1928 Model A, I beam front end or Mustang II?

If your going to build a Hot Rod.............then build a true Hot Rod!

If you want a modern suspension then go buy a new car


Ive had countless Hot Rods all my life........all traditional

 

We are getting a bit off topic on this thread, but here goes.

1) Shock length should ideally be as close to 50% as you can make it. I mentioned Bilstein shocks 'cause they are awsome, and when bought through a reputable distributor like Industrial Chassis they can be valved to your needs for the same price as off the rack

2) On a cross steer set up with the drag link close to parallel to the tie rod is good, if not, a slight incline up to the steering box is the better option. On a side steer unit, it would depend on your suspension (wishbones, four bar, etc.) but say a wishbone install with a Ford box (pitman pointing down) keeping the draglink eye level with the wishbone's frame mount and as close to the frame mount as possible is going to be the best geometry. ( I read that now and it's clear as mud, but I don't know how to state it any different. Your looking for the suspension and steering to move in the same arc.) Kinda stare at a stock Model "A" or '32 for a minute and it becomes obvious what I'm yammering about.

3) Much prefer teflon sheets 'cause I hate the bumps on the spring leaves... with out the bumps the buttons have a short life and come out easily. I also use wide tubes of shrink wrap from an electrical supply house to cover springs instead of tape or loose fitting vinyl covers.

4) Not a bad idea, but G.M. made a slightly heavier box called the 525 for mid sized cars like the Monza and such, just a bit bigger than the Vega, but smaller than the full sized box. Pretty sure on the number, definite on the application. As a P.S., several "heavy" '36 - '48 Fords have used Vega boxes for many years trouble free. Truth is they're not much heavier than the donar Vega.

5) Personal decision... I wouldn't put power steering on any thing! EVER! But, I prefer a large, stock type steering wheel myself. If you feel the need to go with a small 12"-14" wheel, you might need power steering. Remember wheel size gossly effects leverage.

 

I will go to my grave saying 7 degrees is wrong...it's too much for a street driver. This stuff started long ago with some magazine article and spreads like fungus... Too much caster causes more steering effort.


as far as needing PS....

I just got this 40 that has not been driven or greased since 1962. Then I put in the very heavy early Olds Rocket engine. I got it running a few days ago in the shop and jumped in to get it outside near the water hose... You would think I would be so focused on overheating that I would not have had time to notice how easy it steered as I got outside. Very light and smooth. As soon as I got it parked I told my buddy "you got to feel the steering in this thing". I had rough checked the caster before the motor was in, but I need to recheck it with the rake it has now with the weight.

If you tried some of the poor quality repro Vega boxes, you would not even think of using one.

I plan on the old time greased leaf springs with the wrap, you can't see them anyways. Yes they did have that on Fords; I have a can of Ford script leaf spring grease

 

Just an opinion, but I would trade a bit more steering effort for stability at 80 or 85 out on the highway any day. Like I said, just my opinion.

 

Can't. Stop. Laughing. :lol:

-Dave

 

I don't have years of rod building experience to draw on but a little bit of experience from my modified that has been on the road for a couple of years. I built it with way too much caster in the front axle. About 14 degrees. It just worked out that way and while I was building it I didn't have the experience to just stop and make it right.

It drove very well. I would say it was a little heavy to steer but not uncomfortable. I have it apart at the moment and have managed to bring it back to about 8 degrees. I am expecting much less steering effort but I must say I did enjoy how easy the car was to drive in a straight line on the highway. I can't imagine needing to go less than 7 deg but can't say I've tried it.

 

fuckin' NEWB

IFS on a model A?!??!!??!?
On a traditional hot rod message board...??? REALLY???

GO SIT IN THE CORNER !!!

 

Please don't put a Mustang II front suspension under a Model A... It's just plain wrong!!!

I've found it best to use genuine '48 or older parts...

 

I've got a 4" dropped super bell axel with super slide spring and 4 bar, not the most traditional, but I drive it at highway speeds all the time and it is rock solid and very stable. I put a MII under my 40 Chevy PU and it was OK but never, never, ever would I put one under a Model A. It's just not right, and that's comming from a guy with a fiberglass 29 Roadster. Try to maintain the traditional theme for your car, it will be a much nicer car in the end.

 

You gotta be jokin',I would guess that most Model A's being built on the hamb have a axle under the front,,it is still the best looking and they are safe. HRP

 

I saw a S10 IFS on a fenderless model A coupe once before, after seeing it I was sick for days, in other words pleaseee dont do it, plenty of us on here will be willing to share some know how to help prevent such a thing from happening

 

Thanks for the replies. Most were helpful or funny. Some were just ignorant. But that's to be expected. I have driven old king pin front ends before and they were a chore to keep going straight on a bumpy road and I know a guy who sold his t bucket because it was a hairy ride. But I guess any front end would be that way if it wasn't setup right or maintained. The truck in my avatar is a 'street rod' I guess, I've got a Heidt super ride IFS in it and it handles like a new sports car and I really like the look too. But with the car I want to be tradional. I'll be doing lots of research on how to setup a suicide front end. Thanks

 

Exactly, as was shown in the documentary Animal House.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8lT1o0sDwI

 

I've had a Mustang II in a 50 Merc...It drove like crap...it was so twitchy going into a curve it was almost scary and I've drove race cars off and on my entire life.....every one I've ever driven drive the same....I WOULDN'T HAVE ONE IN A WHEEL BARRELL............

 

Gotta agree. Mustang II in a full-fendered Model A requires that the front fenders and splash apron be "bubbled" to clear the upper a-arms and steering rack. If you're running fenderless, the exposed a-arms look unattractive.

As far as I-beam-type suspension being loose and unsafe: every big rig in the US runs I-beams axles for literally millions of trouble-free miles. If they ever do get sloppy, it's simply time for some maintenance, ie king pin bushings and tie rod ends.

 

Ha ha, that's hilarious! What is with S10 frames under everything? Did someone publish a "how-to" article in the Hillbilly Gazette?