Sparkplug didnt look good when pulled out, need help

X2 on the rod sideplay - they are supposed to have movement. The oiling system is low-pressure, if you do not have movement the rod brearings are too tight and will not allow the oil picked-up by the 'dippers' to get into the bearings. The rod bearings are ADJUSTABLE with shims under the rod caps; best way to keep correct clearance is to use 'Plastigage', alternative is to remove shims until rod does not move, then add shim(s) until it does move. If it only needs one more shim to make it loose enough it it should be added to one side only - but I forget which side it is. If you want more info I can scan the Chevy Shop Manual or my old Motors Manual

PM me

I learned this the hard way in 1961

 

Ok I feel alittle better now but I also come paired the movement from the 216 to my 235 motor babbit and there no movement.

Ok Ill check the motor again for anything that might not look right because like I said when the motor was all together and when I was compression testing it I would hear a knida thump/knock in the lower end. Unless the valves that werent closing right were making that sound?

Also while I have it open is there a way to test the oil pump to make sure its working right?

 

Sounds like you are pretty new at this. So I think you should get some else involved that might come over and guide you through this. Good teachable moment if you are willing to learn and it looks like you are. Anyone live in his areas?
J

 

Looks like a Du Pont rebuild. I wouldn't condemn it yet. When an engine sits inactive, there are always some valves open. Damp air causes rust to form and valves don't seat tightly. Since you have the head off, you could lap the valves.

 

I have a friend that is a mechanic but I don't know if all motors are all the same to him. I knew a guy that could have helped me but he passed a few your back.

I'm willing to learn , its all nuts and bolts to me and I'm a mechanically inclined to do this just need a little guidance on what to look for.


I wish there was book or video that use to go over and not just the repair manuals. But youtube has enlightened me some.

Maybe this motor is fine and just needs lapping, well this isnt over yet.

 

Yea the motor was in Santa maria Ca and thats a town by the coast.

Not giving up yet like I said it showed good compression on the 4 cylinders and then the 5 when i added oil to the cylinder , just the thump/knock had me worried.

The motor I had taken out on my 41 was out of a 49 , it smoked a little but it didnt make that sound when cranked or ran so when turnning this other motor over I didnt like what it sound like mind you that the 49 motor hasnt ran since 1985.

I didnt get the other motor running because after the low compression test I knew there was something wrong.

 

You guys and your fancy OHV inlines...LOL...I like my mopar flahead 6!
Why not pull the rod caps off and pull each piston out after marking them for "cylinder number and forward direction" to check for wrist pins, stuck rings, skirt issues{if any} and the like...you'd just need a ring compressor to reinstall them if all is ok....removing them would give you a good idea of how the crank rod journals look too...maybe you'd want to replace the timing chain while your at it too. Just a thought....
Bakers CA?...I got a 70 cougar from there 10 years ago...great sheet metal, lousy dash, paint and interior from the heat!

 

Yea, thats my next step I had in mind and yes Bakersfield Ca is a hot place, bad for interriors but good slow rusting parts.

 

Here's the connecting rod adjustment proceedure
Those old stovebolts are pretty bullet-proof, a good engine to learn on.
Get a manual if you can, they will walk you through everything, and they got pictures too!!!

I didn't take note of what you're going to put it in, but that engine has the truck bellhousing on it.

Also, a couple of posts ago someone mentioned checking the timing chain - 216's and 235's dont't have a chain, they are a gear dive. Originally the cam gear was 'fiber', which will shear from the cam if old or the rocker shafts get 'gunked-up'. All aluminum replacement gears are available.

 

I'd like to recant part of my last post to resay "check the timing setup whether it be chain or gears"...how's that?
{darn fancy bowtie OHV inlines gotta be different, don't they?-LOL}

 

Thanks for the info.


I knew he didnt know that the motors did not use timming chains.



Anyway I (think) I found where that thumping sound might have came from.

Is the crank suppose to be able slide front to back because mine will about a good 1/8 or a little more.

heres a video of it.

 

ttt

 

The #3 crankshaft bearing is also the 'thrust bearing', it absorbs the forward thrust when the clutch is disengaged. Specifications are .003 to .009 of end play; you are showing a lot more than that - -

The crank bearings are standard-type insert bearings, easy to replace just verify that the journals have not been ground under-size.

 

So upon me cranking the motor over, would the crank move in and out to give that kinda thump sound? Or only when the clutch is engaged?

 

I don't think so, unless the flywheel isn't sitting flat on the crankshaft. When the engine is running you won't hear that loose thrust bearing when engaging/dis-engaging the clutch. Remember, thrust is only put on the thrust bearing when dis-engaging the clutch (pushing the clutch pedal in)

 

Ok so if you dont think the end play didnt make the noise could the movment make anything go bad like the wrist pins, because when I was hand cranking the motor I heard some noise somewhere between pistons 1, 3&4 but wasnt sure the sound was normal or comming the oil pump and distrubtor ,if it make any.


Heres a video of that.

 

ttt

 

Isolate the "knock". Take the oil pump off, rotate the engine, see if the knock remains. Do the same for the distributor. If the knock remains, have an assistant rotate the engine while you place a long screwdriver or stethoscope on rod caps, rods, and pistons to see if you can find the slop. If you can't, next step would be to remove one rod/piston assembly at a time, rotate, until you find the offending assembly. You will have more confidence in your diagnosis if you isolate the knock, rather than pulling it all apart and hoping you find it among all 6 assemblies.

 

Hard to diagnose via a video, but that does sound strange; don't think it is a piston pin (common on those engines, but not usually catastrophic).

'spitbucket' (....awful name...) has the right idea, with the engine on the floor you should be able to find what's making that noise.

 

Ive pull the oil pump and diss off , hand cranked it again and the noise was still there.

I narrowed it down to the no. 3 piston. I flipped the motor right side up and when hand cranking it I put pressure on the piston with a wood Handel and the little knock stopped. So I think there is something wrong there.

This motor isn't worth putting anymore time into, again I don't think the previous owner is gonna come for it , with the compression reading as good as it was, its still worth fixing but then maybe not.
You know if do this , you might as well do that.


And yea ( spitbucket ) is a name that put a kinda vision in you head but I'm sure he's a cool dude. LOL

 

As long as you're that deep into it, why not throw some parts at it and rebuild it yourself? Rings, bearings, valve job and slap it together. It would be an improvement over what you have, let you salvage what $$ you already have into it and a great learning experience. I know its just a 216...but if you get it running again you could sell it and recoup some of your money back. Otherwise its just a lot of iron sitting in your garage. Just my .02. I wish you luck whatever you decide though.

 

I have always found it difficult to come up with a "handle" I was comfortable with. As a somewhat enthusiastic boxing fan, I became aware of Mohammud Ali's corner men. Look who is in the corner: Ali the boxer, (main guy), Dundee (the trainer) a cut man, and in Ali's case a guy named Bundini Brown. Brown's main function was to be in charge of the spitbucket. Brown was low man on the totem pole, but he still was part of a world champion's team. Anywhere he went in the boxing world, he was "inside the ropes", part of the real deal. I think I can be compared somewhat accurately to Brown. I have never and will never win a Riddler award, but have had a car and truck in Autorama and took a second place in my class. I am on the pit crew of a Bonneville car. Spend most of my time shagging parts, making lunch, sweeping off the tarp. But my name is in the program book. Was an E5 in the Army, but was not an NCO, Involved in local politics, but will never hold an office. There are millions of Bundini Brown's in the world and I am one of them. "Cool dude"-no. More happy and satisfied than anyone has a right to be-absolutely. Hope this puts a better perspective on "Spitbucket".

 

I would like to do a rebuild my self, yea this is a learnning experance that dont look too hard once Ive opened it and seen for myself , I more or less got it tore down.

But I need to stack cash some to do the job now.

 

I thought it was more like a spittoon that was you screen name referred to.

 

1950ed: I guess that is the most logical interpretation of my screen name. (I have always attempted to be a rational , but realize I have a ways to go.) I better quit posting this off topic stuff. I don't want to hijack this very interesting thread.

 

don't worry about that, I think its about as far as its gonna get unless I show a full rebuild on top of it.

And that's gonna be a slow process after looking at the rebuild kit prices.

 

OK - you know which piston it is; wrist pin or rod bearing seems to be the only choice.

Pull the rod cap and look at the bearing, it might be able to be tightened. If not, pull the piston out and look at it.

Time is cheap, take a look; won't cost much to put it back together other than a gasket set.

 

yea why not do it.

 

I may have missed it, but what year 216 is this? As long as its not a babbit motor you should get off on the cheap.

 

Well, I've read the whole thread and I think ya got it narrowed down, and are there except for a few bucks and a couple of hours. Forge on, Brave lad! Make it go.
As for the Spitbucket "hijack", I'll bet Bundini dosent slur his "S's" or hear bells.
Still at the center of the action though. Good Call!