Hello all, Since getting my '47 Chevy Fleetline running & driving again we've been sorting out little nagging problems. The lack of turn signals has now come up on the 'to-do' list and I can't figure out what to do next. I'm hoping some of the experts here can chime in with suggestions on what to do other than pull out my hair, which I am considering. Its an original car with all the original stuff on it. 6 volt system with a rebuilt generator, new regulator and new battery & cables. Here's what we've done: All exterior lights work like they're supposed to, including parking & tail lights & brake lights. Bulbs have all been replaced with proper 6 volt type and wattage. All grounds have been cleaned, all housings & contacts have been checked & cleaned. The car is using a Signal Stat universal signal unit and wiring has been checked. Here's what happens: Turn signals will light up (nice & bright) but not flash. Flasher unit was replaced with NOS Signal Stat original in the box for a 6v system. Plugged it in and it does the same thing. Lights light up, but will not flash. Could it be a bad original and a bad NOS flasher? I surely wouldn't think both would be bad. What could I try next? Should I use another aftermarket flasher and see what happens? Rip it all out and try a new signal kit? Am I missing something simple here? Thanks as always for the advice everyone. I've been putting things back to working order and the HAMB has helped a great deal!
Slowforty- Would it be a bad ground at the flasher itself? I have cleaned all ground contacts at each lamp socket, under the hood (4 terminal posts where lights all connect) and under the dash at the flasher unit. Dash is grounded since I have all the instrument lights working using the dash & gauges as ground. I assume that's still good though? Does the case of the flasher need to be grounded as well?
It could be that your signal lights aren't pulling enough amps to make the flasher work.. Just for grinds, wire in a 3rd bulb( like another stop lite bulb) on one side and see if that makes it work.. If it does you can experiment with different flashers or wire the extra bulb across the left and right circut and hide it under the dash.... I hope this makes sense.....
If it is a heavy duty flasher, used with just two bulbs per side, the low draw might not get the bi-metallic switch inside of the flasher hot enough to break the contact. a flasher is just a self re-setting circuit breaker. edit; see... I type too slow for scrapmetal48...
Question: 1- When you turn on the right signal do only the right side come on and same for the left. 2-Are the turn signals wired independantly of the other lights 3-Do the 4 ways work as they should. Can truobleshoot more after you answer those.
Thanks Scrap. That's something I can do that won't cost anything but time. I did pull out two 'wire taps' on each tail light wire & heat shrinked the OEM wires back up. They led to nothing, but maybe this flasher was hooked up to another set of tailights at one time? Are all flashers are tripped by load? Old Rat thanks here are the answers: 1. Yes. 2. No, they are wired into the parking lights up front, and stop lamps in the rear. The car still has single-filament bulbs & sockets in the front, and dual filaments in the rear. 3. No 4way flashers. So in theory, only 2 bulbs at a time will be flashed...so maybe its a load thing?
All of the above is good advice but one thing needs to be emphasized about the "ground". On a vehicle that age the ground circuit usually is compromised by rust/dirt. the ground circuit isn't just from the lamp socket to the lamp housing, it's also the lamp housing to the body/fender, fender to body, body to chassis, chassis to battery. While a 6 volt system will function well if everything is is good order, 6 volt systems will not tolerate the voltage drop that occurs through the typical aging process. While this occurs on 12 volt systems too, the margin is greater. You could try running an independent ground wire (try at minumum 12 ga., 10 ga even better) from the lamp housings on each end to the battery ground post. Actually, all of the above applies to the positive side of the circuit as well. dirty connections/contacts, corroded wires ends at terminals, etc. ANYWHERE in the system also produce voltage drop. Many years ago I taught some service school classes for VW and the 6 volt VW's were notorious for horn and starter solenoid problems. We used to take a voltage meter through the circuit to illustrate the drop on both hot and ground sides. Ray
If you are using the stock front parking light bulb as the signal it does not pull enough power to make the flasher work. You need about a 30 candle power bulb in there, 30 CP is what the brake light filament is.
Now I am starting to guess your age.... I went to factory VW school in NY in march 1970, and they did go through the entire chassis with the meters to show loss at each connection, as well as trans mount, bell, etc for grounds...all done on the 6v display chassis. Wow, long time ago.
This is correct. A standard 6v parking bulb won't draw enough to activate the flasher, especially a HD flasher. Another potential problem is that the parking lights are not "isolated" in a pre turn signal era car. This can lead to both front parking lights blinking at once unless you disconnect them at the light switch. Then they work as parking lights any more. None of this is a fault of the 6v system, but good 12v electrical components are much easier come by now a days.
Had the same problem with my 6volt a coupe, went through all the grounds, changed flashes, redid the wiring, still would not flash. As the other posts said, use higher drawing globes or wire in an extra light per circuit to increase draw,this will get the points in the flasher working, pretty sure this will fix the prob. Thommo
UPDATE: Its fixed! First off, thanks for the advice everyone! I had a lot of time to digest this info over dinner (my wife wished I talked to her, but I had the HAMB up on my phone most of the night. Oh well). Turned out being a set of points inside the flasher unit that were corroded and not making contact. Another friend suggested I tap the unit to free up the points, but instead I opened it up and this is what was inside. Kinda hard to see...but you get the picture. After a little emery cloth and cleaning with contact cleaner she's as good as new. This is the most bizarre flasher unit I've ever seen...and apparently it had sat long enough to get 'stuck'? Who knows. Just glad she's up & running again. For what its worth, the relay is a Signal Stat R6, and seems to be 100% again. Thank you HAMBers for the wisdom and advice. Also the relay & bulb load is great info BTW for future reference. I always learn so much here and am grateful for your help. Now I have to go patch up my marriage or sleep on the couch. Cheers!