A rant about rustoleum paint

I painted the rear with it and radius rods ,Its just too soft of a paint ,Scratches real easy ,Next time I wont use it...I figure Id warn you about it .Live and learn

 

I brushed half a gallon on my truck, it looks great from 50 ft.

But it does take a long time to dry.

 

I've had decent luck with it but I always use multiple layers and give lots of dry time to harden. I think it works OK for spray paint.

Jay

 

Next time use lacquer thinner with the enamel paint for ch***is parts.... It dries allot faster..

Try it on a s**** piece first and see how it turns out...

 

Lacquer Thinner with enamel paint??

 

3 weeks dry time and I mixed it with acetone.....It just scratches so easy ......My airline hose even put scratches in it .I buffed them out .........It will do ,Next time after doing all the body work and prep .Ill use good auto paint///////////My rant is done ,,,,,,,,,

 

I switched to Valspar Armor bought at Tractor supply. Dries fast and hard and sheen looks better.

 

I know it doesn't work for everybody, but I've had great success with Rusoleum simply with good prep, and baking it. 120 degrees for a couple of hours. Makes a world of difference in its durability...

 

Yes Sir!!!....
Like I said.. try it on a s**** piece of steel or iron and see how it works out for ya...
I'd go with a 50/50 mix through a cheap spray gun...

 

I have a set of rims i painted with it . it all prep . my rims have now lasted 2 winters . rain salt , snow . and only one chip . I bake them at 200 for 2 hours .. when the tooth pick comes out clean your done .

 

That helps too!!!

 

Yeah, but it polishes up nice...

 

Prep was perfect 400 watsand and dried ,Prep sol .And dried ..... Maybe more drying time is needed ,,,,,

 

Lacquer thinner in acrylic enamel has been a cheap gloss for a LOT of years, It will put a great gloss initially, but gloss will only last about 6 months and then starts to dull.

A painter for Earl Schieb way back in the early 70's showed me that,.....on my truck.....
I did manage to keep it glossy, but had to wax about every month.

NOT something you don't want on the finish paint....

 

Yes, and Dupont hardener, good for low buck floorboards and ch***is.

 

Some use hardner in it also.

 

You didn't say how you prepped it but it sounds like whatever you used to clean off the rear prior to painting is reacting with the paint.I've used Rust-O-Leum for years as a base for wooden outdoor signs and the only problems I ever had was with plywood that wasn't fully dried.
Did you use rattle cans or buy it by the quart and spray(or brush)it? I don't know how compatible acetone is with it but when I paint I try and use compatible(read that same maker)materials.
One other thing that may be happening:When I painted sign boards I would always base them with either Rust-O-Leum primer or Kilz oil-base primer.Let them set for a day and then apply the Rust-O-Leum with a sponge roller.The signs were usually laid flat on saw horses and I would have a problem with the paint drying.Learned that the solvents would out-gas vertically and then fall back onto the surface keeping the paint from drying.Using an electric fan blowing across the surface dissipated the solvents quickly.
This may be what is happening on your rear axle and radius rods.Just a thought.

 

i've only used it for areas that are unseen like inside a roof panel or under the body on my dodge a100. it's just not durable enough for primer all over to me. it's great for lawn furniture, mail boxes, boot s****ers, and hose reels and weather vanes though!

 

I painted my daily driver with it. 3 quarts flat black and one quart gloss. It came out with a nice satin sheen. But it did take all summer in the sun to get really "durable" hard. I thinned mine with dupont 3812 reducer.

 

Hey,

To compare "Rustoleum'' with real automotive paint is to compare apples to dirtclods!

lets see, $10 dollar a quart material to $100+ a quart material, and you expect the same performance?

You can use hardner with the alkyd enamels to improve flow, drying & colour holdout, but even with the addition of the hardner, your talking about a paint technology that was "gettin' long in the tooth'' when the Flathead V8 Ford came out!

You can use acetone or lacquer thinner in an alkyd enamel to speed drying & flow, but it comes with a pricetag....................the addition of acetone or ketone to an alkyd finish will attack the resin binders in the paint, and cause it to fail, well before it normaly would. The "binder'' in paint is what holds the pigment, the colour, on to the painted surface.

Always protect yourself no matter what type of paint product you're using!

" Humpty Dumpty was pushed "

 

Rust-o-leum says to use acetone to thin it for spraying. However, you are correct. Compared to modern paint technology, its damn near prehistoric. I used a brontosaurus bone to stir mine. and strained it through some leaves.

 

useing alkyd enamel i usually use acrilic enamel reducer and some hardner seems ok TO ME . I rember in the late 60s and early 70;s that all that was used to repaint cars at least when I did it a lot of the acrylics caused problems then such as Ditzler Delstar got tired of that quick

I used to do a complete car for $65 now a gallon of acrylic reducer costs that

 

Hahahahahaha...

 

I use 30% laquer thinner. Not the greatest but i'm not complaining.

 

I just picked up a gallon of Tractor Supply Valspar green paint. Figured I'd use it to spray on my '33 truck beater. Any tricks to thinning it/hardener? Should I follow the same suggestions as the Rustoleum paint methods mentioned here already?

 

I used Rustoleum Satin on the Gaylord lid on my 53F100 about 4 years ago. Rolled on with a short nap paint roller. The lid came in a light grey primer that just looked bad, my intention was [still is] to cover it with tonneau material at some time in the future, but wanted something for a short time. Still looks as good today as 4 years ago. Now it does not set out in the weather but it has been driven quite a bit in all kinds of weather. Plus people are continously leaving finger swipes in any dust on it to see what it is.

 

"Vansickle" brand -available at a lot of farm stores is a much better product......
It also is an OIL based paint like Rustoleum.
I use both for inside of body or ch***is paint such as #7777satin black.
I usually thin at 20%Laquer thinner works better than Naptha or acetone even tho that is recomended by manufacturer... it IS soft for about 48 hrs then gradually gets good and hard in the end..... no subs***ute for car paint tho!!

 

We've had really good luck with the Bill Hirsch products.

The "Miracle Paint" is great on rusty surfaces. It's water thin so it flows into all the little pits and tight spot unlike rustoleum.

The "ch***is black" is a nice semi-gloss and dries hard as a rock.

They're all single component paints so they're simple enough that a monkey like me gets good results.

Shawn

 

I wounder if it's still made the same as it was in the 50's,seem to work great back then.

 

Hey Voodoo,

Valspar is the parent company for HOK (House Of Color), and is not a bad value, paint wise. It's too bad I can no longer buy it in gallons in " The Peoples Republic of Kalifornia "

You can use the forementioned methods, but I'd not use any more than 25% reduction with any solvent with an alkyd product. Be sure to use a well fitting mask, and no, ''***ty cups'' or wet rags arn't spray masks, & e****ally if you go with a hardner

" Life ain't no Disney movie "