The ratios are as follows: The Warford: 1st - 1.37:1 2nd - 1:1 3rd - 1:1.363 The Muncie: 1st - 1.792:1 2nd - 1:1 3rd - 1:1.397 The Jumbo Giant: 1st - 1.66:1 2nd - 1:1 3rd - 1:1.357 The Chicago's are a little taller gearing than the other Overdrives units. fortunately for you, mine is apart right now so I could count gear teeth with ease : The Chicago Mark-E [FONT=Verdana,Arial,Helvetica]1st - 1.500:1 2nd - 1:1 3rd - 1:1.556[/FONT] With the Chicago, Final drives on my car are: Final Drive ratio in 1st is 6.23 to 1 Final Drive ratio in 2nd is 3.63 to 1 Final Drive ratio in 3rd is 2.77 to 1 As a T guy myself, adding that alternator is one of the BEST things you can do...especially if you drive your T. Those generators are only 6V and do not have the amp output capable of both charging the battery AND supporting the ignition system when the original Magneto is eliminated....they just don't have the "balls" to do it.
Just found this thread- how in the world I missed it!!! Clayton, I'd love to hear more about using a later trans as an OD. Right now, I'm looking for a 40's Chevy trans (synchro gears) and a Laycock OD, but your idea is VERY interesting. Also, Crazybillybob, I have an extra '28 Chevrolet head and know of a HAMBer that's headed to Ohio for Thanksgiving
It is a pretty cool concept. I have an old document I got somewhere that is a all about Model T overdrives. It covers the basics: Warford's, Muncie's and Jumbo Giant's. It also has a great section on building your own "home-made" O.D. unit. The article specifies the use of a '35 to '38 Dodge, Plymouth or DeSoto, but "Any good 3-speed of that size will do" I would be more than happy to email ya the document if you like, just PM your email address.
Rich, I want to follow up on what Clayton said.... The reasons we went to the alternator was eliminating the magneto, Converting from 6V to 12V, Wanting a good hot spark, and Cost. In looking at having the genny rebuild, there are reputable folks asking $300.00 to rebuild a genny. @ $145 the Alternator, wins in the cost, higher output, and reliability race. [QOUTE=Mac the Yankee ]Also, Crazybillybob, I have an extra '28 Chevrolet head and know of a HAMBer that's headed to Ohio for Thanksgiving [/QUOTE] I'm not sure if it would bolt right on... and It just wouldn't be right putting a Chevy under the Hood of a Model T.....but I'll keep it in mind Clayton, Again Thanks for have just the bit of information I've been looking for! Also, Love the new rear lowering setup! We've been talking about how to lower the rear. The flip was pretty much on the list.... but now we may need to "borrow" another Idea from you Thanks all, Bruce
No worries Bruce! You would need an adapter plate, but the '28 Chevrolet head is a CHEAP way to get OHV
Taking Full advantage of the nice weekend we managed to complete the Sand blasting of the Frame. The Hogshead, The Starter, both of the front wheel hubs, and a couple of parts that we missed from the Engine and pan (generator cover and oil pan inspection plate). The Rear Axle was started... but sadly on the second day of blasting, I ran out of Sand, Sunlight and Steam (I was beat) before it was complete. Now I see allot of painting in our future. (and a few more hours of blasting before the rear end will be ready for tear down, clean up and rebuilding).
The Chev head conversions are pretty cool and were a popular setup back in the '20s and '30s, especially when a brand new RAJO was out of financial reach...earning the nickname "The Poor Man's RAJO" These setups were made very easy by Neil Jern's "Thunderbolt" adapter kits..adapting the '23 to '28 Chevrolet 2-port and Oldsmobile 3-port heads to either Model T or Model A engines. I have a '28 Chev head myself and had the intent of doing this conversions...but after reading and hearing stories about flatheads Vs. OHV cars.....most of the time the flathead cars seemed to run circles around the OHV cars when built right I will be working with this new method very soon (this weekend hopefully), so I will have plenty of info, measurements, and drawings for you. Good work on the frame....I'll be looking forward to blasting my frame as well in the next few weeks "Luke.....I am your father..."
This weekend Started off with more Sand blasting. The Rear end is done!.... With the big dirty stuff cleaned up we focused back on the Engine. We got all of the valves adjusted. As well as the Z head installed. To install the Head easily we set the engine back in the pan, temporarily. The Trans bands need relined before it get put back in the pan for good. We played Beat the rain and got the Hogs head Painted a nice Ford blue. And the Frame is now a nice black color
Woha, how'd I miss this? Chop it: And don't forget to kick that front axle out a ways - the wheelbase on a T is too short when you lose the fenders. -Dave
Oh man! Frickin Awesome job!! One of my all time favorite cars! I wish I could find one for that price, the closest I can get a car like that for is 9 grand around here.
Are you crazy!? I say leave it un-cut! When I first drew up the idea for my car I also played around with it as a '26 coupe....unchopped and full fendered on my slammed "gowjob" chassis. ...it looked totally different and HOT! Gotta say though......That pic you made up of Multi's T with a chopped coupe body is awful attractive...Just sayin'
I cant take credit for the Photochop. That was done by HAMBster Russian at my request, as Id always wondered how the spindly T gow look might translate to a closed car. While an unchopped fenderless build doesnt work well in my head, a slammed fendered car definitely does: ala Gabby Garrisons roadster or the anonymous car outside Lees Speed Shop in the early 1930s. Im willing to be proven wrong regarding the fenderless thing, though. -Dave
Sorry to hijack but do you have any details or more pictures of this car? Coolest T I have ever seen.
It's a photoshop based on the Multy Aldrich roadster. Many of us are big fans of that car, and I think the HAMB has one of the best compilations of information on the past, present, and future of the car. Check it out here. -Dave
We've been making Progress over the Last few weeks but It's not been real Photogenic. We've done things like installing the Seals on the Engine. And Clean Greasy Rear end Parts. Oh, yeah We Cracked open the Rear End. All the Parts there in looked in good condition.... They were just covered in Very old Very Rancid Grease/Oil/Mud. In reality the rear Diff should be full of 600W oil it's so thick some folks call it pourable grease... Ours was more of a Mud mixed with Motor oil constancy. All the Parts, Bearings, Gears, Axles, and Eventually the Case will be dropped into the "pool" -A bucket full of Parts cleaning Fluid. To remove the 80years of crude that is on them. Once that's done we'll get this thing reassembled and back under the Car. (Yes The Babit Thrust Washers will be replaced!)
Nice work as always! Make sure to flush all of those parts out VERY well since the rear axle was blasted still assembled (sand has a habit of getting EVERWHERE). Also make sure to use the paper gasket for the rear end halves and Silicone gasket sealant is your friend .....don't skimp on it, you'll thank your self later. And don't forget some good Neoprene or better yet, Watts Outer Oil Seals....the felt seals are awful tend to let the gear oil out all over the wheels and brakes.
So it's been a while since the last update. And I wish that I had a much bigger, Flasher update to make up for lost time.... But I don't. Truth is that with the Holidays, Work, and other responsibilities (other folks busted wrecks) We've not had as much in the garage as we had hoped. We are also to the point where lots of things need to be painted now! problem is we live in Ohio, and it's winter here so they tell me. The temps have been crazy warm for winter, but still low for paint. With the garage only heated by "portable" propane heaters, it takes a bit longer. With that said here we go with the real update. Once we cleaned all the old gunk off the Diff parts we found a minor issue. Can you spot the Problem? If you said the pin that holds the thrust washers is sheared flush your Right! Good thing is this car was not run much like this. All the castings and axles are free of the grooves worn in them you typically see when this happens! Replacement pins have been ordered and will get installed once we get everything ready to reassemble. We also started taking steps to get the motor ready to start for the first time! We Relined the Transmission bands. The old bands looked like they were in ok shape. But they are cotton and have been submerged in some nasty old oil and water type sludge for more years the we feel is safe. So into the trash they go. The new Kevlar bands were riveted to the bands ends first. this leaves a little bubble of material in the middle of the band. The bubble gets worked out and the last rivet gets installed. We did make a few mistakes with the rivets, so additional rivets have to be ordered and installed before The bands can be installed on the drums. Another great find when we tore open the rearend was that the original Hyatt bearings were in great shape! so we'll be reusing them (this also means that I have 4 brand new bearings that I'm looking to sell ) A while back your remember that we were trying to Sand blast some Model A rims to use on this Project. Well after using 150+ Lbs of sand and only getting 1/3 of one wheel sorta gray. We gave up. The Wheels went to a local sand blaster / painter that does heavy equipment. They spent sometime with a BIG sand blast unit and BIG pile of sand. Also they came back nice heavy, industrial sealer primer.. in black of course. The Wheels are not perfect but are already for some paint and rubber. That folks is where we're at. The hope is that sometime in the near future we'll be able to fire the engine up for the first time (there will be video, good or bad), and get a rolling Chassis. We can then dial in the final stance and start the body work. Thanks for stopping by... Bruce
Working toward the Engines first firing we got our Coil in the mail. Yes it's not an Original Coil. It's a True Fire, A microprocessor controlled ignition system. The Car didn't come with coils or even a coil box so we up graded a bit The Coil needs a place to live so we also picked a used coil box on fleaby. When it came in the mail we found that the lid was full of pin holes. So I set to work welding them closed. The more holes I welded closed the more that Opened up. And things started cracking so I decided it was worth the $25 for a repop lid. We'll keep the old one, maybe I'll cut the top out and weld in a new one before we start trying to fix the back deck of the T... you know as Practice Cause based on goose poo above I need all the practice I can get
Ok, if you haven't already chopped it, have you seen this? I know it's quite a bit earlier, but just a thought! Dropped a bit more on a slight rake this thing would be awsome! I can't ever remember seeing Buffalo wires on a coupe before, but you 21" wires would be cool too!
Ok guys, I've ran into a bit of a snag trying to get rubber under lizzy. We went to some "bigger" tires to give us a different look and try and help with the stopping (more rubber in contact with the road). I've got the tires! but I'm having a heck of a time finding tubes for these tires. We're looking to put 19" X 550 on the front and 19" x 700 on the back. and I'm striking out on where to get inner tubes to fit. Anyone have a tip or a hot lead on the place to call? I'm looking for 3 of each. If there this hard to find I may buy more depending on the price. Thanks all, Bruce
Oh yeah, dont chop it!!! I have to admit, that black & white pix of the chopped fenderless coupe looked pretty cool.
I got a little done this weekend..And Messed Up A lot! The New Thrust washer Pins are installed. Here's a little tip, don't break your tap off when trying to remove the old pin! (it's a mistake that took 2.5 hours of drilling to learn ) So I was on a roll, and wanted to get the Engine buttoned up. So I fixed the few bad rivets we had on the trans bands and got the Hogs head to pan seal all siliconed up and the hogs head bolted down. That's about the Time I turned back to the work bench, moved a manual and a rag and found this. Yea, That's the inside Oil line....Outside the motor . The Only saving grace is that I only have silicone on one side of the cork gasket and the bolts are not overly tight. So with a little luck and some delicate removal we should be able to save the gasket, once the silicone that's there is dry. Needless to say... At this point I gave up for the day CBB
Man that`s not good.Your going to have to take the hogs head, pan and trans off to get that oil tube in.Bummer.Are you going to run an outside oil line also?
I'll have to pull the Hogs head and the Trans off. The Inspection cover is still off the Pan so I think I'll be ok there, with the block on the pan...but we'll see. We are running an outside oil line. The One we picked up replaces the Magneto post and a bolt in the timing cover with hollow tubes. Then an 1/8th copper tube joins the two.... Maybe I'll put that on when I'm reassembling everything... That way it will not feel like 3 steps back
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