Sparkplug didnt look good when pulled out, need help

Yea its a (babbit) I didnt know Chevy made high pressure 216's and its out of a 51 according to the # on the block.

 

Ok update.........

I went ahead and pulled the # 3 piston off and this is what I seen, the wrist pin was tight as in no sloppy play, but the rod bearing looked kinda so so .

here's some pictures.

AND IGNOR MY DRIED HANDS I WORK WITH CEMENT
















and is this position ok with the 2 colors shown on it?

 

I'll be darned, inserts.

The two colors don't particularly bother me, are there any scratches on the lighter colored areas?

Are the rings free in their grooves?

I don't like the looks of the insert itself (dents on the inside), or the rod (looks like grooves in the bore, did the bearing spin?), how does the journal on the crank look?

 

This is going to be a dumb question, but if this is from cylinder number 3, what is that number 2 stamped on the end if the rod bolt?


Don

 

x2!

 

Frankly if it was my engine, and otherwise ran and looked ok, I might try to roll in new rod and main bearings and give it a run.... but I am lucky that way...

 

I seen that too , but the piston rods have numbers 1-6 stamped on them.

 

The journal looked good ( i think) it looked nice and shinnie and smooth with no scratiches.

The rod bearring had a stamp 030 on it.

 

Did those rods have dippers on the end??? If that is a 216 and you have insert bearings it is not a "babbit" motor. Somebody has converted it. A babbit rod has the bearing material poured permanently into the rod. Does the crank journal have an oil hole drilled in it??

"Yea its a (babbit) I didnt know Chevy made high pressure 216's and its out of a 51 according to the # on the block."

There were no factory made insert 216s that I ever saw or heard of.

 

Oh, then the number two on there must mean something else than cylinder location.

Don

 

If somebody has machined the rods to accept inserts the original need for numbers on the rods is gone, is it not??

 

3X on the inserts!!!??

The bearing looks good, but the discoloring on the cap doesn't look right - wish I could see it in person

The .030 on the insert says the crank's been ground.

As somebody else said, how does the crank journal look?

Get some Plastigage and check the rod clearances.

I'm going to dig into my old books and see what I can find out about converting babbits to inserts

 

The crank being ground (if they are in fact 216 rods still) could be the rods weren't put back in order, or maybe they are from a different engine.

I seem to recall reading somewhere about dipper 235s with inserts, but I thought they had larger journals.

It may be that the bearings are from another engine, so the 30 under, may just be to make them fit.

 

If I were you the first thing I would do is fix that thrust problem. The amount of movement you have front to back is entirely too much and should be corrected. Take #3 main cap off and see what it looks like.

If you can find a part number stamped on the back of that bearing I can tell you what it is for and that will clear up some mystery about the inserts.

Also, a shiny crankshaft is not necessarily in good shape. I have seen worn cranks look real nice, just not the right size.

To me the bearings look old. there's been trash in the oil at one point. It almost looks as if the bearing is flaking which is usually caused by long term fatigue, but too much clearance can cause contribute to it.

 

Ok guys no progress to report, I was gonna plastigauge it but my torque wrench was bad. Its a Craftsmen , so I though I could just return it get an other one like its always been said with there tools. ( NO ) it only if its under a year old and I have the recite.

Mine is about 10 years old, I asked how much another like mine and they said about 100 buck, so you mean I have a 100 dollar POS that isn't worth anything more than scrap? Man i didn't want to chance one from Harbor Freight so I called a buddy and he has one that I'm picking up from him tomorrow.

 

Ill check the #3 main cap, what should I look for?

 

Look for wear on the flanges on the sides of the bearing. Does the engine have oil dippers on the crank end of the connecting rod???

 

According to the pictures he's posted, yes.

 

I just checked my shop manual - it says dipper 235's were babbit, not inserts.

I think it's been converted to inserts at some time in its life.

 

I missed that one. Too much of a hurry I guess. It looks like they could be there but my glasses are running down!!!

That seems to be the case. I was wondering if the crank had been drilled. If somebody has done that & they used the old rod caps with the hole in them the oil pressure is not going to be too great. Low oil pressure could account for the thrust bearing chewing up, if indeed it is. Something is providing way too much endplay if he has 1/8 inch.

 

Just thinking out loud here - I wonder if somehow that thust bearing got installed incorrectly; I don't remember if you can put it in backwards or in the wrong journal.

 

No there isn't any hole in the journal as for 1/8 end play that was just a guess but I do have a gauge that has a magnetic base that measures depth, Ill try it and post a pic later when I get to the shop to tinker around later.

Also it does a metal scoop things that looks to scoop up oil into the crank.

 

OK, thanks for the answer. It looks like somebody has modified it for inserts without going the whole full pressure route. Interesting. I have wondered about doing that.

I think somebody mentioned that threre should be only a few thousandths end play.

The metal scoop things dip oil out of those channels in the pan and force it up through the hole in the rod cap to oil the rod bearing.

 

Ok heres an update,

I just the plastigauge and came up with,



002 at 40 pounds on the tork wrench, the book reads 35-45 Lbs.Ft.

I ust the green plastigauge

I also checked the other rod caps at 40 Lbs.Ft. on the tork wrench and they were higher, so I moved the Lbs.Ft. up by 5 untill they clicked. They clicked at 60 Lbs.Ft. I dont knoe that if they are higher now that they have bearrings in them now.

So when I bumped the end cap 20 more Lbs.Ft. to match the others the plastigauge squashed more and is like a between size.





Also here a video of the end play , I have this gauge I dont know if it is the right one to use but might give some kinda idea of movment. It on 0 and moves to 60 and just over.

 

that is WAY too much endplay. I wouldn't be surprised if that was making noise while it was running.

 

+

Never got to fire it up, just heard it when cranking it over while checking the compression.

 

It's still way to much. Stop fooling around and hoping for Divine intervention and pull it apart for a rebuild.

 

Yea I know , just wanted to get all the ---would of -could of- should of - out of the way.

And now that the motor has been redone at one time, I hope its cheaper to redo it again.

A rebuild is the EZ way out but I also I like the info and knowledge that is post up here for my motor, Ive learned more about what to look for and ran to youtube to help understand.

 

ttt

 

Oh my, that's ALOT (too much) endplay.