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Need tips for installing '5o Merc rear glass with new rubber

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by shoebox1950, Dec 24, 2011.

  1. shoebox1950
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 1,221

    shoebox1950
    Member
    from California

    I'm doing a chop for a customer and the next step is installing the rear window. He provided a brand new Dennis Carpenter rubber seal for the '50 Merc rear window and I it is nearly impossible to install. I have left it out in the sun, hoping that it becomes more flexible, but it just seems way too big for the opening.

    I held the gl*** in the window frame by itself, and it all looks fine. The thickness of the rubber along the edges when installed on the gl*** looks to be about 1/4" too thick to even want to fit into the opening...anyone have any helpful tips so I can get this thing installed and move on with the chop?

    I have tried the string trick with no luck. Another problem is that the outside overlapping edge of the rubber (that goes over the body- past the stainless trim) is too small, and wants to fall down into the window opening, making it a real ***** to work the inside lip on, even with a small screwdriver. Any advice would be great...not trying to knock Dennis Carpenter here, as I have had great luck with their fine products in the past on '49-'51 Ford window seals...this '50 Merc seal just seems to be a nightmare to install!

    Thanks in advance...
    Rob
     
  2. It could be that it is not the seal you think it is.. Just a thought.
     
  3. shoebox1950
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 1,221

    shoebox1950
    Member
    from California

    Nope, positive it is the correct seal...
     
  4. RICK R 44
    Joined: Dec 13, 2009
    Posts: 475

    RICK R 44
    Member

    THE 49/51 FORD REAR WINDOW RUBBER THAT I PURCHASED FROM CARPINTERV WAS TOO BIG. I PUT IT ON THE WINDOW AND CUT A PIECE OUT SO THAT IT FIT PROPERLY. GLUED IT Back together with crazy glue. I USED 2 PIECES OF HEAVY CORD SO THAT I COULD WORK IT IN FROM THE BOTTOM AND THE TOP. THIS SEEMED TO MAKE GOING AROUND THE CORNERS EASIER
     
  5. unkledaddy
    Joined: Jul 21, 2006
    Posts: 2,865

    unkledaddy
    Member

    And spray it with a lot of silicone.
     
  6. shoebox1950
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 1,221

    shoebox1950
    Member
    from California

    This is what I'm afraid of...I went back and worked with it again after posting this and got about 2/3 of the gl*** in...and it is still WAY off...

    I've been hesitant on cutting the rubber, but if I have to, I guess that's the only option...

    Anyone else have further advice?

    Thanks again,
    Rob
     
  7. shoebox1950
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 1,221

    shoebox1950
    Member
    from California

    Perhaps Dennis Carpenter can take note of this and redo the mold? It's IMPOSSIBLE to get this rubber in!
     
  8. BLUECOLLARKUSTOMS
    Joined: Jan 22, 2006
    Posts: 184

    BLUECOLLARKUSTOMS
    Member

    call Dennis Carpenter and explain the problem, see if they will exchange it. It could have shrunk after it was removed from the mold. I wouldnt cut it, rubber always shrinks with age and it could cause a leak later.
     
  9. shoebox1950
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 1,221

    shoebox1950
    Member
    from California

    It hasn't shrunk...it fits nicely around the gl*** itself. The problem is that the gl*** with the rubber seal installed won't fit into the window opening at all...because the Dennis Carpenter seal is too thick. I'm not going to cut it- that would be unnecessary in my opinion, and half ***ed...it should fit right...why can't companies make things fit correctly??? Are they on here? Any tech advice from THEM by any chance?
     
  10. thesupersized
    Joined: Aug 22, 2004
    Posts: 1,367

    thesupersized
    Member

    solution to your problem.
     

    Attached Files:

  11. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

    Robby, I roll the rope in from top to bottom so you start pulling from the bottom.. Make sure the car and rubber are soapier than hell. I try and position the window so its equally in the frame all the way around and start pulling the rope from the bottom up. Once I get the sides in ill usually give the window a couple light bumps to shift it in a little better and then pretty much lay on the trunk and pull the gl*** down from the top to bottom it out on the lower flange. Then just slowly work it around, giving it bumps and once its in I smack the **** out of it with an open palm. Loads of fun, its a little bit of a pain by yourself, just keep an eye on the rope and go slow!
     
  12. slddnmatt
    Joined: Mar 30, 2006
    Posts: 3,685

    slddnmatt
    Member

    They act differently with The stainless in too, alot harder to manuver. If all else fails you cans run a normal size 1/4" thick grinding wheel through the channel to get the gl*** to sit a tad deeper. Once again is it really that hard to make a quality part that fits?????
     
  13. desotot
    Joined: Jan 29, 2008
    Posts: 2,049

    desotot
    Member

    I have a dennis carpenter rubber for my 49 merc, it came with the two bars for the three piece window which are separate, the correct way is to ***emble the gl*** in the rubber and install the stainless and then rope it in.So I have done this and I cannot get the perimiter stainless to meet at the top because the rubber is too long so like RICK R 44 says, I will cut it and glue it with crazy glue, and this is an acceptable way to handle the problem.
     
  14. shoebox1950
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 1,221

    shoebox1950
    Member
    from California

    Thanks, Matt! I will give it another try probably tomorrow if I get a break from Christmas stuff :)

    Chris...good one! Boy that back window really flows...hahahaha

    Merry Christmas everyone!
    Rob
     
  15. When the top got chopped, maybe the window sheetmetal moved during the welding process? If not braced properlly or not at all before being cut, it will move. I like Matts idea of running a grinding wheel through the groove of the seal for more room. Might help ya out there. I still have blood blisters on my palms from beating in the backgl*** on my Merc after paint,,,,,,,,I swear thats what they are from, its my story!!!
     
  16. Russco
    Joined: Nov 27, 2005
    Posts: 4,397

    Russco
    Member
    from Central IL

    Dont ***ume because its a new rubber its going to be right. I once tried 3 different sources for a 38 windshield seal and couldnt get any of them to fit (same thing) more than likely its going to need trimmed
     
  17. gasolinescream
    Joined: Sep 7, 2010
    Posts: 614

    gasolinescream
    Member

    Fella if i was closer i'd help you out. Few Q's , need some more info?

    Is the screen rubber tight on the gl***, ie did you have to stretch it to to fit the corners? Do the trims fit okay in the rubber?

    If the screen sets up properly it may be other things. New repop rubbers can be a nightmare and in many cases i'd had to trim one of the lips down to a better profile. Tighter than a nuns chuff!! Having said that before i'd be thinking of cutting up someone's new part i'd have a final go at re-fitting it. Without seeing what we're talking about having not done a Merc pretty sure the principle is the same for your car. Hopefully some of this may help. This is stuff i had p***ed down to me from some of the best and has always helped me.

    Make sure the gl*** is squeeky clean, especially on the edges. When setting up the gl*** and rubber wipe a good smear of grease through the groove where the gl*** sits into, all the way around. I only ever use grease when sealing a screen. When you set your gl*** up make sure the gl*** is 100% into the rubber and rubber is lined up correctly. Before fitting any trims go around the screen rubber with a rubber mallet and give the rubber a gentle tap to ensure it's snugly fitted and fully located in the rubber. Sometimes if the gl*** isn't located fully in a rubber it's going to create a tight spot when fitting it and appear to be too big for the hole it's going in to.

    Once your happy with how the screen is set up flip it over ready to rope (cord) it up. Don't use thin string, nice quality cord is best as it won't tear into a rubber. Lightly waxing it does help aswell. What you aiming to do is rope it up but give yourself the ability to rope the gl*** in bit by bit. Start roping the rubber up from the bottom right of the gl*** and as you get to the middle, make a loop of cord that will dangle out and carry on pushing the cord into the rubber. Do the same on each side of the gl***. When finished instead of having one point to be able to start to lip the rubber in from, you should have 4 loops of cord, being top, bottom and both sides. Then trial fit the screen.

    If all ok, with the gl*** now removed and on a stand grab a 1" brush and smear some normal grease around the ribbed area that will contact the body, a decent smear. Also do the same on the window aperture, a good smear of grease all around. This is now where you need another pair of hands or 2. Lift the screen in, keeping it central and located as good as it can be. Ensure the the folks outside of the car keep firm pressure at all times and don't let the gl*** move about at all.

    Jump in and starting in the bottom of the screen try and get a small amount of rubber lipped over maybe 3-4" as a start. Make sure the guys on the outside don't let the gl*** rise when your doing this. Quickly grab the loop in the top and do the same pulling i a few inches. Hopefully its now central on the top and bottom, just! So keep holding that gl*** in place.
    Then repeat on both sides, just a few inches. Hopefully you should made a start on ****ing the gl*** into the car and have a little bit of each side of the rubber lipped over. Work your way around each side another time and on the third run the gl*** should have plopped into place and you have a handful of cord. You can then grab a plastic tool and lip the rubber over on the outside of the car should you need to.

    If all that fails it's time to start chopping:D

    Sorry it's not explained very well but hopefully you get the idea. Main thing is loop the cord, grease, keep it central and ease it in. Hahaha sounds like something i asked my ex wife to do one night:eek:

    Happy Holidays!
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2011
  18. john mullen
    Joined: Mar 12, 2008
    Posts: 4,983

    john mullen
    Member

    Great post there Gasolinescream. the 4 cord idea is really good as is the grease. Never ever try to put anything in without good lube.....
     
  19. gasolinescream
    Joined: Sep 7, 2010
    Posts: 614

    gasolinescream
    Member

    John i can't contribute here in a technical capacity very often as i know jack **** about building hot rods etc. Every now and then i can chime in when i'm feeling brave. I'm a master autoglazier by trade and there's basic stuff i picked up very early that really helped. I've always multi-looped gl*** in, from cars to coaches. Not everyone does. It takes more time and a little more patience but saves hitting it with hand held sand bags to try and shift it in the rubber once its fitted or having it go pop or crack!
    The grease thing i swear by. Like you said, we all need a little lube:D Most cars i get i'll re-rubber and tidy the gl***, it's my thing. Everytime i seal with grease. I was shown this years ago when i was an apprentice. Unless you are blending/moulding and need a solid type sealer like a urethane, grease is all i'd use. A constant wet seal, not affected by cold or warmth, won't shrink, and easy to clean up. It also helps preserve the rubber and the aperture the gl*** sits into. Put it this way, my cars are always bone dry and that counts here!!!!

    Forgot , grab a spanner to stick through the loops. Gives you something to pull on and not wreck your fingers.

    Sorry getting slightly O/T and a little nerdy about waxed cord and grease, doesn't seem right some how :eek:
     
    Last edited: Dec 25, 2011
  20. shoebox1950
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 1,221

    shoebox1950
    Member
    from California

    The '50 window is not installed yet- I'm trying to put the '50 gl*** in the window opening/roof section off the car so I can lay it into the chop and panel the rear of the roof.

    I've never had this much trouble putting on a new rubber...even drunk! :)

    Thanks for the help guys!
    Rob
     
  21. shoebox1950
    Joined: Jul 17, 2008
    Posts: 1,221

    shoebox1950
    Member
    from California


    Thanks for the tips! Actually, I've tried them all except for greasing it up...and I think I will do that tomorrow as a last-ditch attempt to conquer this pain in the gl***! hahaha

    I will report back...

    thanks guys and Merry Christmas!
    Rob
     
  22. EXK
    Joined: Apr 21, 2009
    Posts: 943

    EXK
    Member
    from SO CAL

    Robby you might have combination of issues going on there. You might have an early 49 rear window opening that are slightly smaller. The new rubber seal are thicker than orginals but if it fits tight on to the gl*** and hold the stainless in i have been able to make them all work and never have had to cut one down to install. Also check the back gl*** OD to an orginal as i have seen some repops that are not true to size. Also install the rubber to gl*** and stainless dry but soap the **** out of the window opening. I do not recommend grease to install as the grease will stay slippery for many years. If you can not get it in bring it by and i will help you.

    Oh, Marry Xmas Robby and family.
     
  23. snappindog
    Joined: Sep 5, 2010
    Posts: 6

    snappindog
    Member
    from 01590

    i to got a newden carp rubber had apro come in to install what a pain in the *** i ended up using the stock one o i am using a 3 piece gl*** center stripsares new merc land still awork in progress thanks for the info iknow it will help a lot Snappin dog
     

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