COE 1941 Ford COE build

I mocked up the front driveshaft routing and the engine needs to go back. I'll have to cut the back of the cab and mount the engine so the middle of the valve covers are about in line with the back of the cab. I'll get a long enough rear driveshaft from there and should be able to have clearance for the front one.

I plan to use cardboard templates to simulate the cut cab before actually hacking into the back wall of the COE.

 

One of you guys may need to dope slap me, the blingy wheels are beginning to grow on me.

 

I found 76 Trans am with an 400ci SB, and auto. I used everything including the front clip. Built the frame from the clip back to match the drive shaft length. This is the exact same foot print as a 78 Trans Am. Still very rough but some day it will see the road. Wheels tucked up nicely i thought. Yours is starting to make me want to get back on it!

 

Are those tires sticking out of the fender or is it just the angle of the shot?

 

That will be a cool looking ride when you are done with it.

 

Oh Hell... It's a cool looking ride right now!

 

They are just about directly in line with the fenders. They may need to be skinnier to work, jury is still out.

 

Those wheels and tires still look a tad large - they fill too much of the wheel opening (in my opinion) and it could still use a bit more lowering (in my opinion) but I'm guessing the 4wd is a limiting factor.

I'm still tossing ideas around for mine. I'm pretty much convinced a dakota chassis is the way to go but I want the engine completely behind the cab. This makes for a REAL short driveshaft without an overly long chassis so I was wondering if I could use a 4wd trans, mount the engine/trans backwards and use the front wheel drive output to drive the rear. This would allow for a longer driveshaft. Does everything rotate the right way to do this?

 

Yeah, I'd like it lower also, but I think that may be about it with 4wd.

I think the Dakota WB is about 131", so based on my trying to put a V8, 4L60-E and transfer case mounted behind the cab in a 144" WB I would agree you won't have enough room. When you lop off the TCase which is about 19" you'd still have a non-existent rear DS.

The first issue that comes to mind with your backwards engine/trans and TCase idea is that the stock rear axle diff is centered, the front is offset and in line with front TCase output. I'll try to stick my head under the Willys and get a look at rotation directions...

Rick

 

I realize the rear axle diff is centered vs the offset front but I thought I could send the unit to someone like Moser and have them shorten one side and lengthen the other.

 

No doubt a Moser type place could do that. Pre 1971 CJs had offset rear Dana 44s to match their Dana 18 transfer case but I think that axle would be a bit to skinny... I'm not sure if their larger brethren like the Gladiator J Trucks had offset rear pumpkins also or not.

 

A Dana 61 out of a Dodge or Ford van may be closer to the mark, especially in terms of
strength and off-set diff. Look for a couple of threads in the archives that discussed measurements, etc.

 

Moved the engine back about 14" over the weekend. It looks promising. I think the front DS will still be 2 pieces, but at a far gentler angle than before.. The cardboard template is where the back of the cab will be. I didn't have the balls to just cut sheet metal w/o a mockup.

 

There was a feature of a '39 in Street Rodder (I could dig out the issue) and they mounted the engine where you have it. They used a GM chassis and shortened it to fit a box. They don't mention it but their driveshaft must have been pretty short too.

 

Rick, you are really making progress! It's too bad you don't have a little more wheelbase to make things easier and keep the engine a little further back for better access too. I wish I had my house and move finished so I could get back to mine again. Keep thrashin!

 

Very cool! Is it chopped or just does the visor make it look that way? It sits just right! Love the box on it too!

 

I love the shape of the bed panels. is that your design or original or copyof original?

 

The rear driveshaft length should be fine where the engine sits right now. I didn't actually measure it yet, but it's probably right around 36". The front DS could almost be a straight shot, but it's just a bit too close to things for that to happen, I think. And I'd need to modify or get rid of the "bat wing" Vette oil pan.

However, with gentle angles a center "pillow block" ( I think that's the right term) might help with reducing the front DS diameter making some more room. As I understand it, the longer the DS, the larger the diameter needs to be to avoid a whipping motion.

I'm pretty much where I want to be for the bed. I think I was right around 7 feet long.

 

thanks for the encouraging words! Access shouldn't be an issue with the cab and sleeper tilting forward. Actually, moving the engine back this 14" will make access better when tilted. I won't have to shove my head down in the "narrow end" of the tilt.

I still need to work out things like access to checking the oil w/o tilting, but I'm thinking a little door in the sleeper, maybe...

 

I took 8 inch off both side. You need a Huck gun its a lot work, I also lower my sleeper so the top is just over the roof it looks a lot better lower

 

Marked the back of the cab for cutting to fit over the engine. I have the engine height set that the 5.5" bump up that's "normally" under the COE seat will extend into about 1/2 the sleeper.

I plan to cut 1" shy of where the opening will be and bend that 1" at a 90 to cover the supporting frame inside. I'm new at this, please don't be shy if you think I'm about to screw up.

see the pic, the dotted lines are the bends, the sold is the cut line... (this part makes be nervous as a newbie).

thanks,

Rick

 

DON'T DO IT RICK!!!! I "WOULD NOT" cut the cab like that!! I would RE-THINK the build and put the engine back some more so you wouldn't have to do that. Even if it means doing something to the frame to make it happen. From all what i have learned from the HAMB, putting the engine in back of the cab is the best way to go. But it's your build and in the end it is your decision. Best of luck.....

 

Not for the faint of heart, that's for sure.

 

Why? Structural concerns? I'd have to increase the WB from 144 to push the engine back any further or forget about 4wd.

 

I understand your concern BUT you certainly won't be the first guy to cut his cab. Being in the same situation as you I think this is the only solution that will still give you a reasonable length driveshaft. So on that note ... measure twice - cut once!

 

interesting build

 

Yes Rick, structural concerns and just being happy with the build and if it means NO 4wd then so be it. I am using a 98 GMC extended cab long bed frame for mine and will have plenty enough room for the drive shaft to have some length to it. I haven't placed the cab on the frame yet but I have measured it a thousand times(haha) and think/hope it will be OK. Best of luck in what ever you decide. Sure wish there was a school to help us COE builders. Thank God for the HAMB though.... ;o)

 

Poor grammar aside, what do you consider "enough" ???

 

The requirement for 4x4 can't go away because of slick boat ramps. I'd love to slam it to the ground also, and I will look at air bags in the future, but for now, it has to handle cresting boat ramps and being generally DD friendly.

However, PugMan, your structural concerns are well taken. I have rethought the way I'll cut with your comments in mind. Instead of just removing the piece(s) I marked above, I think I'll use the lower frame and maybe the some of the sheet metal that is currently marked to be removed. I'll cut down the center of the marked area then notch the lower cab "frame" and fold that back so it becomes support for the engine "cutout area" and the sheet metal will cover the hole I've created under the stock seat area. Also the body line along the bottom of the cab will continue into the engine "hole".

I'm not quite sure how to make a corner with the "body line" piece. I think I'll have to just cut it then end up with an open "corner" that I'll have to fill in with a separate curved piece.

My rear DS in this set up will be about 24". If I moved the engine back to clear the cab and had it completely under the sleeper only, the DS would be 10-12".

 

24" DS ... WAY too short !!!