its very easy. swap ball joints, and the half ton spindles fit, to give you a 5 on 5 pattern. swap for 91 trans am rotors on the late 1/2 ton spindles (with the 1" thick rotors), and you have a 5on 4 1/2 pattern. i'm doing the same on my studebaker in my avitar
ByThanks zero...will I be able to haul the same? Thanks garyb I really want to convert it to dw later on but?
I love the proportions! I think those rear fenders are perfect for it. The parts hauler truck was pretty cool too. I think you'll get a lot of flack about the rear tire not being centered in the wheel well. I know its not as easy to stretch real life steel as it is play-dough or photoshop. But I think it would be worth the extra work, especially since you'd be the one doing it while I sit here typing. I also think it looks better with the truck tires under it. It's part of its oversized-pickup-truck charm. The car tires takes away from that. I didn't care for the car tires either with or without hubcaps. But then that's why they make different flavors of icecream too. I certainly wouldn't kick it out of my garage.
that i couldn't answer. someone with a better knowledge of suspension than me may be able to chime in. i have never heard of a spindle breaking due to overloading, tho
And that answer would be some of the few oddball Ford light 3/4 ton trucks that have the same cab as a 1/2 ton and a gas burner 'round about '97 or so. POS, could've bought a truck.
Hey Seth, have you thought about just opening up the back wheel openings? Would save you a lot of work, and it may match the larger wheel openings on the front. Just a suggestion... ...
Wheel outset offset will not drive very well. I would hope that transferring a C-30 dually front crossmember and package would keep the tire/wheel/ fender appearance complimentary. 73 to 90 with all having the flat grille appearance. Like others have said, you've built porportions and appearance together very well. Keep up the good work!
I like the rear openings where they are ... How about a shot with matching wheels front and rear ? Colourful narrative , amusing .
I'm thinking with the door art and the contents of this thread, it should probably be called the Jack-Rabbit Express.
Actually I think you should roll it just like it is. The door art is way cool. Your WB is 110", right? How long is the box?
I feel like a bad ass just looking at the pictures of it. I feel like going out, kicking asses, and taking names...then giving those names to other people whose asses I have kicked.
TRANNY MOUNT: No I'm not going to tell you the correct way to properly mount that hot Brazilian waiter/waitress on Sunday nights when your wife is out playing bingo but...... ,that's another forum... Unless you want to? Well you gotta move stuff around like the ball sack,,,What??? SLAP!!! BACK ON TRACK. I have a TH400 and I have a stock 4 speed cross member.. I notched the cross member to accommodate the 400 on it but I didnt have the proper 400 mount. All I had was the metal part that hold the rubber on the 400,So I had 1/2 a mount. My brother is coming over tomorrow to finish welding the pads and tilt bed brackets etc... Its 60 miles to the next auto parts and Im gonna spend 40 bucks on gas...what to do???? Fabricate(try to put together) a transmission mount from crap I have laying around...O.k. lets let the pics tell the story
HEHEHE My wife used to tell me I was a train,Now Im a frickin' express subway... Dude dont you ever sleep?
Well I got three hours of sleep night before last, but last night I knocked myself out with Makers Mark whiskey, and two sleeping pills. So I got 10 hours of (pased out) sleep, the most I've had in the last two weeks...Ah,Ah,Ah... ...
Ya' know the rear fenders are a little too far back, so moving them forward would be a good thing. I'm still suggesting enlarging the wheel openings (after you move them) to better match the fronts. Now I'm an armchair Engineer... ...
your lazy hahaha. I had 4 hour last week,,,in a 4 day period tho... SO I HAVE A SERIOUS QUESTION: I need to figure my pinion angle. My frame is level and is normal driving height. My transmission has 0 degress with the mount I made... Can my axle pinion>????? have 0 degrees as well or do I have to give both a 5 degree incline/decline? >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Ya' know the rear fenders are a little too far back, so moving them forward would be a good thing. I'm still suggesting enlarging the wheel openings (after you move them) to better match the fronts. Now I'm an armchair Engineer... ... __________________<<<<<<<<<<< I didnt have the bed ontop of the frame the right way so I looked like the fender was too far back so I dont need to move anything... As to enlarging the wheel opening....It would be cool but too much work...Ya know how im lazy? This should be the final product and I can still go forward one inch more... THOUGHTS?
The wheels are centered, looking Good! Now that I see it the pic.Never mind about enlarging the wheel openings. Maybe move em' forward 0.4375... 0 degrees pinon angle will give you trouble, you have to have (Google search) degrees to keep the U-joints from binding. I do know that when you fiqure this your vehicles suspension has to be on a load (tires on the ground) with the vehicles weight compressing the springs. ...
from Denny's Driveshaft: How much driveline angle is right for my application? Thats a loaded question. The best answer is....the least amount of driveline or u-joint angle is the best amount of angle. Try to achieve the least amount of u-joint angle but don't make it less than 1 degree. A little known fact about u-joints is that they require about 1 degree of operating angle to get the needle bearings rotating. If they do not rotate they will fail. Too much angle will also cause them to fail. The type of rear suspension also plays a big part in setting the angles as well as the engine/transmission angle. Leaf spring cars have a need for more downward pinion angle due to spring wrap-up while coil spring cars control the situation better.
The Jalopy Journal
