****Feb 2012 Banger Meet.....Cupid is up for some Bang'n*****

4" bore x 45/8" stroke X 4 = 234.478 or 3.8 liters

 

I've broken two 4 5/8" stroked cranks. Not worth the cost.
Used stock length rods with custom Ross pistons. Minor mods to rods to clear the cam. A sized rod journals.

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My stroker was 4.125" bore x 4.625" stroke.
Last time it broke it took out the rear main too.

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4.125 bore! Musta been hard to hold a head gasket. Gawd! That was about 247 inches!

 

Offset bore Bill

I think strokers can last provided you use the longest/lightest rods which means small pin. Jack Sparks once told me the width of the rod's blade was determined by the wrist pin's Dia, So when you reduce the Dia you not only make a longer rod but a lighter rod. Longer rods reduce skirt load which means you can make a shorter lighter piston.

Narrow rings in a pinched 3 ring stack, meaning 1) less friction 2) better seal

You can never get BDC and TDC the same degrees but TDC degrees get longer. The piston is more stable at TDC

These are all small details but together the rewards in not only HP but also a ''Free reving'' engine. That's good for the crank

If you having a crank made you can spec the main/rod and stroke. AND you choose the counter weight placement, weight, size

If you are lucky enough to have a D.O. Head you don't have the cam in the way.

I think the cost of all this is somewhat justified in less total motor distruction...

If you want to go fast ..... your cost is always above what the next guy will spend to beat you

 

Hey Fellas! Blew trans up being a little hard on her! I picked up 2 transmissions and a high/low unit real cheap! Also picked up a "B" Banger, which I have some plans for. Not much else goin' on, waiting for the weather to warm up to swap the trans out!

JS

 

Thanks for he input Bluto I was thinking a longer rod would take some of the stress off the crank.
My B engine will not be stoked but I still had Ross pistons do a little milling and add a lighter thinner pin in hopes of keeping the stress of the stock crank.

 

You could have reduced the pin Dia and therefore total piston weight with a smaller rod bushing. But now that you already have the pistons made no chance of that

 

I thought it was time for a non-Ford picture again. So here is the Dodge. This is the mounted fuel and oil pumps. May not look like much, but took me a lot of thinking with two pumps in hand. I guess it's getting time to bolt the head on.

 

Is that a stock dodge distributor?

 

No. It's a Bosch as used in a Pinto and air cooled VW. If you like one, two is even better.

 

I just thought the one in the photo looked "vintage".

 

Scat crankshafts revisited,
Scat offers a stock 4.250 and a 4.375 and a 4.500 stroke A crank. 4.500 stroker crank, drilled, balanced, with 6 bolt mounting flange, quoted at $2000. 6 week delivery They have made rods and inserts in the past not sure if rods and inserts are a stock item anyway no price quoted on those items.

Quote from Tom Lieb

 

Bluto

Care to explain a "pinched stack " of rings? All in one wide groove?

I've put two half groove wide compression rings in one groove, but never thought to try to get an oil ring in the same groove as the compression rings.

Herb

 

Notice the correction, $2000 price was quoted on the 4.500 stroke crank total with the other modifications included. I assume the price is the same for both 4.375 and 4.500 but that is just my assumption.

 

Herb

Pinched stack refers to less number of rings of smaller width packed closer together.

Typically I use a 4 to 5 piece oil ring with a very thin rail forming the top and bottom.

Deves were the best and used them for years till the firm was sold resulting in useless sales people.

I test the oil ring drag by installing it on the piston inserting the piston upside down in the bore and pulling with a good fishing scale. Don't ask me how much I did this a long time ago. The result was Deves #1 but not always the size called for by them

 

Anyone have a picture of a Riley Two Port Head with a Wico Mag.? I was just wondering if the riser is required to clear the covers, as it is when using the Mallory dizzy ?
Thanks, Ron

 

Bill, I Just picked up one of these heads. I know nothing bout them, and info on the net is super scarce. Are they all 6.1 to 1 or do they vary.

Can you shed some light? And how were you able to accurately identify that it was indeed that ratio.

 

Thought I'd post my '31 roadster over here before putting on the board...









Please p.m. for further info....thanks

still needs paint/body work...lights/rear brake rods hooked up...title in my name..18.5K...

 

Dudley32 Now thats a great looking car its just a classic all rounder.

 

thanks...a lot of work and I hate to sell...but!!

I would really like for someone to personally look at car....I hate to buy /or sell with pics...

 

I have no info sorry.
A guy at a show wanted to by it real bad said it should be 7. To 1 or higher but it's not so he was talking out his ass

My buddy's engine shop has this machine that pumps air into the cylinder you tell it the bore and stroke and even the temp of the engine. ( shooting inside the spark plug hole it was 115 @ the time) Then you turn the engine over by hand real slow. It pushes air back and Like magic it tells you. He said that is was a $4000 little box but all his race engines at the circle tracks test his engines with one so if you want to get the max
you need that same tool

Sorry not much help
I just know its good to have the right friends

 

Great machines but will not work on flathead engines unless you can keep the valves from opening in some way.

 

Interesting, is there a chance that back then the aftermarket heads could of been more than 6 to one?
I want to run it but don't want to do my motor in.

 

question help : having trouble figuring gear ratio . tried all the charts , but just cant get my head around it . model "A" ... 3.78 gears , t5 5 speed with .78 od . need rpm at 65 mph please

 

Multiply the 3.78 times .78=2.95....overall You need tire size for RPM

 

I talked to Charlie Yapp regarding the Simmons Super Power Head.
He said they are an excellent head and are generally 6.1 to 1 give or take depending on manufacturing variences. I am going to get it magnufluxed and see what I come up with, if the shop has capabilities of telling me what CC's the chamber is, I can reference that to other known heads on the market and confirm the compression ratio.

Thanks guys, and I will report back.

 

With 600/16 s ( 28.5 tall) about 2250rpm

If your tires are 30.5 " tall i.e 700/16 or stock 21" or 1000/16 cheater slicks about 2100 rpm

Here is an easy calculator
http://wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_speed_rpm.htm

 

Why don't you show them the roto faze?

 

All you need is a piece of plexiglass , a graduated syringe and some liquid to cc the combustion chamber...after that it's just a calculation!!

There are instructions andworksheet for calculations on this page... you can make the kit up of stuff lying around , no need to buy one.

http://www.steigerperformance.com/products/sp90005.html