Projects Club Coupe+Business Coupe= 3 window :>)

Wow that hood ornament is gonna be slick! Let me know George if (when, lol!) , you find the 2nd door handle!!

 

This is one of my favorite threads!

 

Thank you Del! I hooked up the last section of the fuel line Saturday morning and my friends, Pete,Nick and Dave dropped by to help me get her running again. She fired right up but wheezed and hesitated with very poor throttle response. The accelerator pump was stuck and would not move at all. We drained the bowl and handed the end of the carb to Pete our resident carb doctor. A little compressed air through each hole seemed to push what ever varnish had apparently clogged up the paths for the fuel flow through the carb. We re***embled and started again. No more wheezing and very good throttle response. THANK YOU Pete,Nick and Dave. We crawled under the back end and I OVER adjusted the rear brake shoes too tight and froze the drivers rear hub. Oops! A little wasted time making a brake s**** out of a screw driver by adding a little heat which I promptly set my elbow on top of while under the car. YEOW that's hot! All I have to say for myself is DUMMY! smile. Decided it is time to get out from under the car and push her over to the new lift. PICTURE attached. Just for grins, turned the lights out last night and put it in reverse to check out the PIAA off road lights I tucked up under the car on the rear frame rail. NOW that's bright. snicker.
Hooked a 66 inch speedometer cable to the ****** and ran it up through the toe board to get to the back of the speedometer. New problem! the new cable has a female connector and I need a male. It could use shortening as well and I am going to drop it by Denver Speedometer this week to see if John can fix me up?

What else?... lot's of new metal work to be done to my dash to enable A/c ducts. I started with a Sharpie tonight and my brain didn't come up with an easy path. SO I QUIT. LOL I came in to post to the H.A.M.B. and say enough is enough for the weekend. Truth is,... I spent hours in the shop hanging a 10 foot diameter fan and I am just so tired I have to quit. smile. The wing tips took three coats of paint to get covered and in the end ,I did not have time to get it wired in. Maybe one night this week.

 

A/C Vent challenge...I want to have my vents spaced evenly and not do any huge changes to my dash. I cut the first vent in after dinner last night and knew it would be a challenge. I cut the ABS louver plastic in a pie shape and folded the neck over to see if that would work? Note: I can re-glue with acetone but I still do not have quite enough clearance.

So what's next?
1. I can try to make a new ABS transition piece to avoid welding in an air plenum.
2. If that doesn't work, I will have to weld in an air box with a new neck for the corregated air line.
3. I can also cut a notch out of the back of the radio if there isnt anything in the way on the inside??? This actually isnt a bad idea and would be easy to do. hmmm???

Wish me luck.
smile

 

Opened up the radio tonight and decided to go with number 3.
see pictures of the effort below. Now there is enough room to get the hose on. I will have to glue the vent back together with a solvent based glue. I am guessing PVC cement?



QUOTE:So what's next?
"3. I can also cut a notch out of the back of the radio if there isnt anything in the way on the inside??? This actually isnt a bad idea and would be easy to do. hmmm???"

 

I finished all the hole cutting for my dash A/C vent louvers last night and decided to finish something that I had sitting on the shelf for probably over a year.

When the guys were over Saturday, Nick and I drilled and tapped a mounting hole to use with the 1/4-20 bolt on my tag. Then I sanded smooth before shooting with paint to match the coupe wheels and engine red trim color. (Very close to H.A.M.B. red.) It had been drying since then.

Last night , I sanded the red off to yield the aluminum and added a quick coat of clear.

The middle one has been shortend to fit my car and the other two are for Pete and Dave who chose to let me paint on their behalf. Nick took his home Saturday to complete himself.

Just a little fun with H.A.M.B. members. grin

 

Nice LIFT!!!

 

I love your "Big *** Fan"

dd

 

Hey Dave,
Dont laugh ...I ordered up a non cut propeller nose cone to hang underneath it. I will get Rody to paint a red/white spiral on it like the WW2 Warbirds. Functional Shop art as the highest speed is 90 rpm.

 

Matt called me this afternoon and sent the attached picture over of the Burl Walnut Vaneered DieCast pieces for my dash. Don't forget the speaker grill has been turned into a tachometer mount.

 

Gathering up all the parts for a Saturday dash build...I am very excited. I am struggling with a decision on the 4way flashers. My aftermarket column has the switch in it.See the way cool vintage Flare Stat in the picture. SHOULD I USE IT?
I can always add later..it's just so cool, I hate to leave it out.
George

 

Wow George, that looks great! Post some pics when you get it all together. I like the woodgrain alot!

 

Good News /Bad News First Picture: I got the dash together and the result was great with one exception...THE PAINT DOESN'T MATCH THE CAR. ARGH! Oh well..I'll take it apart and have it re shot.
Second Picture: Rody and Guy cam by to help me mount the hood. Definitely a 3 person job. She opens and closes very nicely. First p*** on hanging the front clip went "ok". We had a couple of issues with holes lining up. Hmmm ...Been together already, HOW MANY times? Had to pull one inner fender and relocate a mounting hole 3/8ths of an inch. weird! I was thankful it was underneath the inner fender and the reworked paint is hidden. whew!

Rody came back over this morning and we checked the front cap for being square. It was out about 5/8 of inch and we were able to get it to within an 1/8th inch before we ran out of adjustment in the radiator core mount. Rather than grinding slots, I decided it was better than factory and tightened her down. Some good progress this weekend.

regards,
George




dash

 

Looking Great George!!!

How could the paint on the dash not match the car? Dang!

 

They mixed it "close" . Just not close enough.

 

Looking great George! Time for a new avatar pic!

 

OK, avatar changed at your request! smile. I spent 3 hours fooling with the hood gaps last night and I am about to pull my hair out. Trying to get everything thing excactly the same is simply an act of futility. I got close and one corner of the hood just will not sit all the way down on it's own. I can push it down after it is closed and it sits there happy as you please. It just will not go there by itself. argh. Difference in spring tension? ( non adjustable) Difference in rivet tightness on hinge arms? (non adjustable) Difference in paint build build up around the hinge area? (non adjustable)

Maybe I should add a little more lubrication...I only used lithium grease on the shoulder bolts, but put no lubricant elsewhere. I am concerned with oiling up my clean parts.... but need to do something.

I do have a question for the group. My hood rubber bumper kit came with 12 pcs. 2 plugs for the cowl. installed. 8 bumpers for the hood to fender. Installed. 2 LARGE bumpers and I have no clue where they are supposed to go? ANY HELP?
regards,
George

 

I had that problem when ***embling my 41. I finally ditched the springs. It lined up perfect at that time with both hood ends sitting where they were supposed to. I then simply made a hood support and use it when the hood is open. Keep it in the trunk when not in use. Just a suggestion. I really admire your work.

 

Thank you! It may come to that. lol. I am wondering if the gas strut kits might be the compromise?
regards,
George

 

Have had the pleasure of working with George on the project to help him tie up some metal work issues.Great car and awesome shop !

my weekly metal work blog www.themetalsurgeon.com

 

My window garnish would not go in after adding the anti rattle. IE: about 1/4 inch too much garnish after adding the late model "fuzz". Jon split the garnish, removed the excess material and then tig welded the halves back together.
Ofcourse the tabs for the screws had to come out and be replaced after sectioning. A problem repair that required a Metal Surgeon. smile.

While Jon was over, I had cut a 2 1/4 inch long, 6 inch diameter tube for extending the back of my head light tubs for adding the birds nest of electronics required to add very , very bright head lights. I needed a lid/ cover and cut discs using a circle shear. Jon was kind enough to show me how to use his aluminum chasing tools to push the metal tight over my hammer forms. He hung around to tig the 2 1/4 inch housing extensions on the head light tubs for me. I will post pictures with a "how to" in a seperate post.
regards,
George

 

My headlight installation project is finished. I purchased an "easy to install" kit off an ebay auction that promised a quick install without any need for tools.
Ha ha! It took 16 hours from scratch to lights on. First of all , there was a whole bunch of electronics + wires that I needed to find a place to hide neatly. There wasn't room inside the headlight bucket, so I needed to make the bucket bigger to squeeze the ballast, electronic switch and high voltage transformer inside. I chose to order a piece of 6 inch diameter tubing from "speedy metals". They sell small quan***ies and I find it easier to just order on line , rather than drive all over Denver trying to find what I need. I also ordered 2 each cuts of 6 inch diameter steel stock to use for hammer forming the lid. IE: need to put a flat disk of 18 gauge between them, clamp the sandwich together and hammer over the 1/2 inch edges to form a lid. After cutting off the tube to the desired length, I had to do a little grinding for clearance on the bucket. This was a fun project and the last picture is of my HID lights all ready to go.
George

 

Nice job on the headlights!

 

George I hope you have another project waiting because your running out of things to do on this one..........Jim

 

Jim,
For the life of me, I can't seem to wrap this car up. The last 10% is taking forever! I spent today wiring the parking lamps to add blinkers and had to redo the harness to add ground wires to the lamp ***emblies. IE: there was not a ground wire so I had to add by using a ring terminal on each lamp ***embly. Just getting started on the grill was a reverse process as the opening was 1/4 inch too tight. I had to loosen the inner fender to core support bolts. I haven't tightened them back yet ... as I am tired. lol. I have 3 more weeks to finish before it is scheduled for the upholstery shop. Please see updated pictures below.

 

That looks terrific. So glad you retained all trim and suchlike, it´ll maybe get people wondering if it´s an original.

 

THANK YOU! I spent some time adding the front valance panel with inner "air flow" sheet metal and stainless trim last night. Believe it or not ...24 bolts! The bumper goes on tonight and MAYBE a first shot at mounting the swan mirrors.

 

I couldnt agree more with that statement! Looking great George!!

 

Thanks Steve! I got the bumper brackets installed tonight and hung the bumper loosely. I could not get the bumper guard bolts started due to paint in the threads. Will need to pick up a tap tomorrow as I do not have a 1/2-20.

I also added one mirror and will just show the result here and the how to on the "mirror mirror" thread.
regards,
George

 

George, All I can say is WOW. Your attention to detail is fantastic, this is one beautiful car. Hope I get to see it in person sometime, maybe at Crusin the Coast this year. Have really enjoy your post on the project, thanks.

Joe