You, my good friend, are a tremendous liar Pat, how far did you bore out the cam bearings? I haven't looked at the '25 block, but it didn't look like there was much to work with in the '28 blocks.
Mac, the paint was custom mixed @ true value hardware using ExoRust base. I can get the formula if you want. In the real world the paint is darker than in the picture, maybe because of the flash. Here's a picture of moving the bolts over & the engine installed in the roadster where you can see the color more like it is. Pat (PS, we mixed paint 3 times to get close to the original color on the '48 era race engine )
Mac, I bored the block to 1.468, the cam journals were 1.370. In a later dwg of one of the cams used way back the journals were 1.392 dia. If my memory is correct, an earlier than '25 cam had a larger heel dia. but I can't recall what year that was. Maybe '14-'18? P
Dave, If you're not going to use that transmission, I'd be interested in the shifter/parking brake/top plate !
Pat, Thanks as always for the information and pics- your input is invaluable and has given me (and many others) lots of great ideas!
Bill, I'm sorry to say that's not a pic of my engine. I believe that photo came from a relatively current ad in the HAMB Classifieds. Once I wake up a bit, I'll try to find it for you. -Dave
While looking for that classified ad, I also discovered one for a frame. The motor mounts here look different from what I'm used to seeing: Link to giant pic. Any ideas? -Dave
Nevermind, I see it now in the earlier picture I posted. I was confusing that cross piece between the bellhousing and transmission with the rear engine mount. If you look at the picture of the Australian car I posted before, those pans beside the engine tricked my eyes into missing what is apparently the real rear engine mount in front of the bellhousing. It makes sense, though, that you wouldnt want to have the rear motor mount be way behind the bellhousing like I was imagining it - not with a front engine mount the way it was done. I guess you can tell Ive never seen a complete 4-cyl Chevy in the flesh before, huh? I guess Ill need both the front crossmember and the rear engine mount to fit the Chevrolet engine into the T frame. -Dave PS Sorry about that giant picture. It didn't look that big on my phone.
Dave, I'm ashamed to say that I didn't even recognize the engine I just bought . Different years used different mounts- I have what I think is a '26 frame that has no mounts at the bellhousing area.
That's pretty funny. I just realized one thing, though. Even though my actual '28 engine didn't come with a complete transmission, I do think I got an orphan shift tower with it. Do you need that? -Dave
Mac did you buy this '25 engine? If it isn't email the seller and see if it has the Ferro or Clover leaf foundry mark. Ferro blocks apparently are the better casting and less prone to cracking.
Jimmy, that's the one that is now sitting in my garage- it has the clover leaf mark... let's hope it doesn't crack What does the Ferro mark look like?
Maybe I missed it in amongst all the replies, but why couldn't you machine the head for guides? Couldn't you just find one with the right diameter for the valves you want to use and long enough to go through the head? Or is this overly simplistic?
Yes you could. If it was mine I would install bronze false guides.. Much more direct than going to oversized stem valves and a better valve guide. You ream the bronze liners after installation. By the way. Recent Non Chevy (yesterday-Dodge Bros) pictures. In case you don't read the 4 Banger thread. Did you see the '28 Chevy distributor went for $200+ on Ebay?
Rich- You are absolutely correct about the bronze insert guides, except two over riding factors controlled my decision to go to larger stems - I had suitable valves - and more important, I think, is that I use the stock, felt pad, oiling "system", which works satisfactorily for my occasional street use. Steel and cast iron will run together (as I am sure you will know) with minimal lubrication---I'm not so sure how steel/bronze would do under the same conditions. The engines that you build are meant for the other end of the service spectrum - 5000 RPM is no place for boundary layer lubrication--even though I am sure that it unintentionally exists at times. Different folks for different strokes--or sumpthin like that. Herb
happy new year from down under have been busy in the shed so not much computer time .my last time was looking for info on water pumps .them many hours figureing it out worked i found a nos water pump in a box at a house sale .with a bit of a nudge it fitted perfect . now i need info on firing order i thought 1342 but looking at those crank pictures im not so sure . do the motor and gear box mounts have any kind of bushes or mounts or metal to metal. also the guy who is making centre steer roadster ive got a brake pedal in 27( tin pressing ) or 28 full cast the clutch pedal would be closer to bellhousing ive got both ienclosed a couple of pics i put an add in the paper wanted chev 4 chassis this guy rang me went to have a look it was indoors in original paint so i paid the money 200 he started laughing and said you gotta take the rest 4 car trailer loads of 90 % chev 4 stuffall under a tarp the roadster is 31 ft axle an rims with aussie holden cowl and home made doors i was told by an old guy in his ninetys that the tub is a super rare chev body any info appreciated thanx
thanks for the reply ....i will send you a p.m. .....the roaster/phaeton is incredibly cool thanks for taking the time to post. and welcome.
Wow, lots and lots of pages here... Me and a friend are trying to build a 1928 truck and want to keep the 171... Trying to get 100hp out of it, Is it possible? Any where to find any performance parts, like full pressure oil, cams, etc? Im going to make an intake and exhaust manifolds, thinking using a 390 4 barrel?
One idea could be to run twin carbs- Stromberg Hs4's should just about fit right on the intake side of the head (John Gerber, who is referenced here many times, ran twin carbs without any problems)?
what do you think about twin tillotsens? the carbs from a model A, updraft. are the strombergs side draft?
Yup, SU's are sidedraft- a little finicky, but overall pretty good. Zenith/Tillotsens would probably be a good choice as well. I'd like to find a pair of sidedraft Zenith's like these on the Eddie Miller streamliner:
Hi Guys Almost sold all my chev engines. I am frustrated that I just cant get any parts for it. I ended the listing with 20 mins to go and will push ahead. Its like banging my head against a wall and it hurt when I stopped. So I have a head. Can anyone suggest a place that has any rocker gear? I remember earlier in the thread people were talking about making their own. Did anything come from that? Also, I am missing ONE pushrod and a few of the caps on them. Lifters I am ok for. Can anyone please help point me in the right direction? I have a rolling chassis. I am ok for a gearbox. I am sadly missing a running engine. Cheers Damo
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