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Little help with painting my 50 Chevy

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Thommyknocker, Apr 4, 2012.

  1. Thommyknocker
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,244

    Thommyknocker
    Member
    from Colorado

    It's been a long long long road traveled for my 50 Chevy project. 6 years now:eek: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=390824

    I'm hoping for having it in color this summer, but I've run into a little trouble I hope someone could advise me on.

    So far it's been in epoxy, filler work, a little more epoxy, 2k urethane primer. I've block sanded and put the icing on, block sanding with 240.
    I put the last of my 2k urethane over the exposed filler as seen in this pic.

    From searching, I think my next step is wet sanding 400 over the entire thing. And here is where my question is.

    I tried the trunk with the 400 to get a feel for it, but apparently I don't have enough primer on it cause the black epoxy is showing through a little bit:(

    From your experience should I stop now and put more primer on it? Is there such a thing as to much primer?

    Or is single stage (a darker green urethane) hide enough, carry on sanding and go to color?
     

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  2. Tin Can
    Joined: Nov 18, 2005
    Posts: 2,096

    Tin Can
    Member

    600 grit should be plenty good enough if you are wetsanding it before paint. Use a sealer before the paint to give it an even base to start with if there are multiple primers showing through when you are done sanding
     
  3. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,936

    squirrel
    Member

    If you're not real good at it, like me, you need to do the 2k primer/block sand thing several times. When it's finally straight, you can put a kind of thick coat of 2k on it and sand it without the block with 400 (or whatever the paint manufacturer recommends) then put color on. But if you're having someone else paint it for you, talk to them to see what they want, before you call it "done".
     
  4. yES ON A SEALER COAT.......
     
  5. BigRy
    Joined: Sep 9, 2010
    Posts: 83

    BigRy
    Member
    from colorado

    I would block, then reprime. If you feel your blocking was good you could wet sand with 400-500 grit. The thing is to guide coat, it will show you your inperfections. A good reason to make sure you have the car completely covered in primer is to not have a reaction with other layers. If you are completely covered with primer, you really do not have to seal it. If you go thru the primer a little and are satisfied with your block, then seal and shoot. There are many ways to do this and it is up to you and how you want your paint to look, last and how much work you want to do. The more you do, the longer it will last, the more you block, the flatter it will be. Paint is in the prep, the better you sand, the better it sticks, the flatter it looks.
     
  6. Thommyknocker
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,244

    Thommyknocker
    Member
    from Colorado

    BigRy, Hi neighbor (almost, I'm up in Greeley)

    Thanks guys, I really appreciate your input.

    After a bit of soul searching, I don't think I have enough primer on it to get a good 400 wet block sanding. I'll correct that right away and block her out again.

    Will the fun ever end?
     
  7. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,936

    squirrel
    Member

    you might want to use 240 till you are sure you're done block sanding, then sand the final coat of primer with 400 (or whatever the paint mfg recommends). If you have it really straight, then the final sanding will not go thru the primer because you won't have any high spots.
     
  8. stop now. put two nice heavy coats of primer on it. proceed to wet sand. finish with sealer.
     
  9. Thommyknocker
    Joined: Dec 15, 2006
    Posts: 1,244

    Thommyknocker
    Member
    from Colorado

    Good call, I spent today with a maroon scotch brite pad. There are several more areas now. More primer is next
    Thanks for the advice
     

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