I cant remember what it measured, but it had more clearance once it was off jacks. My front wheels are 15 x 6 with 3.5 BS, & my tires are 235/70R15 (28 x 9.3) BTW, the kingpins were original and never touched, so I was ready for a fight. They came apart surprisingly easy. Another thing I noticed was that the factory bushing on the driver side was not lined up correctly, so it was only getting halfway lubed (I always thought the zerk was plugged). Anyway, it had a little more wear, but not bad. My truck only has about 100k miles on it though. These old trucks are pretty stout
I went a different route & installed a marine 2-position key switch with a push-button starter. Most of my 455 engine parts are off an old jetboat, so I wanted to keep the marine theme going (I sold my Hardin Marine valve covers though) http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=571177
Gas tank mock up Tried to show how close the tie rod is to the tire. Axle is not in the truck, just sitting on some stands, its close, probably need to run some wheel spacers.
The king pin bushings float,there's a groove around the outside for grease to get into the hole. Makes it nice because you don't have to ream them, they're already machined to size. $100 for a heater control may be reasonable, finding a good unit to start with, plus levers and knobs and the switch add up.
Plan to clean out the nuclear waste in the gas tank. dump in lacquer thinner; add about a dozen hex nuts; shake thoroughly for a few minutes; rinse with acetone. The nuts act as an aggregate to loosen the sludge. The acetone rinses the lacquer thinner's residue. remove 12 hex nuts. Short vs long water pump
Just found this picture of shock mounts. Does this seem like a reasonable approach to mounting them? I noticed he also boxed his frame for support.
If you have adjustment in your tie rod, just heat and bend the arms inboard. I had the same issue. Worked out great for me. And keep up the good work.
Thanks Terd! Alright, the gas tank looks better but the alley smells like terpentine, lacquer thinner and acetone. I pulled out the "old wiring" if you can call it that. I hope my replacement 18+3 harness is enough Hahaha!! I am hoping this was the major oil leak issue the previous owner had. i also have a bent flywheel, can I try to straighten it? I have a long water pump and plan to use 2 belts. One for the A/C and one for the alternator. The engine came with a 3 belt crank pulley. There looks like there is enough space to cut the third pulley off which would give me much needed room on the front cross member. Cut it, or wait to see how things come out with the engine mocked up?
sqrlnuts, I just found this thread and read through the whole thing. I'm VERY intersted cause I'm doing the same thingwith my '55.2. I wajnt a nice, clean driver at least until I retire (5-6 yrs - UGH!) when I tell myself I will do a frame off (yeah, well we'll see). This thread and the info from tjet's site are really valuable to me; thanks a lot to you guys. NOT to hijack but just to show you mine; I'm in the middle of a rework of my garage but I'll be back on my truck within the month. As Purchased (Fugly): 283 As Purchased - (FUGLIER): Now (Since these photos I've rattle canned it flat green primer):
I like the vintage looking 5 spoke rims. Are you using 5 lug adapters? Nice detail work on the motor too Here's one of my favorite pickups with the 5 spokes http://59chevypickup.webs.com/apps/photos/photo?photoid=151519347
No hijack at all, thanks for the kind words and your engine detail pics are awesome, i am also jealous of that BIG window cab!!!! best of luck getting back on your project!! Here is my latest grab. I know, I know, its a 56' but it beats the hell out of the PO's JcWhitney wheel. Best part was the price, THANKS DANA!!!!!!
Why would you heat the steering arms? just make a two holer spacer that resembles the shackles, and sandwich it in there betwen the backing plate and the steering arm. After all, there are spacers n there from the factory. Just make longer spacers with longer bolts even........You ought to get a full half inch between both sides. Or maybe your spacers are missing???
Chris, Thats another option I didn't think of. The original spacers are in there, I will have to look at putting a spacer between the steering arm and spindle to move it inboard.
Here is a picture of my wheel, is the spindle bigger on the truck columns. My column is out of a 78 chevy van.
Thanks. No, no adapters. The truck had already been changed over to five lugs in front; though still drum brakes & straight axle and the rear was changed to a 10 bolt. Prior owner bought it from the 90+ yr old original owner who couldn't drive anymore. As the story goes he swapped the six out for the 283 & 350TH in '89, had a kid "build it" - its over cammed, very rumpety-rump. He didn't really like it that hotrodded and stopped driving in '95. It sat til '10 when the guy I bought it from got it running, but rough. I did EVERYTHING to get it running right. Got rid of single plane manifold, added Pertronix, new belts, hoses, wires, fluids, filters throughout. Wiring corrected. Obviously CL Torq Thrusts and take-off tires. It runs great now. I just want a really clean reliable driver for now. I tell myself a frame off is coming when I retire in 5-6 years.
Hey sqrlnuts, how does that 55-56 wheel clear the dash? I ask cause the 57-59 wheels are deep dished and the columns are 3" shorter to compensate.
This isn't going to work. I can't space the backing plate out because of how it seats on the spindle. I don't think I can space the steering arm away from the spindle either because it will interfere with the axle on turns. Looks like its back to bending shit to work. I welded the lower rear cab panel back to the floor, it was badly separated. Installed the cab to frame bolts and also welded the windshield pillars back into place. No pictures because I suck at welding.
I am not even done with this truck and I have found my next one! http://pueblo.craigslist.org/cto/2981346899.html
That's the problem with old trucks. They're like potato chips, I can't stop at just one. I enjoy your build thread. Lot's of good info and a great project.
I was looking at that print. Kinda confusing because it shows the distributor & key switch more than once. I made up this print on how mine is wired. I was able to eliminate a bunch of wire & the external regulator by adding a 1-wire alternator. I'm also using a Ford starter relay at the battery so the 1 gage starter wire isn't always hot. I also added 4 fusible links near the battery for safety. I'm using a Cole-Herese 3 pos key switch (Acc-Off-Ign/Acc) & a push button starter switch. I listed the p/n's on the print. This is a standard hotrod wiring diagram with an MSD box. Will work on pretty much any carbed car or boat BTW- this only the engine electrical. I did not include the body or lights. You should get the idea though
I wish! Thanks Camaro Mike! Thanks tjet, I appreciate the diagram. Want to simplify as much as possible.
No problem. I added the fusible links on all the "always hot" wires. Here's a good explanation on 'em http://www.alanhorvath.com/54chevy/fusible_links.php The addition of the Ford relay means you only need to run the big wire to the starter. The small wire that went there before now goes to the "S" on the new relay. Here's some info on that... http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/st-1.shtml
Thanks TJET, interesting read on the fusable links and the ford solenoid. That sounds much safer and more reliable for a hot ass climate like Phoenix. Engine mounts are in and trans mount is mocked up. Trans mount didn't want to fit as nicely as I would have hoped. Tried it multiple ways and this seems to be the best of the worst. I will need to make some 1-3/4" spacers to take up the slack between the bottom frame rail and the trans mount. Installed new intake gaskets, checked the carb float, and quickly wired up the starter and ignition and tried to fire it tonight, no spark. No big surprise since the HEI components are rustier than the cab corners! Taking tomorrow morning off to go shoot some Tannerite!
Didn't even look at this thing today. We did blow up my old gas tank in the desert. This was a pretty cool 20oz shot of tannerite. http://s301.photobucket.com/albums/nn53/sqrlnts/Tannerite/?action=view¤t=DSCF1943.mp4
We make our own, its way too expensive to buy it at the store. Let me know if you need the recipe. Chris got me thinking about the trans mount last week. Instead of making two spacers for the ends of the trans mount to go between the frame and the mounts on each end. What if I bolt the trans mount to the frame and put 1 spacer between the transmission and the trans mount. It would lower the transmission crossmember by a little less than 2". The attachment shows the locations I am talking about. Bad idea?
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