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Anyone attemptin a Truly Period PERFECT Build?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by dlotraf, Feb 5, 2012.

  1. So off to the negative just for a side trip, a real mechanic has the proper tools. A shade tree mechanic tried to do everything as cheap as possible and often didn't have the correct tool for the job.

    I just thought that I should clear that up as the Ol' Man was a real mechanic and I after him.

    One of the things that you are overlooking is that rodders have always been resourceful, many of us have been able to get our louvers punched on a real louver press, as opposed to using a hammer and chisel to try and punch louvers for example. Machine work used to get done as well, granted most of the ol' timers (young guys back then) didn't have a complete machine shop in their driveway, but they seemed to know where to get the work done and a lot of times they did it them selves on someone else's equipment. I still do that today by the way, I have never owned a machine shop but have always known where I could get use of one.

    OK all the negativity aside. I use a MIG welder these days but still own a torch to weld and use it when I have gas for a lot of things. Somethings just need to be gas welded to be right.

    I guess I cannot build a traditional rod because I do have the proper tools for the job, most of the time.

    I do like your concept of doing everything the best you can with what you have at hand. It has been done that way a lot by a lot of fellas and I have done it that way myself when the need arose.

    They used to have a concourse cl*** where you car had to be done exactly they way it would have been done at the factory. So aside from being factory perfect you had to have a video of the ***embly of the vehicle, if it went down the line backward for instance your video had better show it being dragged or rolled down a makeshift ***embly line that way and you got points for being as close as possible to the original ***embly of the vehicle.

    May make for interesting building of a rod to try and collect original tools from the period to do the job and keep perfect records of everything that was done and how it was done to make it a period perfect build. I can't wait to see someone do it that way.

    I do like your angle on it. Never the less I am going to build the way I was taught to build using as many of the proper tools as I have at hand.
     
  2. thunderbirdesq
    Joined: Feb 15, 2006
    Posts: 7,091

    thunderbirdesq
    Member

    pretty close... with a few minor exceptions maybe? new radiator... modern paint... used a mig for the ch***is, but all the bodywork was gas welded.

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    303racer likes this.
  3. hotrod1940
    Joined: Aug 2, 2005
    Posts: 4,064

    hotrod1940
    Member

    I had a TIG in 1965 in my sign company and used it to weld steel and aluminum extrusions. It was not a complicated Mig machine and had no nozzle spewing out filler rod. You used a stick rod compatible with what you were welding. Tungsten is not a consumable, just an electrode.
    Used Argon just like today.
    It was a large welder that could also do stick weld, water cooled, with a foot pedal, just like the modern machines of today.
    Don't know where you got your info.
     
  4. That complicated "mig machine " you reference is not a MIG machine or any type of MIG (smaw) at all. It is known as a Tig Hot Wire and was patented in 1962. (21 years after the first tig was patented and welded countless aluminium planes) It is 100% tungsten inert gas welding aka TIGW or TIG for short. Still alive and well today. Most set UPS were for automatic type welding and later, oh about 1969 that same set up was developed for hand torches. Check the welding supply store and you can get a brand new hand held tig hot wire set up in your shop tomorrow. Probably next week if you want an automatic unit.

    Not picking on you or your post, its just bad info that your p***ing on. Forget where you heard that because its false. :)
     
  5. Wildcycles
    Joined: Sep 17, 2007
    Posts: 335

    Wildcycles
    Member

    OK, so I'm gonna take a crack at answering the original question and try not to get too far away from it...

    My current project is a 1935 Ford five window coupe and YES, I thought I wanted to build a "period correct" custom. The period being 1956-58. Knowing that customs evolved over time, it could be a car that was started in the late 1940's. My car actually WAS started sometime in the 1950's or 60's with a 3" chop... Some gas welded and some MIG.

    With that being said, I started to struggle with all of the different things that would be period correct. For example, I have two banjo rear ends.. Defineately period, but do I use one? The Ford 9" was available in 1957 and a much better rear end... So, do I find one that IS a 1957?

    Then there's the engine/trans... I started off with a 1955-56 265 Chevy V8. Also correct, but I started thinking about the 324 Olds I had... It's a 1956 and a little more "cool" than the sbc. Transmission? Full syncro would be nice...Then there's the brakes... Do I use '40 ford or self-energizing 1956 F-100? Suspension? I have a dropped axle, but it's not a Mor-drop, so do I throw it away and talk my buddy out of the one he has?

    I am working on the car in a friend's shop that's full of period stuff, including tools, parts and even HIM! He's 73 and has been building cars his whole life. He even had his own hotrod shop before I was born. We can just walk over and look at cars he built back then and since modified or not... Hundreds of pictures, his memories of "How we did it back then" I have used a number of parts he contributed, his knowledge, experience and good humor too.

    Another friend helped me rechop the car, but we used a modern cut-off wheel.. (end of period PERFECT build) ... and a MIG welder... I'm doomed!

    I have some coveted body and fender tools that were a gift from an old man that purchased them new in Chicago back in 1948. I even have the hat he wore with garage name on it where he worked. It's placed neatly in the top of the old Snap-On box he bought around the same time...He's gone now and when I have used them I think of it like he is helping me somehow...

    No, I guess my car won't be period PERFECT, but I defineately understand the concept. I will have a car that looks something like it could have been built back then.
    It will certainly be influenced by the era, the people I've known and some new friends too.

    Great thread... thanks for provoking thoughts... I have enjoyed reading along.
     
  6. Ya know I never actually gave that much thought. I do happen to have an old pair of my ol' man's coveralls and a pin striped sear ****er shirt with the sleeves cut off and his name over the pocket that he used back in the '50s. maybe I should wear them when I work on my cars to make them more period correct. Naw that wouldn't work my name isn't JC and he was a real mechanic, he used the proper tools.

    The question becomes where do you draw the line, do you use proper tools or do you use a hacksaw blade with electric tape wrapped around it. can it be modern electric tape or do you have to find an old hack saw blade and old tape.

    I understand the idea that the OP is trying to convey but then you run on to the rediculas. I remember a while back when a poster said that to be truley period correct you had to only use parts from the period as in manufactured in the correst period. I'm thinking I'm in pretty good shape as I just happen to have some valve stems for my tires NOS from the period of my build but I am damned if I know where to find 60 year old air to put in my tires.
     
  7. I tried. Front 1/2 of 27 "T" touring narrowed 8" Model a (midget) Halibrand, fuel tank is a dicer tank from a WW2 B 24 bomber 38 Lincoln Zephyr side shift trans 32 34 B engine with an original Riley 2 port head dated 4 8 30 with Winfield BBD carbs on an intake manifold cast from original patterns.

    The list goes on but to be realistic it would be almost impossible to build a car using the prewar methods, materials, and tools. In those days a ratchet was hard to find in the average guy's garage let alone any kind of welding equipment or a hydraulic jack. Not everyone had an electric drill motor. Every one had hammers, chisels, and files plus Ford tools wrenches and screw drivers, screw jacks.
     

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  8. exStreamliner
    Joined: Apr 7, 2009
    Posts: 1,553

    exStreamliner
    Member

    I submitted a "how to" for careyohio on the building a V'd roadster windshield for the upcoming Baileigh - Tech Week contest... no high tech tools in this build... but, I'm sure he could find a use for something on the next project... I know I'd appreciate your comments since he was caught off guard and was really surprised by the responses so far... I'm glad I'm not the only one impressed with his talent for creating an era correct whindshield

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=678500

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    Although, Gene was to busy to comment...

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  9. freiertpc
    Joined: Nov 5, 2006
    Posts: 111

    freiertpc
    Member

    I'm almost finished collecting parts for my Custom 53 belair but I'm havind trouble finding a decent priced rear diff. and might just try to find and install a 53 vette center in my axle to get open drive,Just got a 57' 283 w/camel humps and all early 60's carter 625 and hp fuel pump,and an Edelbrock streetmaster intake,running to an old racing bell and a 58 sag 3spd. doing the metal work traditionally is easier then finding the parts i think
     
  10. OoltewahSpeedShop
    Joined: Oct 18, 2007
    Posts: 3,103

    OoltewahSpeedShop
    Member

    Basically the same other than tires, paint, and alternator since '63.
     

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  11. 7ate9
    Joined: Aug 26, 2009
    Posts: 75

    7ate9
    Member
    from Maine

    My '37 Ford pickup build is a period correct build (or darn close) I gas welded all the sheet metal work with the torch and steel rod, and used an antique forney stick welder on the frame (be it that's all I had for a stick haha) It was awful tempting to use the MIG at times, and I must admit I probably did a few times... I'm also trying to stick with parts that were only available before '64ish, or home made. At times I've debating on deviating from the time period thing, especially when safety is a concern, so far the only thing I strayed on was the brake master cylinder set up..
     

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