Projects Model A Dropped Axle Install?

I'm installing a 4" dropped Model A axle in my 1930 Ford PU. What I need to know is what should I use for spindles and brakes for Old School stuff? I intend to use a split wishbone.

 

First suggestion: Get Vern Tardel's book about builing an A roadster.
'39 to '48 spindles and backing plates, drums etc.
what motor and trans are you using? Fenders? A bit more info will help get you answers.
RB

 

There is a really good tech on adapting juice brakes in the tech section I also used a clings master cylinder on my A

 

I never changed from my stock spindles on my 4" dropped axle. I did change to Hyd. brakes 40 to 48 style. Think outside the box and past what everyone else does (really it's just an old trick). Sure saves a lot of $$$.
The Wizzard

 

Do tell......

 

Some times photos are better. It was under the B-Ville pit car so is out getting de salted.

 

37-48 Ford spindles and 40-48 hydraulic brakes are the most common swap and will go right onto an A axle. Some upgrade to the same spindles but later Ford pickup brakes, but I have just used the early brakes and they work fine.

If you want to get real fancy you can use the early brake stuff and modify Buick drums to fit, but that is another subject altogether.

Don

 

i hope the axle was also spread to fit original specs . im using '42 brakes on stock spindles . there are many atricles on this . email : kzsteve@yahoo.com for info ........

 

^^^^^ spread ?

 

I think he is referring to a stretch dropped axle.

 

Look close at photos then at your stock arms. Mild heat and rotate tie rod ball 180 at all 3 points. Turn pit man arm around. Yes, narrow tie rod to fit. Tie Rod to wishbone clearance same as stock, Tie Rod to frame same as stock. Steers as if nothing was done. Nothing spent but time, same as in the Old Dayz when time was easier to spend than $$$$. I grew up living the K.I.S.S. method due to lack of $$$$
The Wizzard

 

Pist-n-Broke......I'm pulling up an old thread after doing some searching about using stock Model A spindles in my '31 Coupe. I have a '35 axle for about a 1" to 1 1/4" drop, will be reversing the spring eyes for another +/- 1", and intend to reduce the number of springs in the front spring pack. Hoping to get the front down about 3" total.

Your post above mentions "Mild heat and rotate tie rod ball 180 at all 3 points". That seems rather drastic to do. Heating and twisting the steering arms that much doesn't weaken them? Did you just heat with a oxy/acetylene torch and twist with a pipe wrench or some other tool? Any special cooling instructions or re-heat treating necessary?

The next sentence is "Turn pit man arm around". I'd have to look at my A again, but just thinking about it I wondered why that is necessary? It would move the ball to the outside rather than toward the inside but it seems it would also change the geometry of the drag link and left spindle steering arm.

Thanks, in advance if you could help this Model A virgin a bit.

Lynn

 

Lynn; Drastic to one is just part of the Job to another. Being your a retired Metal worker you probably understand the differences between sheet metal, a forging and casting. They all require a different process to re shape. The info above is nothing more than old Black Smith work, it's all about the correct heat. The info above and what your doing is NOT apples to apples. I probably would not do this treatment if I were using a 35 Axle. As for "turn the Pit Man arm around". Look at your drag link, it is non adjustable. If you rotate the Ball on the steering arm 180 you can't re connect the link as it is, hence turn the Pit Man arm around. There are many ways to drop a Model A and what your doing and what I did only have the fact that they both are in a Model A in common.
The Wizzard

 

Pist-n-Broke....Thanks for the timely reply. As soon as you mentioned the reason to reverse the pitman arm it all came clear.

With more thought, and your suggestion of not twisting the arms using a '35 axle, I'm going to go to the shop, look at the whole works and reconsider just what it's going to require to get clearance everywhere.

I appreciate your help.

Lynn

 

Glad to help out Lynn. What I did on my Axle was to put the Tie Rod right back to where it was prior to installing the Dropped Axle. It works out very well in my application.
The Wizzard