Projects 41 plymouth coupe 392 hemi build thread

X2, looks awesome for 71 years old!

 

I think that's the difference between "beautiful" and "BeeYooteefuuullll"!
Had to jump back and forth between the two images a few times for the full effect. lol

 

nice ride.love long big fenders.....thanks again

 

No problems, good to see you like the car gmpartsgod.

 

Great score for you friend, Eric. But I like yours better.

 

Thank you BrerHair. Like mentioned before, a side by side photoshoot would look great.

 

A buddy of mine came over last saturday morning and we pretty much worked out how the brake lines, air lines and exhaust need to be routed. We then got to the front and my endless struggle to find a proper position for the alternator. Now one thing I don't want, is to mount it on top of the engine. So we looked at different option and concluded that it's going to be just above the steering linkage. (driver side) Positioned on the other side would interfere with the water inlet. In order for all the pullies to line up, I would need to move the radiator even further forward, which I don't really want.

So, what's the plan?? Mount an electric waterpump and basically only have the crankshaft pulley drive the alernator! The crankshaft pulley will need to be mounted forward (or use a 2 or 3 belt pulley) and the alternator can be mounted out of sight.

Now I don't have any experience with electric water pumps, so if someone does, please post. The one I'm looking at is from Meziere, a 35 gpm big block chevy pump. (I have a bbc waterpump on there at the moment.) The second pic shows the alternator on the correct side, but mounted far too low. The new position is going to be higher, closer to the head. Any input/experience regarding electric water pumps is appreciated! Thanks, Eric

Just a side note: I could also get another alternator........but I'm just looking at all my options.

 

Sweet! Take some good pictures and email them to me. Especially of the interior!

 

Anything specific you want a pic of?

 

that '41 of your friend is a sweet car...CONGRATS...if some parts are missing let me know...might be I still got things packed away that are useful for him and are obsolete for me.

 

Thanks for the offer Jochen, I'll ask him what he may still need.

 

Hey man! Been checking this out for awhile. This car is insane! Nice work! Response to your questions below...

One thing you don't need is MORE flow for these engines. Chrysler had it right with their water pumps and cooling systems. So I would discourage any increase in flow unless you really need it. HOWEVER! I can certainly understand your position and if makes everything easier I'm certainly not going to say I wouldn't consider it either. It adds a failure potential to the mix (a low one) since it's more likely to fail than a standard mechanical one, not to mention the price, but if you weigh it all out and the added cost makes your life easier and works visually for you, then give it a go. Keeping it simple sometimes means interrupting a certain visual. Your car is VERY high profile and as long as you can live with what is being seen and it solves your problem then I think you know the answer. But... If it's NOT the visual presentation you want, then just make your own bracketry and mount that little alternator right where you need it. It's a full fendered car, so there are a hundred different ways to pull it off.

A direct answer to your question... Yes, an electric pump should work. What you're looking for visually is up to you.

Bitchin build! Looking forward to the end product! Is there a video of that Hemi running somewhere that I missed??

 

Thank you for your in depth explanation scootermcrad! You are and will remain one of the best Hemi guru out there! The reason I'm considering (which is not aesthetically) an electric pump, is that a bracket, in combination with a narrow front end and getting the pullies to line up is proving difficult without moving the radiator forward. Trust me, I'm looking at all the possibilities and have been trying to make the "original" set up work. I've got some more time tomorrow in the garage to have yet another look. Thank you once again for your in depth answer.

Here is a vid of the initial start up that you missed.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bynIPFTZK9Q

 

Wow!! YEAH!!! That rules for sure!!

Yeah, I totally know what you're saying on the bracket thing. Tough situation for sure...

"Best Hemi Guru"?? MMmm... Not sure about that, but I certainly love these Elephant motors and I'm just trying to learn like everyone else. But, thanks!

 

The dash, especially the glove compartment lid. The seat and the door panels, too. I have a friend who is going to do the wood training for me and I would like to see how the original looked. I may, or may not try to copy the look of the upholstery.

I would like to see a close up of how the running board attaches to the fenders, too. Is there a washer against the paint? I made some spacers but I know they will crack the paint if I tighten them down.

Thanks!

 

No problem Rock! I'll see the car again next month and will take your "shopping list" with me. There are also some things I need to get a closer look at as well!

 

Well it was back into the garage the day to tackle the drivers side garnish moulding. The first pic shows what I started out with....anyway, got the bottom half done and its off to the top section tomorrow.

And got a package today with the running board brackets which I didn't have. I bought them on Ebay and they were sand blasted. Looks like I'll need to modify them in order to make them fit. Anyone know the exact location of these brackets?

 

i just joined, but it looks like I'll need a day or 6 to read this build thread.LOL. From what I can see, this is going to be one awesome ride!!

 

After you bolt on your running boards, it should be evident. I forgot, did you mod the stock chassis or build a new one. There are holes in the stock chassis for the brackets. I had to shorten the cross races to get mine to sit high enough. I guess they had been bent and stretched over the years. If you need exact dimensions, give me a reference point and I can get them for you, as mine are on the car for the moment.

 

Had a spare few hours today, so it was back to the very exciting garnish moulding. Yes! Made an additional cut to get an even better radius, welded it all up and smoothed it. Gave it some primer and will finish it off tomorrow.

 

Check around for the smallest alternator you can find, also. Modern Japanese cars have some small ones; Denso makes some that are fairly tiny, and there are probably other brands as well. You might be able to tuck it somewhere?

Pic of small high-output alternator here:
http://www.s-10crewcab.net/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=2948

 

Thank you BFC! They are certainly a little smaller. The one I have now measures nearly 6 inches from the belt centerline to the rear of the housing, so I suppose there is room for improvement. I'll keep looking before I give up.

 

Hi,
On my 1957 392 I used March brackets to put the alternator and power steering pump down low. I am using Edelbrock/Chevy water pump. I had to make only one bracket arm.
If you spend some time looking at the March pulley stuff you will see how to adapt their brackets.

Jan in Ojai, CA

 

Thank you Jan, I'll certainly take a look!

 

I did a little more checking, see if you have a Suziki Swift alternator available. They are tiny but have larger built-in bracket - if the brackets could be modified and you'd end up with a small package.





(pic from here: http://rideyourpimp.com/blog/suzuki...er-mini/attachment/41ewzgiz-wl-_sl500_aa300_/ )

 

Thank you once again BFC. Still looking at all the options.......I talked to Eric at Hemi Hot Heads last night and I can also get dual groove pullies for my waterpump and crank. This offset will also give me the required space. Option, option, options.....

 

The garnish moulding saga continues.....Made some relief cuts in order to get the correct angle and mated the two ends together. Welded it all up and got the old grinder out once more. It is a close fit, but I got it in the window frame. I still need to fine tune a few things with a hammer and dolly and weld up a few cuts at the back. Unfortunately I'm off to work now and will finally finish it on monday. So guys, if you're contemplating chopping garnish mouldings, calculate about 12-14 hours each side. At least this is how long it took me.......yes, I know, I'm a fussy person.

 

Looks good,i know it takes some time but i think chopping the garnish mouldings is a fun job.Not like scraping over 60 yrs old crap from the floors.Keep it up!

 

Thanks Finnrodder! It is fun work but I'm lucky I don't have a four door!

 

Finished the last welding on the garnish moulding and gave it some primer. Next I moved on to the door. Cleaned up some of the welds and gave it some primer as well. When it's dry tomorrow, I'll sand it and look for the high and low spots. Going to cut out the terrible v shape near the door handle as well(done by PO) and weld it up properly this time. Looks like I'll need a couple of days to finish this door.....