i have an old model 18 spray gun. it also has an agitator in the cup. found a re-seal kit for the head. can't find anything for the agitator. asked my local dealer and looked on binks web site. anyone have any info? thanks, gene
i have a finishline gun kit and it works well. have another model 18 without an agitator and it works pretty good too. just on a quest to fix this one and try it. thanks, again gene.
Sorry I can't help you on the agitator cup. I use my Binks 18 and Devilbiss MBC for the same reason that I drive and fix old cars when it'd be easier to buy a new one. Binks 18 is a great primer gun. I searched here but you might try starting a topic: http://www.autobody101.com/forums
back in the '70's my uncle only would use a no.7 until he bought the 18 with the agitator. i think in about '80 or '82. my local dealer still has a couple of rebuild kits for a no.7 in stock.
You really need to drop the old guns Here's why, I know we all like old stuff here. But the difference in paint material used alone, will pay for a cheap HVLP if you only use it once A decent HVLP will use about half the material of an old conventional spray gun. At what paint coats today, that is a huge savings!
HVLP guns do have pluses, but they aren't better for every job. All things being equal, HVLP guns tend to produce more orange peel than siphon guns. So if you buy an HVLP gun, either get a good one, or be willing to live with what a cheap one can do.
Well, that may be more the operator . No doubt that a conventional gun will break up paint really well, so well that even a cheap conventional gun leaves a good finish. But you can lay great finishes with a HVLP. You just have to be experienced with it. I painted a Bug, yesterday ( I know Pete's Ponies . a Bug ? ) and the finish from the gun was awesome. Could not have expected any better from a conventional gun. So . I AM NOT the best painter out there, but the guns are good enough that I don't blame my finishes on the fact that they come from a HVLP gun. They do damn well now. And . . there are "compliant" guns, which meet the transfer efficiency of a HVLP, but waste a bit more paint than a HVLP. I have 2 of those guns as well But really, way back when I switched to HVLP, my first "eye opening" paint job was an '87 Lincoln LSC . . I painted it with 2 quarts !! entire car. I followed that with a Mazda Protege for a friend . painted the entire car with 1 quart . . one!! It makes you smile when you use so little paint. So whether you use HVLP or compliant, not need to waste as much paint as you did with a conventional gun. That "paint fog" isn't healthy anyway . . . .
I probably didn't make this clear, I agree that at this point a GOOD HVLP gun is as good about orange peel as a good siphon gun. For as long time that wasn't the case.
Modern paints are made to replicate the orange peel that comes on new cars. The gun just spits it at the car, the painter is the one that controls the flow out and finish. Don't get caught with a syphon gun in your autobody shop, even if it is just hanging on the wall. Real big no no, not nice and illegal.
My shop did mostly show quality painting with urethane paints. I believe it has to do with particle size, but we found HVLP guns produced more orange peel. As I said, the good guns are now on par with good siphon guns, but orange peel was/is a known issue. No question the painter's skill is a big factor. Using the same paint I have seen painters who could paint like gl***, or replicate the orange peel already on the car. Worse for orange peel than HVLP guns are pressure pot guns. That's the type of equipment new cars are typically painted with. It shows.
Hey, WOW!! I've used a Binks # 7 & a # 62 for over fourty years................the charge that you can't shoot modern automotive finishes with either of these just doesn't stand-please don't tell my clients, they'll stop writing my paychecks! Orange Peel in a finish is a result of improper reduction and/or pressure! Learning to properly adjust the Fan & Fluid knobs on a spray gun is the first lession in spray painting. Yes, a siphon gun will use more material than a ''commie- perfume duster'', but you'll have to be shooting several big jobs to cover the price spred for a good HVLP over you're old siphon model. A properly adjusted #7 or #18 with properly reduced material@ the correct air pressure will lay down material fast, and get you out of the booth quicker ( they're production guns, afterall), that's something a cheap perfume duster ain't gonna do! If you wind up goin' the HVLP route, be sure you have an air line and fitting big enough to run it properly, the quarter inchers arn't gonna work well! The Binks Model # 62 was designed for use in the food industry, and has stainless steel guts. " Life ain't no Disney movie "
Binks is a non factor in spray guns today. Its all old school conventional stuff. Sure it will spray new materials, who said it won't. Why stick your chest out about something that wasn't said?? At $300 - $400 a gallon for many paints ( and that is just the base material ) saying it takes many jobs to be monetarily worth it shows me you didn't do well in school. Plus . we haven't even gotten into what spray equipment is even legal to use now. So if you are just a DIYer doing one job, so maybe you don'tr worry about it right?? But there are other considerations. Since we have some people that want to talk the talk . well talk about safety. Talk about the isos that you cannot filter out. Talk about what is happening to you in your garage without a fresh air breathing system and you forming a HUGE cloud of vapor that you are breathing with your conventional gun. There's enough people in the world to find someone that does anything. It still doesn't mean it's the best thing to do. Sure I have an old Binks gun, I use it for metal flake. That happens about once every 10 years. Don't misunderstand me , an HVLP gun is not going to save you or the world. But I'm pointing out facts that you cannot argue. You WILL use half the material you were using with a conventional gun. You WILL put less material into air the air and less into your lungs. You WILL be using a legal piece of equipment. You WILL be stepping into the 1990s !! ha!
i am not a painter, may never be. sprayed the primer with the 18 gun. and the base coat with the finishline hvlp gun. i am sure i did some things wrong. but i swear i had almost as much over spray with one as the other. metalflake...did someone say metalflake. which size tip did you use to spray what size flake?
You would have to have a huge tip to spray true metalflake with a Finishline gun. Not sure what the largest tip is for them?? You used flake from a jar?? mixed it in to mid coat clear??
If you still need parts for this gun we are the authorized obsolete parts carrier for Binks and Devilbiss
O.K. Heres a dumb question. Is the HVLP spray gun the one with the cup on top? Because I have both the siphon spray gun and the 1 with the cup on top. Thanks Bruce.
Bruce either could be HVLP or neither conventional or HVLP spray gun will spray out of a cup on bottom or top what gun type is it? Most likely the bottom fed gun is definetly not HVLP (typically) gravity may be or may not depends on the gun
I got the top fed gun from Harbor Freight{I know not the best place} any one got a picture of a good one?Thanks Bruce.
HVLP isn't the only alternative to siphon feed. I use a gravity feed DeVilbiss High Efficiency which is not HVLP and is legal in Iowa.
LOL its a metallic/flake gun. I have never used a gun with a agitator I have always just dropped a nut in the cup and gave it a shake every once in a while. I wish I could help you, binks guns and devilbus guns were what I cut y teeth on.
I still have my Binks # 7. I have not used it in a long time. Did you check to see if maybe the agitating cup was made by someone else? I am not sure whether or not mine was from Binks because I bought it separately
old thread and worth digging up... for a home hobby hot rod painter, who may paint 1 car every 5 years, that's the worst thing to do. a gravity feed gun has the paint cup on top, only holds about a pint or so of paint, and throws the balance off while painting- the gun is top heavy and ***bersome. also you can't see what you just painted, the cup is in the way. and it's throwing less material, so you have to make multiple p***es and overlaps, rather than the traditional 50% overlap per p***. it takes a lot longer to paint with an HVLP than a siphon. buy a 33 cap, 33 tip, and 33 needle for a Binks model 7, and presto- you have an HVLP. that is approx. a .040" orifice which leans down the paint mixture similar to an HVLP. turn the air pressure down to 30 psi. now you're spraying HVLP with a siphon gun. it's as easy as that. most Binks 7's came with large 36 tips which were .070", or 38 tips which were .086" and throw a lot of material. they even made a .120" tip. but they also made 33, 34, 35 tips which were approximately .040" .050" .060" so take your pick. if I was going to spray the new thin coatings with a #7, and wanted to conserve paint, and reduce overspray- I'd try the 33 tip first.\ what the feds and state gov'ts did, was mandate HVLP guns which are internally limited as to the amount of air that can come out of the cap. whatever the gun has at line pressure is reduced to about 1/3 of the inlet pressure automatically, the spec is only 10psi at the cap for true HVLP. and the tip selection is on the low side in dimensions. the worst thing about HVLP is it requires the painter to "move in" close with the gun. at the same time, the paint cup is on top blocking your view, and making the gun top heavy. IMO the entire HVLP process is stupidity, it makes the painter do everything against their intuition, just for the sake of EMISSIONS. true HVLP would be a pressure pot with a turbine air supply, and bleeder type gun. not a gravity gun. gravity is pseudo-HVLP that the gov't and painting industry cobbled up, to comply with these silly emission laws we have today. another misconception is this- "high solids" clear does not necessarily mean thinner paint. it means there's less solvent in the paint, and the particle size is larger. what many painters are finding out is, their old siphon gun properly adjusted sprays clear better than an HVLP. they lay down the basecoat color with HVLP, then clear over it with a siphon gun. of course doing so is technically illegal because in many areas simply having a siphon gun in the body shop can mean a $1500 fine if caught during an inspection. the current generation of painters has been hit heavy by advertising and emissions laws, into thinking their HVLP guns are the latest, greatest....they aren't. they've just been sold the latest snake oil, is all. and they took it hook, line, and sinker, and even swallowed the pole. everybody wants to think what they spent their money on is the best, so they can brag how much better or good it is. nonsense. there's a saying going around in the paint body shops now- "don't pump up your HVLP gun to 60 psi, then bs me and say it's HVLP- cuz it's not" an HVLP turned up to 60 psi line pressure, it basically no different than a siphon gun at 30-40 psi line pressure.
I realize it's been quite awhile since you asked this question but a Binks #7 with a 36 SD tip will shoot metalflake damn near the size of Cornflakes, not this small new Roth type that is commonly used today on the roofs of a lot cars seen nowadays! I'm talkin B*** Boat type Flake! HUGE!
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