Photo credit Gerry Burger.....its the best example I can find. Hope you don't mind I am building a 28 ford roadster PU. I like the interior shot in this picture. I am trying to sort out the seat height for planning purposes. I would also like to plan the height of the steering wheel and how much steering column drop is comfortable. I plan on keeping the stock steering wheel, headlight switch. I can order an aftermarket box that you can shorten the steering column to whatever you want. I might even lay the windshield back a bit but I am hoping to get feedback from those that have walked the path before..... I'm 5' 10" and 200+ lbs........I know they are small cabs. thanks for the input Dale
Really there is no "correct" length or height because there are just too many variables. You're going to have to mock it up and sit in it to see what works for you. The picture is of a 1932 Ford roadster which will have a bit more room than a stock 1928 Ford RPU. It also has a 1940 Ford passenger car steering wheel and column.
Yes, you're comparing apples to oranges here. The '28 RPU has considerably less leg room that the '32. As alrerady stated, you need to mock up the seat height, wheel dia, column length and drop, and the thickness if the seat back. Also consider what, if any the firewall set back will be. This is the good part of building your own hot rod. You can custom tailor it to fit you.
One thing I always like to do in any build is sit in the seat and prop my left arm up on the door sill just like I would have it if driving down the road. Then I see where my hand falls with the steering wheel I am going to use. By holding the wheel there while giving enough belly room and distance between the bottom of the wheel and your lap, you will find the best location for it. I also sometimes use a 3/4 inch diameter wooden dowel that I run down through the floor to see where the column will be, going from the wheel to the steering box. Every car is different and presents different challenges to get a comfortable driving position. I might add that every inch of room you can pick up in the backrest gives you a whole lot more room for the rest of your body. So don't go too thick on the backrest, just thick enough for comfort. Don
Thanks guys, does anyone have a floor to top of seat measurement and advise on seat padding etc thanks Dale
Here is how i did it, get a stack of books, plop them on your floorboard one at a time until you feel right, after that is good then take a steering wheel and jam a dowel into the center and make a couple quick u shaped brakets to hold it it place and clamp one to you dash and one to your floorboard. So using a dowel for your steering shaft means you can fairly easily shorten and lenthen it, so if you need to shorten your column, just saw it off above the box and slide a slightly bigger piece of tube over your steering shaft then slide the dowel into that, this way you locate your steering wheel and box togather too, and dont realize later that either you need to saw your legs off because the wheel is too low or knotch your frame because the box doesnt fit Sit in the car and see what is comfortable, i'm 6'1" around 215 and trying to build a channeled t roadster, so comfort is relitive, but it worked for me
You are right about how the door gap can pinch your arm on a bump. A buddy of mine had a T bucket with an opening door on the passenger side. Every time I would ride shotgun that damn thing would pinch the underside of my arm. Maybe that is why none of my roadsters ever had a door. Don
here's mine, I am about the same size as you, I kept the steering column short and using a smaller wheel gave me a bit of extra room, you also have to keep in mind the distance from the wheel to dashboard
I'm 6 foot and spent a LOT of time locating seat, wheel, column height and angle, etc. in my '28 rpu. The wheel's got to be high enough that you can get your knees up to push the clutch and brake, but it can't be so high that your knuckles scrape on you raked windshield . (Especially true if you're running a stock diameter wheel). I used the stock seat riser, with a plywood insert. Cut a hole in the plywood under your butt and cross weave it with taught nylon strap -- for some "give." Then experiment with different thicknesses of upholstery foam. The seat back has got to be thin, too -- for room. But it has to have enough rake that's it's comfortable. Mock up the seat, then cut a circle out of cardboard the diameter of your wheel. Stick it to a length of ABS pipe and diddle around till you get your column angle, column drop location and everything sorted out. Seriously, these rpus are all about poaching every millimeter you can. Good luck.
Thank you Detonator! I am in awe of your rpu. I have saved pictures of the interior already a couple months ago. Your attention to detail shows through. Thanks again Dale
There is another problem besides my arm getting pinched in a door gap that I have run into with Ts and As. Steering wheel diameter is critical if you are going to mount the wheel down low or in a more modern (I use the term loosely here) position. You need to watch for knuckle to door clearance (please don't ask). Big wheel and low mount can cause some serious problems in a narrow vehicle.
With any windshield mods, you might want to start with the cushion on the floor level. Yeah, it may be uncomfortable leg postioning, but this is one of the smallest factory cockpits.
Her are some pics of my 29. I am 6'1" and about 210. I am reasonably comfortable (for a RPU). My seat bottom is 8" at the tallest part, the front bolster. The bottom of the steering wheel is 19" from the floor and the wheel is 15" diameter.
Here's a 30 year old pic with a stock 66 mustang column. Still running it today. I'm just shy of 6 ft, 170 or so. Seat is repo bottom and stock seat riser. Second pic is the way it is today
New seat springs are available from Car-Line Mfg. in Beaumont TX. PH:409-833-9747. Seat cushion and seat back rest are both available. He also sells the seat riser. One bit of advice, don't make the mistake that many folks do when determining seat ride height and control positions. Seat springs compress when you're sitting on them and they are padded with various thicknesses of foam, horsehair, cotton batting, etc. So it is to your advantage to buy the seat springs first and have something "real" to work with rather than stacks of books, milk crates etc. Seat and control positioning are the most important for you to do correctly for YOUR comfort and safety. The suspension working properly is number two. Comfortable controls make the car safer by making steering and braking instantly available. Speed is fun but if you can't safely steer and stop it means nothing.
Good advice from Pasadena -- use the real stuff. And IMHO you DON'T want to be sitting on the floor. Driving your car will be like doing an NFL pre-game leg exercise - especially in traffic. Try sitting on your living room floor and raising your legs up and down to get to the pedals. Now do this for 15 minutes, that's about how long the fun will last driving your car. Just my 2¢
If you are using a bare spring to determine seat height, how many inches would you add for upholstery to get the correct height ?
Heres the real skinny,Its what ever is comfortable for you,Youll be the one driving your car ,So dont just go with someone elses magic number mock up a seat ,Block up till you feel comfortable,Keep in mind your ass should be lower than your legs and hold a wheel in your hand .thats where your column should be......
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