1928 Model A, I beam front end or Mustang II?

I was wondering if I could hear from the guys running original or new I beam front ends on these old cars. I have driven 3 '28's with the Mustang II style front ends and they are decent, but I've heard the old style is very sloppy and dangerous to drive at high speeds. I would like to build my car as traditional as I can, but it HAS to be safe so I might opt for the newer style. Any info and advice would be greatly appreciated. I have to sell the truck first, but after that I will build a 2x3 and 2x4 chassis for the car, channel and Z it (still on the fence about chopping because I saw a KILLER '28 four door not chopped in the last rebel rods mag). I will be running a Dodge 318, likely a 727 trans with a Mustang 8.8 out back. I don't want to stretch it too much but hanging the front end a bit further out front is the plan. I also want to run a back seat and under car fuel tank. I didn't say it was gonna be easy lol.

 

lol yeah sloppy and dangerous at high speeds I guess that land speed roadster I built a couple years ago thats been 200 mph is unsafe haha!

Setup properly the I beam is just as safe and stable as any must2 stuff.

you can swap on discs and have great brakes too.

 

Set it up right and it will be fine at todays high way speeds.

IFS on a model A is a bad idea unless you want a street rod. Nothing traditional (model A speaking) about an IFS.

 

I've had my Model A on the road for the last 25 years, I-beam with split wishbones (wouldn't have it any other way), drives smooth as can be whether 25 mph, or cruising at 80 mph. Besides Model's A look terrible with IFS.

 

With a SOLID axle I'm wondering where this apparently unavoidable "sloppyness" comes from...and as for "High speed" stability:
Your learned friends are correct.
NOTHING, I repeat NOTHING beats a 1970's Pinto.

You need to consider the source of your information as they would appear to be well intentioned, though misguided Magazine Rodders.

 

After reading what you plan for your car theres nothing traditional about it. Sorry

 

Okay, sounds like you have been a bit misled. A MustangII is a great front suspension, under something where it can't be seen. Under a '47 Ford or a '39 Chev it's my first choice for a compact, correct width, well engineered front suspension. It is however, ugly as sin. Anywhere where it can be seen, such as the open fronts of a pair of Model "A" fenders is absolutely the wrong place to put it. We have had about ninty years of time to develope and perfect the Ford I beam and cross spring front suspension. If it is set up correctly, it handles beautifully, rides well, and just as importantly looks correct. I am going to suggest that who ever told you otherwise either has read alot of advertising over the last couple of decades, or has not taken the time to properly understand the hows and whys of the basic Ford beam axle. As stated above, this type of front suspension is not only under thousands of driven Hot Rods, but under a large potion of Bonneville and El mirage cars going way in excess of what the average driver is going to go. It's simple, it works, and it looks right. Go for a good quality beam and cross spring. If your builder or helper say otherwise, look for a new builder.

 

Untrue. Don't listen to anything else those people say.

 

Mustang II works well in fendered car but open suspension needs traditional I beam.

 

I drove my unsafe, sloppy straight axle A model all day without killing myself or anybody else, that I know of....

 

x2
Where, by the way, did you hear that "the old style is very sloppy and dangerous to drive at high speeds?" Why don't you check your source(s) and ask how far back and 'all-inclusive' their Hot Rod building experience goes! There are thousands of builders, professional and hobby, on this site that swear by "the old style;" built properly, even 'Lakes' speeds of 200mph are not unusual. Thank God you have the HAMB; listen to many of those that have 'been there, done that.'

 

My grandpa told me about a sweet 32 Model A he built in 1929, they chopped up a Mustang II for the front suspension and took the 9" rear from it and then he broke into the secret army shop while he was drafted for WWII in 1930 and found chunks of then new metal called aluminum and used the lathe to turn out some wheels that look like all the ricer kids like these days and put them on it. Said the lighter weight gave him 100 more horsepower. So proof that a MII is totally traditional.

Sadly he was in an elite assassin group sent to kill Hitler, and in 1931 he got the banger going 300 MPH at a Nazi rally and jumped out before it hit Hitler, thus ending WWII.

 

i wouldn't put a mustang 2 suspension in a mustang 2.

 

i wouldn't put a mustang 2 suspension in a mustang 2
He's right even a Mustang needs a straight axle!!

 

i knew the history channel had it wrong....lol


GREAZY HUBCAPZ CC East TN

 

x10! Note 1939 thats right 1939 Ford axle on Stude in avatar! I punish the hell outta that axle and then run well over 120 mph! Wutteru gonna be doin with it? HA! take THAT!

 

I am a creature of what works best, every car I have ever built had a OLD I beam axle under it, my 28 flatback P/U has a little over 130.000 miles and it seems to work fine, I'm still here and it still goes strait, Isn't Mustang 2 like corvair, unsafe at any speed.

 

You need to find some other people to listen to and while your at it read some different magazines (maybe '50s & '60s Hot Rod).

By the way, all them 80,000 lb trucks rolling down the highway use those "sloppy and dangerous" I-beam axles.

 

Come on guy, everyone knows that WWII didn't start until 1939. . .

 

Best reply ever!

 

Please, please...do not ruin a nice Model A, ....or any model A with a Mustang 2 setup.

 

First mistake..listening to these "friends"

second mistake not doing your own home work.

third mistake , bringing the suggestion of a M2 set up on a model A to this forum.

now...will you make the 4th mistake and build it with that M2?

guess time will tell

Oh and BTW..tell me agin how sloppy and unsafe the beam axle is again?
<--- that Model A didnt seem to fall into that notion...and just about every other A on this site

 

Of course you wouldn't - it's already done for you by Ford

 

mine ran at 75mph all day without a problem

 

M II won't fit under A fenders without a bulge added

 

Hey guys not trying to hijack this thread but to help out this guy, and myself further, any suggestions on how to set-up an I beam axle correctly?
Im doing a 40 p/u and have rec'd a few good tips like the shackles should be on a 45 degree angle therefor will help with bump steer etc.

HOW IS YOUR AXLE SET-UP TO BE CORRECT?????????????

 

being a traditional site, 99% are going to tell you that a MII has no business under a Model A.. and I agree 100%.. nothing worse looking. under a later 30's car and newer, I am all for them.. especially for cars in the 40's and 50's. no fenderless car should ever run them.. unless you want a high tech look and then you should go with a different independant front susp..

 

Just basic stuff off the top of my head... New well fitted king pins with out any dicernable slop are key. Shoot for about 7degrees of caster. If you are using original ford spindles, life will be easier if you keep your tie rod behing the axle. You are dead right on a forty five degree angle on shackles, helps control side to side movement and gives the spring it's "travel". Between four to seven leaves in your spring depending on engine weight. A good quality correctly valved shock is key, I'm addicted to Bilstein's myself. Make sure that your front spring has realistic amount of arch to allow it to move. I can't tell you how many cars I have worked with lately that wanted the car low, so were trying to run with the front spring all but collapsed. There is more to it, but that is a good start.

 

Setting up or tuning up an I beam axle

Please help this out guys read what i have so far if not workable please correct me

A) Installed shackles ideally should sit at about a 45 degree angle

B) Well fitted king pins w/o any decernable slop

C) Shoot for 7degrees castor

D) Better if the tie rod is behind the axle

E) Install 4-7 spring leafs depending on your engine weight

F) A good quality correctly valved shock, Bilstein is a quality shock

G) Make sure your spring has enough arch allowing it to be compressed & not flaten out.


ADDITIONAL INFO CAN BE ANSWERED BELOW TO ADD HERE

1) How to figure the correct shock length is it something like set up at 40 % of its travel with an additional 60% left for the road. Just fishing here

2) What is the correct position of the drag link ? is it supposed to be installed parallel to tie rod helping to eliminate bump steer?

3) whats the feeling on slideing buttons opposed to leaf liners

4) GM steering box from 1936 up being a heavier vehicle & vega steering from 1935 down



5) Power steering box from 36 up? do you have one? whats your good/bad points? ( if this thread gains interest i have sources for p/s box valves)


This posting continued here
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/editpost.php?do=updatepost&p=7139227

 

Ya! When the Germans bombed Pearl Harbor!