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57 3100 daily driver build

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by sqrlnts, Mar 15, 2012.

  1. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,350

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    I cant remember what it measured, but it had more clearance once it was off jacks.

    My front wheels are 15 x 6 with 3.5 BS, & my tires are 235/70R15 (28 x 9.3)

    [​IMG]

    BTW, the kingpins were original and never touched, so I was ready for a fight. They came apart surprisingly easy. Another thing I noticed was that the factory bushing on the driver side was not lined up correctly, so it was only getting halfway lubed (I always thought the zerk was plugged). Anyway, it had a little more wear, but not bad. My truck only has about 100k miles on it though.
    These old trucks are pretty stout
     
  2. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,350

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    I went a different route & installed a marine 2-position key switch with a push-button starter. Most of my 455 engine parts are off an old jetboat, so I wanted to keep the marine theme going (I sold my Hardin Marine valve covers though)

    http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=571177
     
  3. tobiism
    Joined: Feb 11, 2004
    Posts: 8

    tobiism

    Thats exactly what I'm thinking should happen with the wiring, keep it simple!
     
  4. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Gas tank mock up

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Tried to show how close the tie rod is to the tire. Axle is not in the truck, just sitting on some stands, its close, probably need to run some wheel spacers.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. squirrel
    Joined: Sep 23, 2004
    Posts: 59,167

    squirrel
    Member

    The king pin bushings float,there's a groove around the outside for grease to get into the hole. Makes it nice because you don't have to ream them, they're already machined to size.

    $100 for a heater control may be reasonable, finding a good unit to start with, plus levers and knobs and the switch add up.
     
  6. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Plan to clean out the nuclear waste in the gas tank.

    dump in lacquer thinner; add about a dozen hex nuts; shake thoroughly for a few minutes; rinse with acetone.
    The nuts act as an aggregate to loosen the sludge. The acetone rinses the lacquer thinner's residue. remove 12 hex nuts.

    Short vs long water pump
     

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    Last edited: Apr 24, 2012
  7. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Just found this picture of shock mounts. Does this seem like a reasonable approach to mounting them? I noticed he also boxed his frame for support.
     

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  8. terd ferguson
    Joined: Jun 13, 2008
    Posts: 3,734

    terd ferguson
    Member

    If you have adjustment in your tie rod, just heat and bend the arms inboard. I had the same issue. Worked out great for me.


    And keep up the good work.
     
  9. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Thanks Terd!

    Alright, the gas tank looks better but the alley smells like terpentine, lacquer thinner and acetone. I pulled out the "old wiring" if you can call it that. I hope my replacement 18+3 harness is enough Hahaha!!
    [​IMG]

    I am hoping this was the major oil leak issue the previous owner had. i also have a bent flywheel, can I try to straighten it?

    [​IMG]

    I have a long water pump and plan to use 2 belts. One for the A/C and one for the alternator. The engine came with a 3 belt crank pulley. There looks like there is enough space to cut the third pulley off which would give me much needed room on the front cross member. Cut it, or wait to see how things come out with the engine mocked up?

    [​IMG]
     
  10. Dan in Pasadena
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 867

    Dan in Pasadena
    Member

    sqrlnuts,
    I just found this thread and read through the whole thing. I'm VERY intersted cause I'm doing the same thingwith my '55.2. I wajnt a nice, clean driver at least until I retire (5-6 yrs - UGH!) when I tell myself I will do a frame off (yeah, well we'll see).

    This thread and the info from tjet's site are really valuable to me; thanks a lot to you guys.

    NOT to hijack but just to show you mine; I'm in the middle of a rework of my garage but I'll be back on my truck within the month.

    As Purchased (Fugly):
    [​IMG]

    283 As Purchased - (FUGLIER):
    [​IMG]

    Now (Since these photos I've rattle canned it flat green primer):
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,350

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

  12. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member


    No hijack at all, thanks for the kind words and your engine detail pics are awesome, i am also jealous of that BIG window cab!!!! best of luck getting back on your project!!



    Here is my latest grab. I know, I know, its a 56' but it beats the hell out of the PO's JcWhitney wheel. Best part was the price, THANKS DANA!!!!!!

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2012
  13. coupeguy2001
    Joined: Jan 22, 2012
    Posts: 37

    coupeguy2001
    Member
    from Phoenix

    Why would you heat the steering arms? just make a two holer spacer that resembles the shackles, and sandwich it in there betwen the backing plate and the steering arm. After all, there are spacers n there from the factory. Just make longer spacers with longer bolts even........You ought to get a full half inch between both sides.
    Or maybe your spacers are missing???
     
  14. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Chris,
    Thats another option I didn't think of. The original spacers are in there, I will have to look at putting a spacer between the steering arm and spindle to move it inboard.
     
  15. 1959apache
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,635

    1959apache
    Member

    Here is a picture of my wheel, is the spindle bigger on the truck columns. My column is out of a 78 chevy van.
     

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  16. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    59A, What spindle are you asking about?
     
  17. Dan in Pasadena
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 867

    Dan in Pasadena
    Member

    Thanks. No, no adapters. The truck had already been changed over to five lugs in front; though still drum brakes & straight axle and the rear was changed to a 10 bolt.

    Prior owner bought it from the 90+ yr old original owner who couldn't drive anymore. As the story goes he swapped the six out for the 283 & 350TH in '89, had a kid "build it" - its over cammed, very rumpety-rump. He didn't really like it that hotrodded and stopped driving in '95. It sat til '10 when the guy I bought it from got it running, but rough. I did EVERYTHING to get it running right. Got rid of single plane manifold, added Pertronix, new belts, hoses, wires, fluids, filters throughout. Wiring corrected. Obviously CL Torq Thrusts and take-off tires. It runs great now. I just want a really clean reliable driver for now. I tell myself a frame off is coming when I retire in 5-6 years.
     
  18. Dan in Pasadena
    Joined: Sep 11, 2009
    Posts: 867

    Dan in Pasadena
    Member

    Hey sqrlnuts, how does that 55-56 wheel clear the dash? I ask cause the 57-59 wheels are deep dished and the columns are 3" shorter to compensate.
     
  19. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    It clears the dash by 5" I wonder if this is an original column?
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2012
  20. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    This isn't going to work. I can't space the backing plate out because of how it seats on the spindle. I don't think I can space the steering arm away from the spindle either because it will interfere with the axle on turns.

    Looks like its back to bending shit to work.

    I welded the lower rear cab panel back to the floor, it was badly separated. Installed the cab to frame bolts and also welded the windshield pillars back into place. No pictures because I suck at welding.
     
  21. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

  22. 55Hydramatic
    Joined: Apr 24, 2011
    Posts: 458

    55Hydramatic
    Member

  23. Camaro Mike
    Joined: May 12, 2006
    Posts: 399

    Camaro Mike
    Member

    That's the problem with old trucks. They're like potato chips, I can't stop at just one.

    I enjoy your build thread. Lot's of good info and a great project.
     
  24. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,350

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

    I was looking at that print. Kinda confusing because it shows the distributor & key switch more than once.

    I made up this print on how mine is wired. I was able to eliminate a bunch of wire & the external regulator by adding a 1-wire alternator. I'm also using a Ford starter relay at the battery so the 1 gage starter wire isn't always hot. I also added 4 fusible links near the battery for safety. I'm using a Cole-Herese 3 pos key switch (Acc-Off-Ign/Acc) & a push button starter switch. I listed the p/n's on the print.

    This is a standard hotrod wiring diagram with an MSD box. Will work on pretty much any carbed car or boat

    BTW- this only the engine electrical. I did not include the body or lights. You should get the idea though
     

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    Last edited: Apr 27, 2012
  25. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    I wish!

    Thanks Camaro Mike!

    Thanks tjet, I appreciate the diagram. Want to simplify as much as possible.
     
  26. tjet
    Joined: Mar 16, 2009
    Posts: 1,350

    tjet
    Member
    1. Early Hemi Tech

  27. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    Thanks TJET, interesting read on the fusable links and the ford solenoid. That sounds much safer and more reliable for a hot ass climate like Phoenix.

    Engine mounts are in and trans mount is mocked up. Trans mount didn't want to fit as nicely as I would have hoped. Tried it multiple ways and this seems to be the best of the worst. I will need to make some 1-3/4" spacers to take up the slack between the bottom frame rail and the trans mount.

    Installed new intake gaskets, checked the carb float, and quickly wired up the starter and ignition and tried to fire it tonight, no spark. No big surprise since the HEI components are rustier than the cab corners!

    Taking tomorrow morning off to go shoot some Tannerite!


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2012
  28. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

  29. 55Hydramatic
    Joined: Apr 24, 2011
    Posts: 458

    55Hydramatic
    Member

    I'm going to have to get some of that stuff now....that was awsome!
     
  30. sqrlnts
    Joined: Apr 2, 2007
    Posts: 314

    sqrlnts
    Member

    We make our own, its way too expensive to buy it at the store. Let me know if you need the recipe.


    Chris got me thinking about the trans mount last week. Instead of making two spacers for the ends of the trans mount to go between the frame and the mounts on each end. What if I bolt the trans mount to the frame and put 1 spacer between the transmission and the trans mount. It would lower the transmission crossmember by a little less than 2". The attachment shows the locations I am talking about.

    Bad idea?
     

    Attached Files:

    Last edited: Apr 30, 2012

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