Thanks, Bill, I appreciate that. I was just about to throw up a classified ad, but I'll hold off. -Dave
Actually, thinking about it, aren't Chevy pedals bellhousing mounted like "A" pedals? I'm pretty sure my motor still has the clutch pedal mounted as it put a nice dent in my trunk lid when I hauled it home. -Dave
I cant make up my mind whether to keep the chev chassis, go 3 springer or ford all the way. I am favoring the 3 spring look with T or A rear cross member. With regard to recent discussion on engine mounts I am sure someone on this thread suggested that replacing the chev4 single point front mount with a two point bracket reduced vibration - has anybody tried this. I know the 26-28 front mount is a pedestal single bolt but the cast 25 mount is two bolt - It may be worth looking at using the 25 front cross member however as it is cast it will be near impossible to modify to fit a different chassis such as a T.
The trans crossmember or lack thereof depends on what year you have. Dave, I have an extra one of those as well if you need one! Picked up the '25/'26 engine tonght from PBRmeASAP... it'll be hanging out in the back of the 4Runner for a day or two until I have the time to bring it in from the "cold" .
Yeah, when he picked us up on the way down he was shakin like a crack addict. The tremors kind of smoothed out as we got closer to where Jeff was staying. Then, once it was loaded, he was as steady as can be. We're starting to think it might be time for an intervention...but then we would have to admit we have the same problem. All right Bill, let's build that sucker.
Admittedly this is a borrowed pic of an Aussie car, but it doesn't look like the '28 must have used that? All I see is the somewhat-flimsy-looking trans mount sandwiched between the bellhousing and trans. -Dave
Yes that is 28 Chevy. I just pulled a engine and tranny out of a frame last night. The pedels on mine were on the left.
Sorry Dave- the tin mount is what I was talking about Stevie and Doug, I agree that it's time to start digging in!
Merry Christmas to all, Too those that expressed an interest in my 4 cyl. Chev drawings & pics please be patient till after the new year. I'm getting help on the best format & will have to wait for the right window. Pat
Okay, I finally got the engine out of the back of the 4Runner, but the transmission will NOT let go- I'm guessing that either the input shaft or clutch is rusted in place. I was able to get the trans top cover off and have been shooting PB Blaster in the two holes in the bellhousing, but it just won't budge... Anyone have any ideas as to how to get this separated? There is one rusted cylinder, so turning the engine over is out of the question. Would heating the input shaft work? Thanks for your help, and I'll post pics tomorrow evening! Bill
Probably, but the flywheel bolts have nuts that are inaccessible without getting the clutch out- I could also get the crank pulley off and simply remove the crankshaft with the flywheel/trans still attached... but I'd rather NOT do that
if anyone down under has an extra RHD brake pedal i would be interested ....i am building a center steer car and would like to run my external brake pedals on either side of my bell housing....i already have an extra pivot and they are symmetrical so i can use it on the right...thanks.
I'd chain the engine to a telephone pole and hook the transmission to a come-along and something solid. put a lot of stain on it. Then tap it with a 10 pound sledge. If it doesn't work, squirt some more stuff at it and repeat. Oh, stand out of the way. Norm
Thanks for all the suggestions guys! Long story short, I was victorious, but the victory came with a casualty... I wound up taking the angle grinder to the stamped bellhousing (I have a couple others) in order to expose the flywheel/clutch assembly. When all came apart, the trans shaft was frozen to the clutchplate/sleeve and would have been a bear to get apart, although I like Norm's idea... except for the distinct possibility of launching the engine at my neighbor's house All in all, the block looks pretty good, aside form some rust, which should "buff out" with a bore and honing. Here are a couple pics as promised:
Pat, I really like all your pics. Those are some really healthy main caps. Did you bore all the mains out to the same size so to use the same bearings? Also, in the second pic, can you expalin what you are doing? I think i know but would rather you explain it as opposed to me trying and being totally out in left field and sounding really dumb. And again, thanks for taking time to take all the pics of your machine work. Mike
Michael e, I plugged the front main bolt holes & made them the same distance apart as the others so that I could bore all the same size. The caps look beefy because I didn't have time to shape them. In the 2nd picture I'm setting the boring tool for the center cam bearing. The cam I installed had oversize journals & I bored the block big enough to use bronze bushings also. Pat
Pat- Neat idea on moving the front cap bolts! Dumb question, do you remember what color you used for the engine? Herb, sorry for not explaining that one pic- it's actually part of the oiling system and went into the side of the block to reach the center main. Well, I got the block all torn down- the pistons all came out nicely, and everything inside had a nice coating of 86 year-old gunk, so no rust on the moving parts (the connecting rod bolts were wet with old oil)... am I the only one who gets all giddy when I find stuff like that, or when the can of PB never needs to get used ? The block was built on Oct 25, 1925 and has a stamping of 2105 924... will find out just what it came out of in a bit.
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