Sorry, guess I misunderstood. Did you try adjusting the balance? More time in electrode negative (higher number on the dial) will give greater penetration if that's what you're after.
Its all good man but yeah I'm runnin a transformer. Use white tungsten, tried green, same thing happend. It's not the penetration, thats fine, just dont have as much control over the arc as I would like. I need an invertor and a sharp 2% tungsten. Being able to pin point the arc to where it needs to be would give much better control over the puddle. And as you can see, the "engineers" dont provide me with nice joints to weld And I just like to complain haha
I just got in a Miller Diversion 180 this morning. Man do I suck at TIG welding! I'm a MIG welder by profession, but have never TIGed in my life. I can make my MIG welds look like some of the posts here, but my current TIG skills look like shit. I only have about 45minutes logged so far, but so far i've had to grind my tungsten to about half length. I am use to being able to rest the nozzle of my MIG gun on what i'm welding, needless to say I keep stabbing my torch. I'm still trying to figure out if I am better left or right handed. All I can say is "I can only get better from this point." Im gonna go throw in the Miller "free" instructional DVD now, I may learn a little somethin'
Go left handed and right handed. I'm predominantly righty, but it's good to be able to go both ways. I still forget not to set my helmet on hot metal.
Definitley try using both hands, not only that but always try moving your whole arm with the bead rather than just your wrist. Helps keep proper torch angle and if ya learn that from the get go it will save your ass many a times 3/16 Aluminum?
321 stainless I did for a turbo system. Silicon Bronze on the flange. 304 stainless channel. I don't use the pulse feature and I'm getting old, so my aluminum is not as good as it used to be. Row of dimes and then someone throws in a nickel!!
I use silicon bronze a lot on my sculptures, it's so versatile. More of an "electric braze" than a weld, I dig it 'cuz I can join dissimilar metals and weld on zinc coated nuts/bolts without it popping(the base metal doesn't get hot enough to). Plus I dig the color contrast. Metal Elephant Sculpture by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr Berzerker, Robot Sculpture by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr A couple tiny welds on the latest piece: Berzerker, Robot Sculpture by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr Berzerker, Robot Sculpture by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr Berzerker, Robot Sculpture by Brown Dog Welding, on Flickr
Those are super cool sculptures!! Love the last one. I use silicone bronze on the outside of the flanges for a little support that will give. Stainless headers move around a ton when hot and anything else would crack. I do weld the inside with 321.
Thanks man. Yeah, That was what I was guessing you were doing, looks great. Very cool. Such a slick rod for different applications.
for those that may be interested..................... i am currently writing a series of articles for a magazine that is off subject for this web site, but the article is something that is very important to this topic. the magazine is called RATROD MAGAZINE and their website is www.ratrodmagazine.com the article is called THE C.L.A.M.S. of WELDING. it is a very informative and educational piece that is the basic of any and all welding procedures. if it is read and anyone wants to critique it feel free to do so.
Well I'm glad that someone is willing to help those guys out Edit: Would you run into problems with the bronze filler if you were to hang a turbo off it?
Wanted to tig this, but whether it was the zinc in the strut tower or junk trapped between the stamped sheet metal it just kept blowing out my tungsten. It was at a buddy's shop, and he had a little Lincoln SP-100 in the corner, a 110 wire welder. So I asked him if that machine worked, and he said "sure" So I migged it. Not bad for a little 110 welder. Some more random walking the cup welds.
Yes. Turbo's need to be supported. Never let it hang off the end of a header. Cast manifolds are okay because they are beefier. I use support rods with heim joints on either end to carry the weight of the turbo on a header and allow expansion/movement. Silicone bronze is only added to the outside of the flange. The flange is thick and the tube is thin. The expansion difference would crack the tube at the flange if welded on the inside and outside. Weld the inside and silicone bronze or nothing on the outside. Craig
That whole thing would be better discussed in another thread, lest this becomes another one of "those" threads.
I just welded a cats ass to a glass door knob .couldn't get photo .cat ran away.sorry I couldn' resist.......
Seriously, you guys need to shut up or take it to PMs. Everyone who has ever welded knows they are the best ever. Nobody cares.
Not me. I know I suck at it. Sure do like seeing other's work and reading their tips. Sure don't GAS about CLAMS though. It was interesting once, and tiresome at this point.
A wise man once said " men who do things that count, never stop to count them"... Lets just keep posting the great weld PICS.
Jdustu, I played with silicone bronze a little. It was real grainy, not smooth like yours. What was I doing wrong? And thanks for all the help, you've let me know just how much I really don't know about welding. I mean that in a good way.
It can be kinda tricky. You "weld" it kind of cool, it's actually more of a braze. Too hot and it cracks, too cool and it doesn't flow at all. You just gotta play with it to find a sweet spot.
Some amazing work guys... on the few occasions I've tried to weld it just ends up looking like the thing has been struck by lightning or armour piercing rounds...repeatedly