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57 3100 daily driver build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by sqrlnts, Mar 15, 2012.

  1. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    yruhot, thanks for the motivating pics. Great truck

    55 dude, thanks for the tips, gonna stay manual. I'll get a bigger steering wheel, just hang off one side of it and punch it around town!!!
     
  2. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,162

    squirrel
    Member

    btw how many bent up front bumpers do you need? I think I have half a dozen...
     
  3. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Hahaha, I just need one but if I had my preference of the 6, I would take the one that you wrecked with the best story!
     
  4. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,162

    squirrel
    Member

    heh...the only time I wrecked a truck, the bumper was fine, the fenders and grille got hurt bad. The bumper went right under the other car
     
  5. Drive Em
    Joined: Aug 25, 2006
    Posts: 1,748

    Drive Em
    Member

    I have done the mid 70's pickup power steering conversion, as well as the Toyota conversion. The Toyota conversion is easier, and works quite well. You will have to move the engine over enough to the right in order to clear the steering box if you go that route. If you do the GM power conversion, ignore the instructions on where the steering box bracket goes on the frame, and move the box as far forward as you ca on the frame rail, you will need a longer steering armm, but bump steer will be reduced.
     
  6. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Just picked up the headers from your son, thanks Jim.

    Somehow I just realized that I have 2 3/4" brakes in the rear and only 2" brakes up front. Hmmmm that should be interesting....

    Tapered bearing races are in the front hubs, as well as replaced the broken wheel studs. Off to rebuild the master cylinder.
     
  7. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Let me just say I am sooo tired of smelling paint. Finished painting the chassis tonight after flipping it over to do the bottom. That was a rodeo to say the least. Oh and 1 gallon of Rustoleum is enough to do about 5 cars!

    Picked up the radiator, electric fan, condenser and clutch fan on Sat. Tested the electric fan it works, need to have the radiator tested next.
     
  8. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Chassis is done. Not really done in order but I wanted it painted so the cab could go on. I will have to grind some paint off and retouch it back up for the motor and tranny mounts. The front end is my "spare", I think I have just the right amount of positive toe in the right front!!!

    Brakes are turned. The rears are turned a little past the min thickness, hope they don't disintegrate on first use. What would happen if I run 2" pads instead of 2-3/4" pads? Is it even possible?

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     
  9. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

  10. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,162

    squirrel
    Member

    there are a few differences from how the 55-59 trucks work...but a good explanation if you haven't messed with them before.
     
  11. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

  12. classic gary
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 506

    classic gary
    Member

    your truck was a stock V8 truck? if so just set the motor in the chassis with the stock mounts, then install the side mounts. The wife's '57 has an HEI and it fits with NO problem. use a short water pump and pulley set and the front crossmember should not interfear with anything. Also I just put a '73 Monte Carlo rear axle in my '59 fleetside and the width is perfect. AND, the stock painted grill for my wifies '57 is for sale, she wants a chrome one in her truck. OH yeah, if you need a COMPLETE STOCK front brake setup, I've got that too....and rear brakes, cause her truck is getting a 12 bolt anyway........
     
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2012
  13. classic gary
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 506

    classic gary
    Member

    and move the box UP if you are using a dropped axle or mono springs, i found that out..............
     
  14. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Thanks, I might just have a complete stock V8 motor mount set,will have to look around. The cab is close to going back on the frame so I can fit the engine.

    Can anyone tell me what the half dozen or so clips are that set in the cab lower windshield area? They look like they help secure the windshield rubber in place?

    I have 45 holes in the firewall. I am tempted to take my .45 and make it 46 for shits and grins!!!
     
  15. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,162

    squirrel
    Member

  16. 57tailgater
    Joined: Nov 22, 2008
    Posts: 889

    57tailgater
    Member
    from Georgia

    In regards to the clips - if your talking inside the windshield at the bottom, they are for the trim piece that goes around the edge of the top of the dash. I had this pic that shows it - look closely. and not my truck. :cool:
     

    Attached Files:

  17. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Ok, so its something I can worry about later, this piece can be installed after the windshield and gasket correct?
     
  18. classic gary
    Joined: Sep 24, 2009
    Posts: 506

    classic gary
    Member

    Yes after the windshield is in place, and make sure you aim so as to not get the gas tank, or the rear panel !
     
  19. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    While rotating the rear end around to paint the backing plates these little fellas dropped out on the floor. Goodbye pinion gear!!!!

    [​IMG]
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  20. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,162

    squirrel
    Member

    yeah, that happens with those rearends. I lost half the teeth in mine on the starting line at the old Tucson Dragway in 1980.

    that's why I always take them apart and inspect...the cracks appear long before the teeth break off
     
  21. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Finished installing the new king pins on the drop axle, BUT its not installed just yet. I need to figure out how to flip the tie rods which have a 7 degree taper to them. So a 7 degree reamer is like $80, its out of my budget. I read on another post here that if I can find a 7 degree slug I can heat the steering knuckle until its glowing red then slam the slug into the hole to reverse the taper. This would allow me to flip the tie rods and install the springs.

    Pic of said tie rod

    [​IMG]


    Installed the cab on the frame and started some body body work. Going to get my gas tank tomorrow and also looking at a used 12 bolt posi.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  22. 55Hydramatic
    Joined: Apr 24, 2011
    Posts: 458

    55Hydramatic
    Member

    45....thats nothin....my truck had 88!! Looking good though.
     
  23. lamboapache
    Joined: Aug 17, 2011
    Posts: 54

    lamboapache
    Member

    As far as heads go, I just bought a pair from J+C Cylinder head in WV. for my 283 in my 58 3200. Nice product, New castings, Stainless valves, Hardened seats (For todays gas) HD bronze guides,+ new Z-28 springs. Also they were the larger valve version. They work excellent! and were CHEAP compared to rebuilding my originals!
    I also prefer PM industries chassis paint over POR 15. Awesome products, cheaper price. I've even used it to coat dump truck bodies and had it hold up well.
     
  24. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,350

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

  25. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Holy hell there is alot of info in there! I just mocked up my front wheel and I only have a 1/4" between the tire and the tierod, how much do you have on yours? My tierods are the newer chevy style not ford. I am pretty sure at any corner speed the tire would roll and hit the tierod the way it is now.

    I think my steering arms need to be bent in a 1/2" and then have the taper reversed and they should be good to go. I will also have to reverse the taper for the drag link once its heated and rotated 180 degrees.

    While I am at it where can I find an electrical wiring diagram?
     
  26. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,162

    squirrel
    Member

  27. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Yes, thanks Jim. I just wanted to make sure I could retrace this abortion of a wiring mess if I needed to for some reason. Even though I have a new wiring harness, I am always leary of just ripping the old crap out.
     
  28. tobiism
    Joined: Feb 11, 2004
    Posts: 8

    tobiism

    shit man how much of a harness does that thing really need anyway? Shouldn't be too hard to wire that puppy by eye.
    good job getting those kingpins out!
     
  29. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,350

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    You will need around 3.5" backspace with those tie rods. Bending the arms may also work. I ended up getting a pair of old slotted rims with 3.5 BS.
     
  30. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    You would think wouldn't you. The damn ignition switch has like 6 wires coming off of it, the old light switch has about the same. I know everything will change with the new harness BUT you know how wiring goes!!!

    Kingpins are done, which means you can have your huge vice back in another 2.5 weeks. Thanks, your a trooper.

    Thanks, I want to try and keep the steelies on the truck, I "think" I should have enough adjustment in the tie rod end to keep things straight.


    Is $100 a good price for a rebuild deluxe heater control unit? It has new levers and new knobs. Vintage Air is getting $153 if you add their repop unit to their sure fit kit....
     

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