Features The Official 60-66 C-10 Chevy Truck Picture Thread

I got mine all cleaned up and ready for car season to start next month.

 

Now that is original! A bricklayers rear viewmiror!

 

Keep us posted with the build, creative lowering, looking forward to the progress. Mine needs some lowering.

 

Here's my 63 GMC 1000 daily driver. 307/TH400 auto.

 

A '61 is easy to lower the front as it has adjustable torsion bars. I added longer bolts at the rear or the bars and this will get it down to the rubber nubs on the A-arms if I want. But with the weight of the engine, having dropped the radiator mounts, I found that I have to adjust the frame back up a bit. But the body still sits way low due to the channel.
I had blocks in the rear previously, but had a scrub line problem. Because I am going to expose the frame in the rear a bit this time, I decided to move the springs off of the trailing arms to behind the axle. This way I can keep the springs the same height and keep the same ride quality, but can raise the top spring mount up inside the frame to get the back down.

 

I recently rebuilt this model. I added it to the Sunday models thread, but thought it might fit in here too.





It's supposed to look like this:

 

I think it's cool. Good job.

 

Is the original yours or inspiration, awesome detail.

 

Just scored a killer deal on a freshly rebuilt 327 for her '65. It'll been revving her along this cruise season.....

 

Thanks for the insite, great ingenuity. Can you elaborate on the longer bolts and how they help lower the nose. I have a '68 Dart and want get it a little lower? Sorry guys for the following pic

 

Thanks!

That's really my old beater.

 

Guy from a local club's truck

 

OK, hope this helps. The torsion bar is attached to the A arm near the pivot point on the frame. As the tire raises and lowers, the torsion bar twists accordingly. The twist is transmitted to the rear of the bar, which is attached to a short stationary arm which is mounted to the frame and resists the twist initiated by the A arm end. On the other end (toward vehicle center)of this short arm is the bolt that I referred to. It connects the frame crossmember and the short arm. Hopefully, you can see from my crude drawing, that as the bolt is lengthened, the other end of the short arm pivots slightly, the twist on the torsion bar is decreased, which decreases the force on the A arm, which in turn allows the wheel to raise in relationship to the frame. This in effect, lowers the vehicle. I lengthened the bolt by replacing it with a longer grade 8 bolt. After you get your ride height where you want it, be sure to realign you front end to prolong you tire life. ~WX1

 

Here's a pic of my 63 C10 Panel truck

 

Still working on it...

 

Thanks, I understand the mechanism, unsure on how the longer bolt helps. I'll have to get under the car and look. I assumed less bolt length would lower it more. Thanks for the Great illustration.

The Dart set up looks like this, its like a big allen key on the end.

 

OK Think of it like a seesaw; when one side goes up, the other side goes down. Think of the torsion bar as the pivot point. Adjust the allen key untill the ride height is where you want it. If you run out of adjustment, get a longer adjusting bolt.

 

Thanks Wolf, any pics of your '39? Looks cool

 

There's a couple of pics on page 45 of the "Who has a strait 6 in your hot rod?" thread. It's was in the original Hot Rod Flatz blue, but you can get the idea. My computer crashed hard before Christmas and I lost all my good pics. I'll take some more in the spring when things turn green again.

 

Does anyone know where the VIN number is stamped on the frame of the 63 GMC 1/2 ton pick up?

I just went over mine and there's nothing on the DS frame anywhere or PS under the cab.

 

This is real nice!

 

Here's an update on my '61 build.

 

Wow... that red hurts my eyes

 

Yes, you either love it or hate it, but you won't walk past it without giving it a look. It' MF (Massey Furgeson) red available at tractor supply store for $35 a gallon. You can get hardner for it too, to add some more gloss and hardness. It seems pretty forgiving for an amateur painter like me to use, also. The cab is painted with the same type of paint, but in low gloss black.

 

I'm thinking of buying some supremes for my 64, anyone know what size I should buy? I am doing the 5 lug conversion using the front cross member off my 78 parts truck and I'm also using the rear end from the 78 too. Any suggestions? I was thinking of going with 15's but I'm not sure how wide. I'm going for the mild custom look.

 

The 78 rear end is a little wider than the stock 60-66, so you are not going to be able to run much wider than an 8 inch. 7's all the way around would work best I think.
I did 15x8's in rear and 7's in front but I have a '65 rear.

 

A couple more

 

Thanks for the info, I still have the stock 64 rear maybe I will just convert it to 5 lug and keep that rear so I can run wider wheels.

 

i have a 63 short bed frame with air bags. im looking to get a 63 suburban can i put the truck frame under the suburban???......thanks for the help guys !!

 

hey guys .my 62 C10 is a 235 4speed The saginaw has a whine in 1 2 and 3 and I have to double clutch to get into 4th.Is there a way to tell which saginaw it is and therefore which rebuild kit to order without pulling the box out first ? Oh and who sells a decent priced kit?