1956 Chrysler: Chirping Sound in Engine

I've got an issue with my 1956 Chrysler's 331 Poly. It's chirping.

About two weeks ago, I was out driving around with my kids. I had just got the thing going, and I foolishly took it out for a pleasure cruise with a broken temperature gauge. It was already 107° outside. I noticed a slight tick in the engine, and turned back for home. By the time I got there, it was sounding bad.
I shut her down in the garage and let it cool off. The radiator had a pin-hole leak I didn't notice and was almost empty. The oil was down to only one quart.
At the time, I knew I should have shut it down the moment I noticed the ticking. But, I had my kids with me, and in this heat, it was them or the car.

I changed the oil today, added Marvel Mystery Oil and Lucas Oil Stabilizer.
It took a little bit, but I finally got the engine to fire, but now it's "chirping". It's not a belt, but sounds as if it's coming from the passenger's side of the engine.
I've never spun a bearing before, so I'm not sure if that's what it sounds like. It will stop after it warms up at an idle, but as soon as I increase the throttle, it starts "chirping" again. I've posted two videos below the photo. The first is when the chirp sound came back after letting it warm up, and the second is the engine getting more gas.




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr6wsgJFHIA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGJre5wAJ3w

Any suggestions or ideas are appreciated.

 

'Chirping' sounds like it's a dry rocker arm. Pull the valve cover and look at all the rockers...you will see if there's a dry one. (color) IT will be necessary to remove the rocker shaft (if dry) and unclog the oil holes. (stiff wire down the hole in the head, then long pipe cleaner)
Intermittent squirting of laquer thinner and compressed air down the hole may unclog it.
Also check the rocker stand that is bored for oil, rocker shaft should be dismantled and cleaned, check for galling of shaft and rockers.
Inspect the push rods: they are solid and hardened, but will wear on the ends.

 

Thank you! I will start there. Also, I'm sorry about the quality of the videos and my goofy friend. At the time, we weren't planning on posting the videos.

 

Exactly what I was thinking^^

 

Thanks for taking a look, again I appreciate it!

 

Head gasket ??
I have had Harley motors do that, but will usually stop when warmed up...
May be worth a check..
Good luck.
Cheers...........

 

If you had only 1 qt in the pan you may have all sorts of things squeeking from running out of oil. Was the oil determined to be 1 qt imediately, or did the oil up in the engine get a chance to run back into the pan? You probably should pull it & go through all the bearings. Something will probably quit soon.

 

As soon as I shut down the engine, I checked the oil and it was down to one quart. I let it cool down and checked it that evening after the oil had settled. It had made a difference, but not very much. I added a quart I had in my garage, and made sure it still turned over, but I didn't start it until I changed the oil yesterday.

What came out of the drain plug was nasty black oil. I put in the new oil and got a new element filter too. It turned over a few times then fired right up. The chirping noise goes away if it's allowed to idle for a few minutes, but as soon as it's given gas it comes right back again.

I really don't want to pull the engine, but of course I will if that's what it takes. I'm certainly not driving it any where until it's fixed (and has a proper temperature gauge).

 

sounds like a teardown is in your future

 

Looks like you're right. I took the valve cover off then started it. All the valves were functioning properly with lubrication. With the cover off, I was able to hear the sound better, and it's definitively low in the engine.

I guess I just found my fall project.


Thanks for the tips!

 

Just an update, after wrestling the engine all day, I've got it plucked out.
I'll start the tear down this week.

 

Be sure to take a hard look at the cam whilst doing the inspection as they prefer to be well lubricated

You'll be pleasantly surprised at how spunky a fresh Spitfire is!

.

 

"Well there's your problem!"



I found the bad bearing. It dug into the crank pretty bad. I've certainly got a lot of work ahead of me.

 

Ouch....

.

 

oh shit! I guess that'll do it

 

Thats been failing for a time - its not a fresh failure. The bearing is worn away so its taken time/use for that to occur.

 

UUUUHHHHHUUUUGGGAAAAALLLLLYYYYY!!!!

Good thing you tore it down! is that a rod or a main? hopefully the crank can be cut enough to fix it, what does the rod or main saddle look like?

 

It's a rod bearing. The other's all looked good, but it did dig into the crank. I can't get a picture of it right now because I threw my back out last night, and now I can barely move.
(I'm really tall and have back problems).

I think the crank can be recovered. On the other hand, I know a guy who has a 331 Hemi out of a '53 New Yorker. He offered it to me for only $500.

I don't know what would be the best option here. For now, I'm not going to be able to do much until I can move better.

 

I'm 6'5" and I hear ya on the back problems - spend your life bent over to use things designed for people 5'5" tall and it will happen. Ice it and keep it moving (walking is the best) is my recommendation.

If you can get a hemi for $500, go. You're going to spend money rebuilding poly or hemi, so get what you want.

One question - is the Hemi extended bell or short bell?

 

I'm 6'5" as well, I've got six bulged disks in my spine. While working on the engine, it started to tip over, and I foolishly grabbed it. While I saved the block, I broke me!

As far as the Hemi being a extended bell or short bell, I don't know. I'll have to do some research on it. Did they have both in '53?

One of my good friends has a 318 Poly out of a '66 Coronet that runs great. He said I could have it for free, but I'm pretty sure I won't be getting that to bolt onto that old push button transmission. He's rebuilding his wrecked '66 Charger and doesn't need the engine from the Coronet.

 

The '53 is an extended bell & the crank is something like .200 longer in the back end.You need a crank fron a 54-56 301,331, or 354.The '66 318 won't bolt up to your tranny, but any S/B 727 from a 70s-80s(post 61) will bolt right up. You'd lose your parking brake on the tranny though.

 

Since your only problem is a crank repair and then the usual rebuilding issues, IMO you will be better served using the Spitfire...unless someone shows up with the necessary change over parts (to a Hemi)...
A fresh Spitfire (perhaps with just a bit warmer cam, electronic ignition and 4-bbl carb) will be pushing 300hp and 400lb-ft torque. Not a slouch.

.

 

That sounds like that way to go! However, it will be a while before I can get to that. It turns out I damaged my back severely and ended up in the E.R. last night and got pumped full of morphine.

I'll take it easy for a few weeks and then tackle the crank shaft. Thanks for the advice!

 

Hello Jon, really sorry to hear about your back issues. I have been there
as well, but not so severly. I have a complete 354 out of a 56 Chrysler
listed on the hamb parts site, if you may be considering a Hemi. The motor is as pulled and would probably need a rebuild also. I wish you well with your back issues. MickeyC

 

Now that my back issues are under control, my daughter and I tore into the engine tonight. We got the crank shaft out. We'll be getting it machined soon.




It's not a pretty sight.

 

Good to hear that you are back on your feet! Now, get busy

The damaged journal isn't so bad, should be an easy repair.

.

 

Glad your back is under control, not much you can do when it isn't, I know.

That crank should clean up okay, the one in my big block was worse. Now lets figure out why that happened - sludge and crap in the oil passages would be my bet.

 

Having back issues is no fun at all!

The oil passages are clogged with sludge and crap as are the coolant passages. Lots of rust and scale built up. I'll be cleaning those out while I wait for the crank shaft to be repaired.

The #6 piston is shot too (It's the same one that tore up the crank). The wrist pin mushroomed the metal around it, but the block is in good shape.

 

Make sure you recon the rods with new rod bolts too. Good luck with the engine and back I've been there with a disk-O-removal too!

 

Spitfires rule! Keep us posted! Looking forward to a Poly rebuild thread! And check with 73RR for any rebuild parts you may need.