yruhot, thanks for the motivating pics. Great truck 55 dude, thanks for the tips, gonna stay manual. I'll get a bigger steering wheel, just hang off one side of it and punch it around town!!!
Hahaha, I just need one but if I had my preference of the 6, I would take the one that you wrecked with the best story!
heh...the only time I wrecked a truck, the bumper was fine, the fenders and grille got hurt bad. The bumper went right under the other car
I have done the mid 70's pickup power steering conversion, as well as the Toyota conversion. The Toyota conversion is easier, and works quite well. You will have to move the engine over enough to the right in order to clear the steering box if you go that route. If you do the GM power conversion, ignore the instructions on where the steering box bracket goes on the frame, and move the box as far forward as you ca on the frame rail, you will need a longer steering armm, but bump steer will be reduced.
Just picked up the headers from your son, thanks Jim. Somehow I just realized that I have 2 3/4" brakes in the rear and only 2" brakes up front. Hmmmm that should be interesting.... Tapered bearing races are in the front hubs, as well as replaced the broken wheel studs. Off to rebuild the master cylinder.
Let me just say I am sooo tired of smelling paint. Finished painting the chassis tonight after flipping it over to do the bottom. That was a rodeo to say the least. Oh and 1 gallon of Rustoleum is enough to do about 5 cars! Picked up the radiator, electric fan, condenser and clutch fan on Sat. Tested the electric fan it works, need to have the radiator tested next.
Chassis is done. Not really done in order but I wanted it painted so the cab could go on. I will have to grind some paint off and retouch it back up for the motor and tranny mounts. The front end is my "spare", I think I have just the right amount of positive toe in the right front!!! Brakes are turned. The rears are turned a little past the min thickness, hope they don't disintegrate on first use. What would happen if I run 2" pads instead of 2-3/4" pads? Is it even possible?
there are a few differences from how the 55-59 trucks work...but a good explanation if you haven't messed with them before.
Jim, I just realized I have the 2nd series king pin replacement procedure in a book at home. Winshield install string trick for later. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cy5ZwJkEepg&feature=youtu.be
your truck was a stock V8 truck? if so just set the motor in the chassis with the stock mounts, then install the side mounts. The wife's '57 has an HEI and it fits with NO problem. use a short water pump and pulley set and the front crossmember should not interfear with anything. Also I just put a '73 Monte Carlo rear axle in my '59 fleetside and the width is perfect. AND, the stock painted grill for my wifies '57 is for sale, she wants a chrome one in her truck. OH yeah, if you need a COMPLETE STOCK front brake setup, I've got that too....and rear brakes, cause her truck is getting a 12 bolt anyway........
Thanks, I might just have a complete stock V8 motor mount set,will have to look around. The cab is close to going back on the frame so I can fit the engine. Can anyone tell me what the half dozen or so clips are that set in the cab lower windshield area? They look like they help secure the windshield rubber in place? I have 45 holes in the firewall. I am tempted to take my .45 and make it 46 for shits and grins!!!
There is a metal trim piece that fits between the dash and windshield rubber. The rubber is not held in by the clips or the trim, the trim is just there to cover the gap...and the defroster ducts blow into the gap. http://www.classicparts.com/1955-59-Windshield-Trim-Inner/productinfo/32-132/ should be able to find a used one somewhere...
In regards to the clips - if your talking inside the windshield at the bottom, they are for the trim piece that goes around the edge of the top of the dash. I had this pic that shows it - look closely. and not my truck.
Ok, so its something I can worry about later, this piece can be installed after the windshield and gasket correct?
Yes after the windshield is in place, and make sure you aim so as to not get the gas tank, or the rear panel !
While rotating the rear end around to paint the backing plates these little fellas dropped out on the floor. Goodbye pinion gear!!!!
yeah, that happens with those rearends. I lost half the teeth in mine on the starting line at the old Tucson Dragway in 1980. that's why I always take them apart and inspect...the cracks appear long before the teeth break off
Finished installing the new king pins on the drop axle, BUT its not installed just yet. I need to figure out how to flip the tie rods which have a 7 degree taper to them. So a 7 degree reamer is like $80, its out of my budget. I read on another post here that if I can find a 7 degree slug I can heat the steering knuckle until its glowing red then slam the slug into the hole to reverse the taper. This would allow me to flip the tie rods and install the springs. Pic of said tie rod Installed the cab on the frame and started some body body work. Going to get my gas tank tomorrow and also looking at a used 12 bolt posi.
As far as heads go, I just bought a pair from J+C Cylinder head in WV. for my 283 in my 58 3200. Nice product, New castings, Stainless valves, Hardened seats (For todays gas) HD bronze guides,+ new Z-28 springs. Also they were the larger valve version. They work excellent! and were CHEAP compared to rebuilding my originals! I also prefer PM industries chassis paint over POR 15. Awesome products, cheaper price. I've even used it to coat dump truck bodies and had it hold up well.
Not sure if I posted this before, but here's my dropped axle install. I used Speedway's tierod ends, which are from on old Ford pickup - pretty stout & compact Click "view as slideshow" for best viewing http://59chevypickup.webs.com/apps/photos/album?albumid=6869335
Holy hell there is alot of info in there! I just mocked up my front wheel and I only have a 1/4" between the tire and the tierod, how much do you have on yours? My tierods are the newer chevy style not ford. I am pretty sure at any corner speed the tire would roll and hit the tierod the way it is now. I think my steering arms need to be bent in a 1/2" and then have the taper reversed and they should be good to go. I will also have to reverse the taper for the drag link once its heated and rotated 180 degrees. While I am at it where can I find an electrical wiring diagram?
Yes, thanks Jim. I just wanted to make sure I could retrace this abortion of a wiring mess if I needed to for some reason. Even though I have a new wiring harness, I am always leary of just ripping the old crap out.
shit man how much of a harness does that thing really need anyway? Shouldn't be too hard to wire that puppy by eye. good job getting those kingpins out!
You will need around 3.5" backspace with those tie rods. Bending the arms may also work. I ended up getting a pair of old slotted rims with 3.5 BS.
You would think wouldn't you. The damn ignition switch has like 6 wires coming off of it, the old light switch has about the same. I know everything will change with the new harness BUT you know how wiring goes!!! Kingpins are done, which means you can have your huge vice back in another 2.5 weeks. Thanks, your a trooper. Thanks, I want to try and keep the steelies on the truck, I "think" I should have enough adjustment in the tie rod end to keep things straight. Is $100 a good price for a rebuild deluxe heater control unit? It has new levers and new knobs. Vintage Air is getting $153 if you add their repop unit to their sure fit kit....
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