X2!, needs to be stripped to bare metal, all fabric and absorbent materials disposed of, and good thing with mask and gloves, this sh*t is serious! <sic>, I would soak interior metal with "Odoban" (Home Depot & many other places) to neutralize rat deposits.
I used 3/8 x 4" flat bar came off the crossmember between the rack and crossmember. Made a mounting pad off that if you need more info I can show you what I have. I think I have some pictures of it.
Sorry to hear of your loss of F I L. I'm 74 and hope @81 I'm still as active as your Dad. Just found this thread and you have the makings of a nice car with a straight and solid beginning. I may get flamed, but here's my thoughts on this car. First off, a car this nice deserves a frame off build if you can avoid the self imposed trap of instant gratification. Rat piss is bad **** and all that stuff needs to be cleaned to bare metal or at least sollid paint. No worse though than the oval track car we built about 60 years ago from a Ford '34 3wdw coupe that had been used as a chicken coupe for years. Blast the frame and paint it, then install that MII frt. end, good chice IMO. I wouldn't use that 216, I was around too many of the things in my teens and 20s. Strictly a low speed design, that when subjected to today's driving demands ain't gonna last. Ask me how I know. And now while you're in what should be considered a "mocking up" stage, before a good clean up or blast of the frame is the time to make the change, not after you've got it all together and on the road. I would go with a 230-250-292 along with the T5 and open rear end. I don't care too much myself for what HAMB calls "patina", I call it "Needs Paint ". And now while it's all apart is a great time to clean up stuff when you remove it, then prime and paint to color(s) of your choice. I lived those 40s and 50s, and I don't remember any one around here who built or drove hot rods who didn' at least have a goal of a good paint job if it was a body as nice as yours when they started. It's your car and your choice, but my way, once you finish all you need to do is tinker, maintain, and shine AND RIDE. Dave
Thanks Dave. I know how lucky I am to have my dad with me. It also dont hurt if your helper can quote the bore and stroke of all of these old engines by heart. He can also tell you the lower transmission mounting bolts are 3/8 you going to need a 9/16 before you get under there!!! Wow I cant remember what I had for supper last night. As for the 216 why not? hate to junk it while it still wants to run. I plan to have my dad get started building me a warm 235 as soon as we get this one rolling. Kinda of a test before final ***embly. And for the record I have one that has been off the frame like your talking about love it but dont want you to scratch it. This one you can touch and love all you want thanks Buddy now heres my other coupe "now all you billet haters be nice"
That '37 is beautiful and I don't blame you for being protective of it. A car like that needs to stay in the garage if the sun ain't shining! But I don't mean that you have to go to that degree with your daily driver! Just an underside that you know isn't silently rusting away while you drive it, doesn't need to be hand rubbed super shiny. And give the exterior a decent looking single stage urethane or even a base coat clear coat finish that it deserves. The Hiboy roadster I've almost finished has a POR15 basecoat/topcoat job on the frame and the exterior is an as sprayed single stage urethane finish because I'm planning to drive it and I know what happens with fenderless cars and paint chips! I never heard anybody refer to "patina" back in the day! Dave
Well I thought I was on a roll untill I went to put the late model rearend under the car. The brakes were frozen up when I got one drum off I found I had a 2.79:1 ratio. I dont think my lil motor would like that much gear and the brakes would cost a lot so I am going to look for a better fit. For now I will get back to building a 1/4 inch spacer for the t5 later Buddy out with the old I thought in with the new yuck what a mess and its a what? 2.78 no way lets get on that spacer T5 waiting
I'm not at all sure how far back it went but some Chevys with enclosed driveshaft had an offcenter spring perch hole in the axle pad, somehow or other. I mostly was involved in Ford body hot rods back then and am a little foggy on Chev. details. But anyhow, pay attention to this area, or you will wind up with a rear wheel off center front to back with the wheel well on the body. Dave
Nice Coupe, real nice builder! I'd leave the dipper 216 in it and just drive the rat piss out of it....
I got to do a little work on the coupe sunday. I got the 8" rear end in it. It looks a little high in both front and rear. I think some lowering blocks and cutting a coil might fix that up what do you all think? I had imposed a 30 day deadline to get it up and going this sunday will be 30 days and it looks as if I am not going to make it. I still need a driveshaft and brakes. Oh well better late than never
rear wheel seems like its not centered exactly in the wheel well, looks like it needs to be moved rearward a bit, or maybe that's the way its supposed to be,, other than that, Looks Awesome!
I thought the same thing. I measured that real close that is where chevy put it. I guess that was so if you loaded it and the shackle moves back the wheel will be centered I dont know but that is where chevy put em. I agree .5 or.75 inch back would make it look better this pic is stock location with stock rearend
Yep chevy did put the wheels a little forward in the openings. Moving them back a bit helps the looks.
Did you find Hoffa hidden in there somewhere? Your dad is tearing that thing up, tell him the younger guys out here are learning it can be done with a little time and few busted knuckles, nice find keep the pics coming and I would spray some bleach on the inside and run to the car wash and hose it out.
Ok guys you see the pics so how much should I move the wheels back? and how much if any should I lower the car. I can make the lowering blocks with offset to do both at one time. Lets hear it.
You posted a picture of a red 37, it looks about right. Center the rear in the opening and lower it until the tread of the tire is covered by the fender opening. That should just about do it. My 2cents worth.
Wow had a good afternoon in the shop. I got off work early today called Dad on the way home he almost beat me here. First we turned the car around then We pulled the front boot off then pulled the motor. Installed the 55 bellhousing with the spacer I made, put the t5 on it and put it in the car this afternoon. Not bad for a couple of rookies. Well that got er out someone asked about the front mounts I said would take some pics when I got the motor out here she is all ****oned up now you pick it up then hook it up that all there is to it LOL
Nice fab work on the motor mounts, etc. Keep up the good work! I put the baffle in my lake style exhaust and started the roadster to hear it go rumpty rump ......... weather is getting warmer, can't wait to drive it again.
You are quite likely the only guy in the country running a 216 dipper motor with a 5 speed and M II suspension. Dare to be different. Move the rear end back 3/4" and use 3" blocks. That should look just about right. You and your Dad got that old Chevy on the run.
Yea we are going to warm up a 235 a little later after we get it going. I remember Dad put a LOT of miles on an old 216 when I was a little guy. Never let us down.
I've put a lot of miles on em too. Did you ever notice how many of these things are still around in reasonably good shape? Ford built more cars than Chevy did back in those days. Seems to me that there are more rebuildable 216's today than flathead V-8's without a cracked block. I'm not trying to start a **** storm here, just saying.
(pics of old photos)Just for fun here is some more of my old junk notice the ride hight and rear wheel placement. All stock parts
The Jalopy Journal
