Projects My '26 Roadster / Vintage photo search

Interesting. The oil-filter wrench is a great example. So when the guys on MTFCA complain about the repos not working in reverse and wanting only to get originals, that's more like a case of selective memory?

-Dave

 

That may be because of the linings the repos come with...they are awful. I wore mine out in less then a year....I mean completely gone on both sides:


...so I had mine relined with modern industrial oil/water resistant linings and they are "night and day" better....but they still don't stop well at all in reverse. Moving forward they bring that roadster to a screeching halt "right now".

The design of the repos Vs. the originals is the same from the ones I've seen.

Lets put it this way...there IS a reason they went away from that design lol!

 

Heh, the same can probably be said for virtually any part on an old car. You mentioned possibly fitting Rockies to the front. Any thought of mounting them in reverse, to give better hill holding, etc?

-Dave

 

I have, but then it wouldn't work when your moving forward very well.

Hill holding isn't the problem, its stopping the car when moving in reverse or down a hill. If I am backing my car up and I step on the brakes...it just doesn't stop.

When I do tackle adding a set up front, the band assemblies would need to be mounted upside down and flipped left to right so that the action of the rear units would be achieved up front for maximum stopping power....the main point after all, is stopping the car when moving WHEN I want to.

 

One of the things I've heard is that the pivot point on the originals was at the 12'oclock position on the rotor. The new "Repop" ones have the pivot at the 9'oclock. This improves the forward stopping but doesn't stop going backward as well.
I've not heard that either one was good for stopping when going backwards... Just that the originals were better. That could also be due to the bands used as well.

Clayton,
What bands did you put on (manufacture or part number would be great) Might as well start with the upgraded linings

Thanks again!
Bruce

 

Both the originals and the repos are built and function the same. There pivots are both in the same location: (looking at the drum assembly with the wheel off ) The brake actuator axle point at 3 O'clock and the and the band support points at 7 and 11 O'clock.

An original set:


A new set:

 

Clayton, Thanks for the positive words. Hope to make a cool rod that gets some positive words if others like it. Me I just want to cruise in my own design . . .

Dave

 

I will have to look through my notes, or get in contact with the friction company that relined them.....was a long time ago

* Brief Update*- Got my new ball joint ends yesterday, so I can finally get the frame mounts for the wishbones...so I should have them done and mounted up this weekend.

 

I think you mean tie-rod ends.

-Dave

 

Here's the pics of my service brake bellcrank. I just shortened the piece 4" (2" per side) and made mounts to weld to the outside of the frame rail. Mounting it under the rail would have caused interference with the body.

This is the frame before paint


the mountfrom the top


From the bottom



Nothing earth shaking but it worked good rolling down hill,

Ron

 

That really looks like a lot of fun...

 

Sorta, I was referring to these.....



...the weld in ball studs that will be mounted to the frame plates for the Tie Rod/Wishbone ends to mount to.


Nice work Ron! that frame is looking good!

 

Clayton ... When you use those stud balls for your wishbone, mount them to a plate with a little twist in it so the ball is at a 90 degree angle to the bone. They wear real quick if there is too much of an angle.

Ron

 

That is an excellent point Ron. I was just thinking about that this afternoon, don't have a design yet, but I'm working on it

 

Clayton, Roadster is coming along great ! Will be looking forward to your next update.

Dave

 

love the roadster...got me thinkin to build one after i get my model A done

 

Thank you kindly! Boy!....maybe I AM starting something!

*UPDATE*
Frame mount plates for the split wishbones

Put in a little time on Saturday and got the frame mount plates for the split wishbones made up and some clean up work done on the new shackle mounts from the previous week. Got all the welding and fab work done, but didn't get them finished up or mounted....next weeks project









More to come!
​

​

 

bump...

 

Are you going to weld those to the frame rail or bolt them?

Ron

 

Was thinking of doing both. Bolting them to the frame and adding a few welds "Just in case"

What do you recommend?

 

If you're not going to trim them down I would bolt them. A small boxing plate or a gusset would help right about where the stud lines up to the rail. JMO

Where you planning on reworking the steering bix mount too?

Ron

 

I am planning to cut them down...just didn't get that far Saturday. I want to shape the tops a little more for a more period look. I will both bolt and weld the plates on...just in case the weld should fail, they are bolted.

Both brackets do have horizontal plates that flush up the underside of the frame rail and 3/8" plate gussets that tie them to the ball stud tabs.

It is way over built and is not gonna fold.

 

Clayton, May use some of your ideas on my Modified - the "Heinz 57 Special" Hope to do this one on my own with minimal help.
Looking forward to seeing your "T" coming back to life. It is truly a premier example of a early "T" Gow Job !

Dave

 

Rivets.

Nah, only joking.

 

I'm not going to move the steering box mounts anywhere, they have to stay where they are other wise the wheel would be under the dash.

Gonna stretch the drag link.

 

Go for it! Glad to see that I am becoming a contributing member of the H.A.M.B.

...A "truly a premier example of a early "T" Gow Job"....boy, I sure hope this new re-build lives up to THAT reputation

Funny you should mention Rivets...actually considered using them

..just don't have the tools and enough knowledge about them to try it, plus I doubt whoever built a car like this back then would have readily had access to rivet equipment, so everything would have been bolted together.

 

Clayton I have some rivet and Chris Thompson out there has experience putting them in....

 

1...2...3.... Rivet

1)Heat Rivet with torch till red hot
2)slip small end in hole
3)Smack little end with concave punch till it's bigger then the hole is.

Done

(note: do steps 2 and 3 before the rivet stops glowing.... and don't touch it with you fingers )

 

Well, I guess we could experiment around with riveting them instead of bolting. I do know how the process works...just never done it ...just get to learn something new.

The only issue is, if I go that route...I would have to re-do the plates again.

The reason I say this is, to be authentic...they should have been heated and twisted rather then cut and welded with that sharp ledge that I built:


...See!? look what your doing to me!

Most likely won't...will just round the top off for a more period look and rivet the thing in place.

 

Mmmmm, rivets! They would look good on this fantastic machine!

I love the drawings as well.