im wondering if i should run a 40 or a 39 pedal assembly in my 32 frame with stock k member? any input would be appreciated and i would love to see some mounted pictures with the clutch linkage hooked up... just to get an idea. thanks rich
Why not use a '32 pedal set? It will bolt right in and can be easily modified to use hydraulic brakes.
Yeah. You gotta use the stock 32 set up! Works perfect. Make a plate to adhere a 39 master cyl. Done! 39 pedal, your cutting into a K member.
NO other set will match the angle of the K, though '33-4 is very close and could likely be adapted. '39 type requires a good deal of cutting. It basically is slightly wrong almost every way possible. The '32 assembly can be adapted to hydraulic use quite a few ways...welded tab and bracket (Ansen style), cylinder on left with no major cutting and welding (Klaz style), several ways in several locations working cylinder off of '32 cross shaft, bolt-in conversion kit from Early V8 Garage, and probably others I've never seen. Buying a real or repro (from the German guy, someone has a better memory than I do!) '32 pedal kit is expensive but I tink worth it in terms of work and destruction avoided.
Not the greatest pic. From my IPhone.. But they are 32 pedals modified (rotate the brake tab and reweld) to run juice brakes. You can see the master mount in the pics.. I do simple fab work.. Car previously had 39 pedals but they werent as good fitting as 32 pedals are better fit.. Tom
Thanks guys I was also thinking about the stock pedal assembly but for some reason I had thought the 40 was a bolt in deal... I'll be buying a stock 32 pedal assembly now.
They are hard to find these days. If you can't find, there was a guy here making them from scratch. Search I'll ask some pals if anyone has any
I would like to second the suggestion to check out the kit that Richard Lacy (earlyv8@aol.com, (626) 338-2282)) makes. I did one thirty years ago that was different but worked well. If I had it to do again, I would use Richard's kit. Charlie Stephens
Go ahead and move the tab. It's been done since the beginning of time. The quote above assumes you can't weld.
I used the stock '32 set-up but with a twist: I drilled the pedal housing thru and welded bushings in the holes to accomodate a jack shaft. Then built a bell crank and mounted it on the shaft. Using the stock tab on the brake pedal hooked to the upper lever on the bell crank causes the lower lever to move toward the rear-directly in line with the M.C. which is mounted directly on the back of the K member. This allows the M.C to be tucked up out of the line of sight.
Replace the brake pedal with an F1 brake pedal......no cutting and welding required if you dont feel comfortable with doing that. The only change you need to make is grinding the width of the pivot boss.
Here's my version. The shaft comes close to the transmission, but no problem. The design could certainly be refined. These pics are poor - R&D reference, HAHA.
I used a modified set of 1934 pedals in my 1932 roadster so that I would not have a problem using a 1940 Ford column shift.
This is either a kit from the Early V8 Garage or a complete copycat of the system we designed and have been manufactuing and selling since 1996. Please elaborate if you purchased this or made it yourself. If you did copy it then you must have had a kit available to do so. Either way, you should not take the credit for designing it because you did not.
The bellcrank on my pedal assembly was there when I bought the car. The car had passed through a number of owners, and was barely driveable, in part due to poor pedal geometry in relation to the body (glass body, recessed firewall, removable floor front section that was designed for an automatic). The pictures I took were for reference during dis-assembly. The one with the pin in the upper hole was a first attempt to cure the mis-alignment and see if the pedal would even return. Many small details on this car such as this brake arm showed real promise, but were poorly executed and improperly assembled. The pedal bracket had been ground and shimmed crooked in an attempt to get brake pedal travel and clearance for the anti-chatter rod. The brake bellcrank was crude, the upper hole was way out of register with the brake pedal arm hole, and had caused the bushing to wear and bind to the point where the pedal would not return properly. This was not professionally made or assembled. I welded and re-drilled the bellcrank, made a mounting spacer to locate the pedals better in relation to the floor, changed the clutch and brake rods and return springs. I'm sorry if the term R&D was wrong, but it took a number of tries and felt like R&D - some body had to do it. My intention was to post some pictures and clarify the concept, not take credit for the original design. I stand corrected. Here's an example of what I'd call my fan idler. The top with the chintzy 7 ball bearings was on the engine - good idea, poor execution. The bottom made from two generator front frames, tapered roller bearings, with a big ball bearing supporting the rear is my improved version. That's also my version of a Ford fan. I didn't design either one, but I feel like they're mine, too.
Thanks for elaborating on your brake setup. The original builder must have purchased it from us years ago or maybe they copied the design. I can see where a fiberglass body with recessed firewall and different floor configuration would cause major problems with stock pedals. As for the mis-alignement of the lever with the hole in the pedal arm: Having rebuilt many sets of '32 pedals for our customers we have concluded that there are 2 variations on the bake pedal, the less common with the pedal arm being slightly longer and therefor the hole in it about 1/8" too high. The pedals with longer arms show up very few-and-far between. We have also seen quite a few pedals where the arm has become mis-shaped for one reason or another and requires shaping back to original. When we make the long lever we match-drill the upper hole to an original set of pedals. 99% of the time the hole lines up perfect (as long as the shape of the pedal arm is correct) but due to production tollerances and the hand full of odd pedals out there it is sometimes necessary to file the hole for perfect alignment.
This works just Fine http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=426425&d=1205923390
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