Follow me along and help me get a 34 roadster ready for a wedding!!

Got the transmission all done and installed. She spins over nice and clicks into gear like a champ.

Started to run the plug wires and ran into a slight problem...seems when I sent the cam in to have ground I sent an early cam core. The snout of the cam sticks out farther then the later ones. Now the distributor will not go on. I didn;t really think about it before now and it is pretty easy to miss. I started thinking I was screwed but after looking online found a spacer that is made for running a crab distributor on an early cam. Got one coming in the mail. I also have a set of NOS rajah ends for the wires.







Also got the crank pulley made. A later crank has a longer crank snout then an early engine, so I cannot use an early pulley. I opted to use a 39-41 pulley and whack the front off right were the washer would seat. Pretty easy task, got it done with the ol sawzall. These pulleys also have a slinger built into the back of them. Beings I am using a modern seal in the timing cover I will have to install a speedy sleeve.

 

I have a set of headers for this thing and need to paint them...has anyone ever used VHT coatings? Any luck? I have used Eastwood brush on coatings, but wondered what else is out there

 

We were talking the other day about how rare it is to see a 34 roadster, yours is turning out nice, keep up the good work ! VHT coatings work well if you do 2 coats and burn it in as the directions state. I did a set of headers in black a few years ago and they still look good !

 

Looking good buddy! That's one fine flatty!

 

Chris, that flatty looks hot! I'm enjoying this build, it's coming together great. Keep up the good work and good luck!

 

Sweet, I picked up a can today, we'll see how it works. It says to "bake" the coating on by letting the car idel for 10 minutes at a time and letting it cool down, then repeating the process a couple times. I gotta get that cam broke in first, so we'll see how well it holds up at 20 miutes running 1800 RPM.

 

Chris I have used that on my Tudor. It works really well. It does need to bake on so to speak. It is definately a soft, light, thin coating. Mine has been on my headers for about 3 years. If you touch anything to it it will "scratch off easily." I had some blowby and it kind of stained the headers in some areas, mine are white. And occasionally I have nicked them with dropped bolts, a screwdriver, even a your fingernail and it will mar them.

I am getting it ready to sell soon and will scuff and reshoot soon.

Knowing your job, you may have it on the shelf, otherwise if you buy from Performance Warehouse, they stock it at around $10 a can.

Is there a chance you can break your motor in on a stand, or at least with a different set of headers?

 

Nice build, good to see how other 34 roadster builds are going. I'm fixing a rough 34 body for a customer in exchange for the running gear and some panel he's not using.
And copying the 1/4's while i have it.
Cheers Steve.

 

I have an extra gasket set..

 

Oops, I missed the package on the doorstep post. I'm wondering what is next in this plan of yours. Honeymoon w the 34 in Vantage on the Flathead Run?

 

If it was up to me, I'd drop them off at Kim's to get nickel plated. Heck, I'll even offer to do all the prep sanding on them if you're really going to do it! Or it might look cool you could find a silver colored hi-temp paint that closely matched the finish on the intake and heads.

 

Thanks Billy, I really appreciate it but I am just too broke for plating. There's all kinds of stuff I want to plate on this thing, but this go round, it's just not in the cards unless you think they can be nickle plated for under 100.00


Speaking of, I did get them coated tonight, and started cleaning the frame. It was painted very nice, but has been covered in dirt and dust from over the years.

 

Chris, what's going on with that rad.? It looks like a B top, and a V8 bottom?

 

No, it's a regular V8, looks just like the one one in my pickup...

 

Looking good dude. I like those headers in black. Wait to dip them in nickel when you get fenders on it.

Looking at your radiator and front crossmember I can see how flattening it in my case would screw up the bottom tank on the radiator.

 

I like em' black too. (that's what she said...)

Yea, the only reason I flattened mine is that the crossmember was so eff'd to begin with. flattening = custom radiator... Don't do it if you don't have to!

 

I'm not dropping an axle so I was just trying to come up with some ideas to get it sitting right. Chris has a drop axle sitting on his floor just itching to go in and he told me next weekend it'll be in so let's all hold him to it!!!

 

No asshole, I said I'm not messing with the suspension until the engine was in. No sense in trying to figure out ride height with no weight in it Hope to dump it in this weekend, and then hope to start on the front end next week!

As far as the front cross member, I wouldn't cut it if you want to run a stock radiator. Reverse the eyes and take a few leafs out... That's good for 2-3"...which is about all your gonna get with a stock axle/frontend

 

Chris,

That is a nice looking car and engine your putting together.

Pretty sure the "S" stands for stock or street replacement head. Meaning that the buyer could just bolt on without fit concerns, and use stock head bolts. Edlebrock and Weiand used the same "S" code for Stock or street and an "R" for race heads. The "F" was probably a code for the compression ratio. Someone that has some old catalogs could probably find it.

 

That's what I said meathead!!! NEXT WEEKEND you're going to put the axle in. Engine hopefully this weekend.

 

Awesome, thanks man!!

 

Chris,

Just a FYI. Here is some more reading on the "S" and "R" configurations.

 

Thanks man, anyone have an old Edmunds catalog??

 

Chris, Neat project!

I used C & B Upholstery on Market street and was very happy with the work.

2 different projects with them and they did great. Thought the pricing was very fair for what they did.

 

Ahhh, that pic made the top look like a downward single outlet to me. Weird.

 

My 32 has a stock axle with reversed eye and some missing springs. Looks nice I think. Not too low or too high

 

I too would suggest not pancaking the front crossmember Jeffy,due to modifying the rad. Exspensive usually! I rented a new shop from a radiator pal, he's pretty fair though. If you have a bum core, then you can section and lower the rad top, as your paying anyway. Only if your trying to pull out all the tricks. Not me, I don't like them to low. I like your 33 and the way it sits! More chop!

 

Well then I know what I must do because your roadster is one of my inspirations.....even if I'm building a lame coupe circa '41-'46 that probably never existed. I'll get to that in a few weeks I think.


Until then I'm gonna sit back and take Chris' roadster in and let it simmer in my mentals.

 

Haven't you got the engine in it yet?!?!? That headder paint has got be dry by now... Come on you slacker!

 

Even Superman had a day job.