Who has a STRAIGHT 6 in your HotRod? Come On, stand up!

OK, so the fuel pressure is boosted proportionally, but the float shuts that down when the bowl is full or the carb will flood. So do the metering jets get smaller to keep from flooding the engine? The jets must be the only possible exit for the fuel out of the bowl; correct? What about the accelerator pump? wouldn't the one way check valve release bowl pressure constantly? Is the upward pressure of the float increased to the needle and seat to be able to control the increased pressure? Does the increased internal pressure make the fuel heavier and therefore harder for the float to displace the fuel? Seems like the atmospheric pressure inside the float itself would remain constant. Is it necessary to lean out the idle circuit? How does a boost referenced regulator or pump work? This is most interesting to me. Thanks! ~WX1

 

will be running a chevy 250 inline once i get the 51 IH on the road. just got a couple of goodies for it this past weekend, traded a push mower for the parts

 

I do. Ford 200/c4 combo... But I don't think it's a hot rod. Just a cruiser

 

I do. Ford 200/c4 combo... But I don't think it's a hot rod. Just a cruiser

 

As you pointed out in your first post the pressure is a float chamber is the same as at the carb inlet, which is why the fuel pressure has to go up the same, if it doesn't flow will decay as the boost climbs untill if stops, by which point the bowl will likely be dry.

Since the fuel flows proportional to the pressure difference (fuel VS air) all you have to do is maintain that.

The float doesn't sink under the increased fuel pressure becase the air pressure in that chamber is pushing that much harder on the fuel, the forces on the float itself ballance since the pressure comes at it from all sides and therefore cancel.

I'm not saying that there might not be a carb out there that won't tollerate that, just that modern carbs don't seem to have an issue with it.

Since there isn't a difference between the carb inlet pressure and the float chamber the jetting only needs to change relative to what the engine would require for that amount of power.

Each combination is going to be a bit different, so it will require tuning to suit, but I would start with a bit larger jetting.

You will need to seal anu possible air leaks, including the throttle shafts as fuel can blow out there, even if they are fresh they can leak under pressure.

Beyond that, there are several good books on that, it's more than I can type here.

 

.............

 

What he said haha.

When building my setup with the McCulloch supercharger I'm researched and there are two was of going with it. The way I have it set up right now blowing through the carbs.

Or if that doesn't work a pressurized box that will surround the carbs pressurizing them as well.

Plus it's only about 3-5psi

 

One thing about a Rootes style blower, like those featured on the 2-stroke diesel engines (once) built by GM, is that they were never designed to pressurize air. They were only designed to move air, positively, in a certain direction.
A turbine style, like the old McCullough, is a much more efficient design for air pressurization.


....however, a 6-71 blower is so much more cooler looking than a Paxton you'd be nuts not to bolt one on your engine, if for no other reason that the "bling" factor.



6narow

 

I'm currently running a 170 i6 out of an econoline in my '60 ranchero, but thanks to BISHOP and Ken Herring at Texas Chassis Works, I'm building a very very hot 200 out of a '68 falcon, 6 to 1 header, offy tri power intake... lots of goodies, that I plan on backing with a T-10 trans going out to an 8.8 that i have. now... (EDIT) crazy shit, the day I finally start to get irritated, my damn parts show up the next day.... SCHWEET.

 

LET's more PICTURES!!!

 

Im gonna run a 250 with clifford intake and headers , holly 435 cfm and mallory dual point distributor in my 34 chevy tub.
I'm working on my motor mounts at the moment.

 

Leaving that exhaust under the front of the engine? ~WX1

 

English ist nicht so schlecht, besser als mein deutsch.

The engine does appear to have been modeled using Chrysler six of the period. Chrysler made 2 6's for cars and trucks. One was 59.7 cm at the head the other 63.5. the larger one was from Desoto and Chrysler, the smaller Dodge, Plymouth, and Dodge light duty trucks.

Russia has had a history of reverse engineering items rather than coming up thier own designs. I know a large quantity of American vehicles, and military equipment went to Russia during WWII as part of the "lend lease act". So it is not suprising to find engines looking very similar to those which were shipped there during that time.

The intake and exhaust porting looks different from the American MOPARS but the position of the oil pump, distributor, generator mount, fule pump, very closely mirror the locations from the Chrysler Corp engines.

By the way is your friend Capt Fred withthe 41 Plymouth with the three carbs?? Is your car a Pobeda?

 

Will be replacing stock GMC 228 in my 1950 GMC Pickup. Will be putting in an updated 270. May bore it out to make a 292 with dual Fenton. Motor comes compliments Retromotors Got motor from the Magnolia State

 

There is no exhaust yet only the headers, i think what you see is the wood that holds the engine at good height.

 

Wow, I was fooled too. Good trompe-loeil.

 

Yep, I've got my glasses on now. What I saw was the front of the pan. It looked to me like you had a pipe from the front header snaking around under the front of the engine. Sorry! ~WX1

 

had a later ford 200 in the old comet. not too bad on power (torque), good on gas, but more than anything absolutely trouble-free and durable as hell--just a gasket set when i bought it and it took all the abuse i could serve up and ran like brand new as long as i owned it. still have a $700 beater mustang with the same motor, runs like a champ. seven main bearings in the post-'65 ones. i recommend.

 

...but on the up side, I think we've accidentally stumbled across a new way to keep your oil liquified during the very cold winter months.


6narow

 

Ab-so-lutely!
Any of those "late model" sixes; the 225, the 194-292 and the 144-250, + the 240 and 300, were all rock solid motors because the technology that went into them, while thoroughly moderne, was nothing "cutting edge". It was all, already proven.
...makes me yearn for an early 60's Nova or Falcon with modern 3-sprd auto and highway gears.
Not the quickest or fastest car on the block (although they'll sometimes surprise you), but keep it full of gas and oil and the SOB's will run longer than you will!
In fact, I've got a short video of a very sweet looking little 250 Ford just idling.
The first time I saw it, it purred so smoothly, I didn't even realize it was running until the fans came on.
Here, see for yourself - Comet 250 engine idling



6narow

 

I'm looking to replace the 212 splasher Six in my '47 Hudson with a Chevy 292 Six this Winter. Found a complete engine, along with a PowerGlide automatic, in Colorado this week, and plan to get it as soon as the weather allows. Nice thing about the '47 is that it was available with the 254 ci straight Eight. The radiator support can be moved four inches forward to a pair of factory pre-drilled holes. In the case of the 292, this allows a perfect fit lengthwise, and allows for easy fabbing of a pair of front engine mounts foir the 292. Minor sheetmetal cutting of the lower splashpan is all that is necessary for the area ahead of the radiator. The trans mount is a little more complicated, due to the Hudson's "X"-frame design (like a '60 Chevy). The length of the PowerGlide and the stock Hudson 3-speed trans are very close.

This will be "sorta"-hotrodded, enough for fun, but not so much where it's a PITA to drive on the highway. Plans are to have it running and driving by June '12, and finished with paint and interior within a year from then. Got a couple of miinor projects to finish before then.

 

Good choice for an engine. Plenty of torque. I run a 4 speed with mine and a 2.90 rear and get 22/24 mpg on the road. Never overheats/runs 160-180 all summer long. ~WX1

 

"194" in my "63" Nova wagon / turbo 350 / Ford 8" rear end out of a V8 Maverick. Runs like a watch, always starts right up and gets fairly good mpg.. I'm satisfied...!

 

Patrick66,

Your '47 Hudson sounds like a very cool project.
You might wanna think about switching out the tranny, though.
Nothing wrong with the powerslide, but fairly tall geared tranny.
The "6" version used a 1.82 first gear. That + 4.10 gears would be the same overall ratio as using 2.96 gears with a TH350, or 2.73 gears with a TH200.
Think of using the 3-spd auto's as a "reverse overdrive transmission", as compared to using the 2-spd PG, because you're allowed a taller rear axle ratio (Hope that makes sense).
...also, Cherry Bomb's sound absolutely Bitchin' with a 6. Nice mellow rumble.


6narow

 

It took more work than anticipated, but we finally got it to work: 292 L6 in a '63 Chevy II Photos

 

63ChevyII, yer car is tits-in-the-face cool.

 

Bone stock 235 straight 6 with a split fenton manny in my 50 chevy 2 door sedan

 

63ChevyII,

buddy I have been following your engine build. Do you have a video clip.
would love to hear it run

 

I am currently building a Wayne headed 235 babbit pounder for my chopped fleetline. My dad bought the head new in the '50's. Hoping to have the motor ready to run this year

 

Thanks!

I started working on one a while back. I'll have to dig it up and see what's going on with it.

What site did you find the build on?