If you clip a car/truck and wish to use the stock steeing column, how do you make the transition? The project in question is a 49 Ford sedan clipped with an S10. How can I modify the column that once attached directly to the stock steering box, but now needs to connect to the GM box. I assume I will need to shorten the column, and install a bearing to support the shaft inside the column. Ideas? Pics? Rich
post that column on ebay. junk. speedway motors has a brand new black painted column with bearings ready to go in different lengths for $89.00. comes with quick disconnect hub. the end of the shaft is double d and they carry all the u joints and heim ends and shafts. some are double d and some are 3/4 round. i used them twice with no problems. i bought a turn signal switch that strapped to the column. easy and looks cool and they cant steal your rod if there isnt a steering wheel.
Hello Rich, It's pretty easy. No need to buy a Speedway column when you can make yours work for pennies. You'll need a bearing to go at the end of the column tube. Measure the column ID and your steering shaft OD. Look in the McMaster-Carr catalog and find the appropriate SEALED bearing. I think mine was .75 ID x 1.75 OD. Ideally you want the bearing to be a light press fit into the column. Use a weld-on or double-d universal joint at the end of the steering shaft. I set my up so that it pulls tight against the steering column bearing when the nut that retains the steering wheel is tightened. Make sense? Ed
Burger is right as far as the cheapest method. I do think No-Limit engineering (i think) has something called the "column saver." It's basically a bearing like Burger described but with a machined aluminum housing made to fit your column. i think they're about 75 or 80 bucks.
Please don't use the key-in-column S-10 thingie in a '49 Ford...it'll look so out of place and it'll look like you were in a hurry to put the car together. Contact Bob at Owens Salvage (look in the HAMB-o'dex for his number) and have him sell/send you a column that'll look like it belongs there...mating it up will only require some u-joints and a little figuring... R-
Yep, makes sense. The top of the column has the bearing that I need, but I doubt that it is being reproduced. I guess that I could rob one from another column. I also plan to use the stock shift lever for my 700R4. Rich
Of course I read it...show me where it says you are going to use something else other than the S-10 column... R-
Why would you interpret "stock steering column" as the S10 column? If I was hooking and S10 column to an S10 clip, then I probably wouldn't be needing any guidance, would I ? Rich
like people said... find yourself a place that sells bearings that fit the column and the shaft and get the proper bearing. one end of the column is supported by the bracket on the dash, the other end was supported by the box which is now gone so you will need to support the other end of the column as it passes through the firewall. be sure and measure how much your column originally stuck out from the dash if you want it to be back in the stock position... at least with chevys from this era there is nothing on the column to tell you where it was before. have a look at the Borgeson online catalog and spend a fortune on u-joints and shafts. when I did my 49 Chevy I took my grinder and ground a flat on the original 3/4" shaft that came with the car and fitted a proper Borgeson U-joint. grind-fit, grind-fit, grind-fit... until it slips on snug.... unless you have a mill or something. cut the box off and leave the column longer than you think you might need until you get the motor and exhaust and everything else in. then you can adjust the length that sticks out the firewall to a position that uses the fewest U-joints on its way down to the box. easy squeezy
Actually, it's a rubber bushing, and Mac's sells it for $4.75. That's probably the best route. Thanks, Rich
OK, MY bad...when I read it, I assumed (and you and I both know what that means) you were using the "stock" S-10 column...guess I'd better read more carefully next time...peace...!!! R-
There's a lot of items available, to support the lower steering column...I would avoid the "cheapie" ones, though. Bearings are easy enough to locate,...so you can keep the stock column. 4TTRUK
Dont pick on Roger,he and all of us mean well =get over it....Here is what you need..... Its at all farm stores and even westlakes/Ace/true value. It is in a section with a display of fittings and bearings they all have, it is called a RADIAL bearing. It slips in the stock column tube and this bearing has a sheetmetal flange about 1/8" around the outer edge....I usually tack it in place after installing it with a couple tiny spot welds...Most bearings including this one are gonna be 3/4" ID.. ... that will not work on your steer shaft- it is about 10 thous' over that dimension. what I do is sand the shaft down with a 24 grit sand disc to a slip fit.... these bearings are 3 dollars and will out last you and your car in this location....
It's OK...I have thick skin...that one was on me...sometimes the mind plays tricks with the words displayed (and I'm not getting any younger)...but, thanx for the good thots... R-
this is a 56 Ford P/U automatic mast. I harvested a shaft from another box. I cut the top of the mast on another column and welded it onto the bottom with the bearing. I used 2 of the metal clips off of one of these universal hangers and a SS hose clamp to anchor it to the wooden floorboard. When the carpet is in you can't see it. No 1-800 parts at all just recycled junk. The vendor wanted 150 bucks for the chromed column and box. My buddy wanted the box so we split the cost. 75 bucks for a chromed automatic mast with the look that I wanted and the turn signal switch seemed like a good deal to me.
Rich, when I adapted 67-72 Chevy power steering box to my '55 Chevy pickup i used the stock column, I did pretty much exactly what Burger said. I cut the original one-piece steering column / shaft / box apart at the box, pulled the shaft out, then cut down the outer housing so about 3" stuck out past the firewall. I swedged a bearing in the end of the housing - got lucky and found one the right size at my local Ace hardware - I think it was for some type of farm machinery? Then I ground flats onto the stock round steering shaft for a double D u-joint. I guess Mcyunger doesn't know how much Miller High Life $89 will buy - haha.
I was just jerking his chain, no harm meant. Good info, I'm heading to TSC tomorrow. Damn straight, 8 - 18 packs, to be exact Thanks for the info guys, the HAMB rules! Rich
Cut OEM column where it goes into engine bay, machine a nylon block, add a grease nipple fitting and a small 1" ID roller bearing to it. Nipple holds block in end of column. Machine a 3/4" DD end to shaft and a small collar to hold bearing, weld collar to shaft and add a floor plate to column base. I just need to machine a small groove for a cir-clip at base of nylon to stop movement in shaft. Whilst at it, replace upper bearing. Done. Might be a bit overkill for some folk but works for me.
I guess making the stock horn ring work is just wishful thinking? The stocker ran the ground wire through the shaft. Anybody have any ideas/solutions for this dilema? Yeah, I'm asking a lot of questions Rich
This should help--I thought it was a very good article and bookmarked it for later work Cheap & Easy Tech by RacerRick on the HAMB dated 4-16-2010
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