my own floors and subrails to fit the Z'd frame instead of spending money on repro stuff.
    So you are right, i welded the sub rails to the floor.

    Here's a couple pics of what i started with. These were taken about a week after i bought it.

    Tony
     

    Attached Files:

    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  11. Looks great Tony,,the fine sand really does the best job it just generally takes more sand.

    When I did the wagon I used 33 one hundred lb. bags,,that's 3,300 lbs. of sand,:eek:,,I HATE SANDBLASTING!,,but once it'd done it pays off big time.

    Now use some metal prep and get some primer on it before it starts rusting! HRP
     
  12. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member

    I hear ya! there's about 1000 lbs of sand to do just what you see in the pics..
    It really does do a nice job though.
    And i agree on coated it! i don't want to do this again for a while......at least not to this one :)
     
  13. carcrazyjohn
    Joined: Apr 16, 2008
    Posts: 4,841

    carcrazyjohn
    Member
    from trevose pa

    My guess you used triple 000 sand ,I have to pick some up myself .Looks great ,I bet your glad your done,
     
  14. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    aha! I'll look for the thread, thanks for the heads up! I was going to say something about the frame. It looks cool and has that "old" look to it which I did. There's no crazy brackets in there (yet) and looks like it was done back in the day like you said.

    I'm sure I've posted mine so I'll spare you the details but I have a lot to get rid of.

    KIWIANDY, I've tried numerous different products including naval jelly. I even ordered a product called Rust Release but that didn't do what I hoped it would at least not on the shit I have. I might try it again with the steel wool that you were talking about, maybe that's the trick.

    Anyways, Tony thanks for sharing it's exactly the kick in the ass I need!
     
  15. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member

    Could be, the bags just had "X-tra fine" on them. And YES i am!! haha
     
  16. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Ok here's a question. How much is in a bag? 100 pounds? And how much is a bag? Because if I need ten bags at $30 I'll need to save my nickels!!!
     
  17. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member

    The one we use are 100lb bags, and for 15 bags it was about 190. So roughly 11-12 per bag.
     
  18. 71buickfreak
    Joined: Sep 26, 2006
    Posts: 610

    71buickfreak
    Member
    from Oklahoma

    Looks great! Next, I would switch to crushed glass over the sand. It will leave a better surface and it is safer. I use #5 whiteblast, $10/ 50lb bag.
     
  19. JeffreyJames
    Joined: Jun 13, 2007
    Posts: 16,627

    JeffreyJames
    Member
    from SUGAR CITY

    Ahhhh that makes my wallet feel much better!

    (Note to self: Find $190 worth of stuff to sell or a $190 bill.) :D
     
  20. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,586

    117harv
    Member

    Build a small tent around the body with clear plastic and some small tubing, leaving both ends open for air cross flow, keeps the dust down . After awhile stop clean up the sand you have saved with the tent, run it through a fine wire mesh and reuse. Done it this way many times, you could do that body with 2 to 3 bags.
     
  21. Idaho/Dave
    Joined: Jul 22, 2007
    Posts: 625

    Idaho/Dave
    Member
    from Idaho

    Get a price to have your body and parts blasted, check with your local powder coater,or larger paint contractors,I've blasted coupe body's and a whole pickup load of parts for around 250.00
     
  22. I picked up my sand from a concrete/brick supply,,they keep the bags of sand inside so it's dry,like Tony the sand I used was extra fine.

    I couldn't take all my stuff to someone to blast because I did it in stages over a long period.

    Make sure you use a good respirator when sand blasting,,silicosis,breathing the dust from sand in this case,will kill your lungs. HRP
     
  23. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,091

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    Bout time buddy! Looks good, sure do wish you still had that other body...:(
     
  24. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member


    At times, so do i...i still wish it would have worked out that you got it but what can ya do..
    On side note, i'm pretty sure i want to turn my deck lid into a cheese grater.....wanna loan me your louver dies so i can see if i can ruin an original deck lid? :D:D

    As far as the blasting, we pretty much do it like HRP does. In stages. This time it just happened to work out that i had everything ready to blast at once. A recovery tent would be nice too, but again, it's not something we do very often. We are considering buying one of these blasters though, and if we do we'll probably get a bit more serious about recovering the media were using.

    Thanks guys. I'm going to start getting into it this week. Probably start on the chassis first, then finish the body stuff..

    More to come.

    Tony
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Nov 7, 2011
    kidcampbell71 likes this.
  25. slepe67
    Joined: Jan 22, 2008
    Posts: 1,146

    slepe67
    Member

    Tony, what a coincidence!!!1 I jsut had my 5W blasted this weekend as well.

    For Jeffrey- I paid $230 do have my shell blasted jsut like Tony did. The guy that did it has been blasting old cars longer than I have been alive, and we both agreed that light passes were in order. I told him just get the big chunks out, and I'll neutralize the rest. Mine still has some deep pitting. Check out my thread for what I'm doing:

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=7119737#post7119737

    post #112 spells out my plan.
     
  26. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,091

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    Tony, you're more than welcome to use these "dies" (if you can really call them that), but it would probably be just as easy for you to whip up a set for yourself. All you really need are a few chunks of scrap, took me about 15 minutes to make them. I can supply pictures of them too if that will help. Let me know...
     
  27. MrSpade13
    Joined: Sep 9, 2010
    Posts: 67

    MrSpade13
    Member

    Man what an awesome build. Gotta respect it.
     
  28. kiwiandy
    Joined: Apr 19, 2005
    Posts: 425

    kiwiandy
    Member

    This is what I have used but I think the blasting would be faster!
    http://www.metalmeet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=2257&highlight="rust+removal+willys"
    Andy.
     
  29. Tony
    Joined: Dec 3, 2002
    Posts: 7,350

    Tony
    Member


    Thanks Andy. If'n you don't mind shoot me the pics to my email, i can use them for reference and just make a set of my own.
    Thanks man.

    And thanks to every one else for the responses. :)

    Tony
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2012
  30. Slim Pickens
    Joined: Dec 15, 2008
    Posts: 3,344

    Slim Pickens
    Member

    Thanks for sharing. Great stuff.
    Slim
     

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