Anyone with knowledge on 235 Chevy motors?

For most of you this may sound like a stupid question but I'm new to this and I'm willing to learn and do the work myself so please take it easy on me. lol.

I need help on figuring out what could be wrong with my baby.
I have a 235 straight six dual carb in my Chevy and it's running like crap.

Here's the deal -

At first I thought it was the carbs so I had them rebuilt and adjusted twice.
Then I thought it maybe the distributor, so I had that replaced.
Finally, I took it in to get diagnosed and I'm having a compression issue with #1 and #2 cylinder.
LBs comp.
#1- 30
#2- 25
#3-110
#4-130
#5-120
#6-140
Not too sure what that means, but I want to learn. The man didn't explain much to me he just wanted my money and answered no questions.

So now I need help on figuring out what can be causing this and how can I fix it. I know there can be many possibilities.
I've had a few friends look at it and help me out some what and one said to junk the motor and put in a 350, another said - "Sorry I'm a Ford guy ask a Cholo", another guy said he found me a 235 but he's not too sure what is wrong with it. I wouldn't mind upgrading but I honestly love the 235, it makes my pipes rap so sweet and I can keep up a good speed.

What would you do? I want to get my baby on the road again.

Thanks,
Stina Bombina

 

Usually when two cylinders next to each other are very low on compression, the head gasket is blown out between them.

 

Oh yeah...the how to fix it part....Take the head off, replace the gasket.

But, if the engine was a bit tired and was using oil and making noises and stuff, maybe it's time for a different engine, either a better condition used 235, or something more modern. It takes time and money and work to swap in a newer engine, but not so much to just replace the one you have with a similar one (although you have to be sure to carefully check to make sure the new one has the same mount holes on the block, same style water pump, etc).

Sure would be nice if you knew someone who knows how to work on old cars!

 

Like Squirrel said....I'd bet $$$ that a new head gasket will turn it from a four cylinder back into a six. Gotta be one of the simplest engines to replace a head gasket on; you can leave the intake and exhaust manifolds bolted to the head, if you're manly enough to lift the whole mess off as one unit. One tip,though---235s did not have head alignment dowels like most engines have, so to insure that you drop the head back onto the new gasket straight, cut the heads off a couple of 4-5 inch long bolts, loosely turn them into the head bolt holes at diagonally opposing positions, and unscrew them after the head is in place. What year is the car? Pre-'58 models lent themselves well to a quick and dirty ring job without removing the engine from the chassis.

 

...by the way, "Ford guy" or not, if he couldn't tell you that it was a blown head gasket from your description of the conditions, he doesn't know shit.

 

My '47 has a 235 in it. I'm less afraid of having motor problems than other issues that might arise when driving. (original car other than the 235). 2 days after buy the car 5 years ago I drove it 650 miles in 40 degree rainy weather.

 

What does the engine oil look like?

 

Open up the oil filler cap, does it have mayo in there?
The low compression figures would indicate a head gasket had gone (the compression is leaking itno the other gasket, thats why two are down)
easy enough to change, maybe a days work for a spanner virgin

 

you need friends who aren't, what's the word, gay. stovebolts are just like any other motor. it doesn't matter who built it, the principles are always the same.
suck, squish, bang, blow. if its not doing any one of those, that is your problem.

 

I love the 235's I have a few of them sitting around, one in my car and one being rebuilt. That is the only engine I will ever use. I love them that much.

I agree with squirrel. Sounds like a blown head gasket.

If this one turns out to be junk then there are tons of them out there for cheap. I got the one I am rebuilding for a hundred bucks and it runs great!

It will cost a little more to rebuild than a small block but I think they are worth every penny. They are cool engines and will run forever!

I am no expert but message me if you have any questions.

 

Have you been using unleaded fuel? If your motor has solid lifters the valves may have eaten their way into the head and so the valve lash has gone to zero on those 2 cylinders so the exhaust valve won't close all the way. My 235 had a miss at idle. Compression check showed low compression in 1 cylinder. It was a tight valve. A valve adjustment would be quick and easy. If it's got hydraulic lifters, adjustment is a little more difficult. If it's a head gasket, it'll idle like crap.

Ford guy living with Chevy's

 

Since you already had the carbs rebuilt and have the dual intake etc. try the head gasket. Its not that much $ (probably like $40 for a copper one) and I think you can even order it from kragen or autozone, it just takes a couple of days. Its not hard at all, just kind of heavy once you lift it out (probably like 60lbs so find a friend so you dont drop it on your paint job)

pm me and I will fax you the order of how you tighten the head bolts, so you dont warp the head or anything.

Check the valves like other people have said, maybe those 2 are bent or not sealing right? If you want the number to a place that rebuilds heads in LA I will let you know. I think they charged me like $200 a year and a half ago.

Good luck!

 

Keep the 235! The masses of common folk always go the small block Chevy way. Love the feel and sound of the inliner. John

 

ey 235 guy's do i need to drop my tranny to get my oil pan outta my 235 thats sittin in my 58 delray?

 

evry bit of info on this engine is wicked helpful, thnx

 

Don't forget to magnaflux the head while it's off - if it's ever been hot, chances are high it's broke. If you're lucky enough to have one of the uncracked heads, resist any temptation to do a valve grind unless you ring it (at the very least) while it's apart, otherwise it'll start gobbling oil at an alarming rate.
How's the oil pressure ? If it's over 10 lbs. hot with 10-30 in it, it's PROBABLY in decent shape .. if not, start saving $$ for some serious work. As mentioned above, you can do anything except a major overhaul with the block still in the car.

 

Yepp, sounds like the gasket, an easy fng fix. And while you have the head out, check the valves, it's a possibilty of a burnt valve too. That's not that hard to fix either. I love the stovebolts too, usually very reliable and they sounds cool.

 

one more thing to check..go buy a compression tester (they are cheap and it would have saved you a carb rebuild and a dizzy over haul !)
perform comp test on low cylinders ,sqirt some oil ($2 oil can old school lookin and plain new engine oil, a few pumps)
if the "wet reading " is higher its your rings if it stays the same its yer valves
or the blown head gasket ,which may have other symptoms like a really clean plug
a pressurised radiator, mousse in the oil etc
its not uncommon in old motors to bust a few rings when the new younger owner takes over and uses more revs ......
enjoy the journey

 

Keep the 235 - the V-8 thing is a fad. It will never catch on

 

If your 235 will now keep up a "good speed" the way it is, it'll really run good when you get it fixed. Take the time to find a good ol' fashioned service manual. The old ones had destructions to help you in a complete rebuild, including specifications for the whole mess. Do your homework first and do it yourself if you have he aptitude. There really is nothing like the feeling you get when you hear it fire off after you've been through it and know it inside and out. You can "see" it working internally in your minds eye......

 

Just curious, what year 235? I know it has nothing to do with the problem at hand, I was just wondering if it had the Babbit / splash oil, or inserts and full pressure.

 

im with squirrel on this one..not to mention its an easy find/ easy fix..and it isnt expensive to find out if this is your problem. It was kind of a common problem, it happens in other words. the indications you have with the dramatic compression difference with those two neighboring Cyl. is like a dead give away..I would be surprised if its something other than a bad head gasket.

 

I had this happen to the first 235 I had in my truck, but it was between #5 & 6. The only simptom was a pinging under load. It idled fine and would rev up in the driveway just fine. A compression test told the story.
Blowouts between 1&2 and 5&6 are fairly common, especially with the older style head gaskets that require re-torquing (and nobody bothers to do it). Not enough head bolts in those areas.

Get a Victor or Felpro gasket set that has the type of head gasket that doesn't require re-torquing. Paint it with some high solids content silver paint (like Rustoleum). I have had better luck preventing fluid weeping on the right side of the head gasket on these engines when coating them with the paint, believe it or not.

 

Ok I'm a total Newbie but after reading the threads here I think this is what is my problem. I have an 1954 Chevy Truck Service Manual but it is written for someone who works on these engines. I am a school teacher & of fare intelligence - I feel that I can do this but is there an instructions manual with more pictures?

David

 

Hey David,

Cool that you used the search function!

These enginesd are super easy to work on, if you read over that service manual a couple times then jump in I think you can figure it out. Not too much at all that hooks up to the top ends on these.

Good luck,

Scot

 

Might buy a '54 or so Motor's Auto Repair manual, but none of them are going to show it in pictures step by step. Also, a new thread asking for info is bound to get more replies, probably the next few responses will be guys who answer the original poster and don't notice they asked about their problem 4 years ago.

 

X2

The best pics I have seen for that are on Inliners.org, you might check Stovebolt.com as well.

I don't know of a printed book that will have pictures of overhauling one of these.

There is a "how to rebuild your engine" book on Amazon, used copies listed for $1.00.

Won't be specific, but might be useful if that's your concern.

If not check out http://californiabills.com/p-15-how-to-hop-up-chevrolet-gmc-engines.aspx

I don't work forthem,but I have a copy of Bill's book and Huntington's as well.

Do you already have an engine?

If not pick one that's full pressure(54 or newer, some 53s were, but not all).

Do the full flow filter conversion (tech on the Inliners forum).

Ditto on the new thread getting more responses, I wouldn't have seen this, but I was still subscribed from before.

 

The 235 is a real good motor and there are a lot of speed parts you can get for it. There is a guy in Casa grande Arizonia name Patrick. He is the best at speed equipment for your 235. He can tell you how to identify a full oil pressure 235 I built one for my 53 Chevy about 15 years ago. I have the dual carbs,howard cam, split manifold, 4 in the floor with a 355 gear in the rear. My truck does 100mph easy.It's been trouble free. Once you get it together it's a blast. Removing that head is childs play. Just remember the basics and that tip the guy said about lining the head up is very Important.

 

i had one of those when I WAS 19 YEAR OLD , keep the 6 and rember anyone can sound like a V8 your split will be real distinctive sounding

a valve job and rering and fixthe rear main and tune it and it will be a runner
just a little hard to get used to but it will come easy after while
check the rockers to be sure they are oiling
you can do this hundereds of us old farts owned these and maintained them with not a lot of real high tech tools
this is not a computer car, get a book read and find a few old mechanics and ask questions

 

Chevy "194" is what I've got and I love it!