So I'm getting my 1950 ford painted, it still needs some body work but I'm trying to get it all one color for the time being. I have a shop who has done work for me before and they are recommending lacquer for the paint, saying its still available. Car still has its original paint and the previous owner sprayed a grey primer over it. Anyway, it's not a high dollar build, like I said I just want it one color and want to be able to do body work and have it touched up when I do that. Is it worth it to have them spray matte black lacquer? I just dont have the $$ to get it to bare metal, looking for the old scuff and spray, but again, is lacquer worth it?
Funny Spooky! I am a fan of Lacquer automotive paint and have used it on my Nomad and now I am using it on my 51 Chevy truck. Restoration Shop and Trinity (Paint for cars) sell a nice selection of colors in Lacquer, Enamel, and Urethane. Keep in mind that your Ford was painted at the factory with Enamel not Lacquer. GM used Lacquer since DuPont was a major shareholder of GM.
If you want to periodically do body work and touch it up then spray it in a primer of whatever colour you want. Why would you put a top coat on it if you intend to do more body work?
Always liked the way lacquer looked vs enamel. We always used the slowest drying thinner we could get, to cut down on humidity causing it blush, and it helped it to flow out better (less buffing) One manufacturer, that sold under 3 different brand names, had lacquer that would check and craze after a couple years in the sun (NOT Dupont). Biggest problem i remember was lifting of enamels & urethanes, but on a 50-60 year old paint job, I doubt that would be a problem. Also not a big fan of clearcoats on older cars with a lot of chrome and stainless on them. The clearcoat (or 2-stage) paint jobs would outshine the chrome! Just my .02
Lacquer has many draw backs. It can lift older paint, check, crack, requires buffing after application and the final draw back, it MUST be removed if you want to repaint the car using catalyzed paint in the future. Another problem will be that sand scratches will swell up, and when you buff them off. in time they will shrink and re-apair again.
I am a big lacquer fan, but I like it for the look of the finished product, IE depth and overall look, lacquer just looks different. I probably wouldn't go with a matt finish in lacquer, you won't get an different look than with enamel in a dull finish.
As stated above lacquer does have many draw backs. With the advancements in paint technology over the years I believe that your will be far better off using a new type of coating. They are by far more durable and will last for years without becoming brittle and cracking.
Buckle down and get the body work done. Then paint it. Kind of silly to be short on cash and waisting money on paint you intend to grind off. More work, more sand paper, more paint, more time, more more more.
And more money. Make a cow car out of it until you can afford to paint it. I.E. primer spots where you did body work with original paint showing through. That is actually kind of traditional, lot of fellas worked on their car and drove it until the body was done and they could afford to paint it.
Yeah, spend your $$ once. Also consider an acrylic-lacquer, which most shops have switched over to due to VOC concerns. Bob
NOT. Unless you have a good can of 30 year old lacquer laying around. The new lacquer is not formulated the same as the old and does not hold up like the old. My 2¢ worth.
Don't count on being able to "match" you lacquer paint exactly if you decide to do your bodywork piecemeal. Do all your body work first. then prime and paint the car. Otherwise you will be wasting your money and will be disappointed with the outcome. Plus, there's the possibility that you will never finish the car as one year drifts into the next.
That's what I am using, 30+ year old acrylic, I wish I could find well sealed cans of nitro that stuff was beautiful.
The Jalopy Journal
