Projects '36DD - (My Double Duty 3-window build.)

Cheers for that Nige, very kind words!

Finally dragged the bucket home from storage the other day, so having a bit of a re-arrange in the shop, then I'm back into the '36 with a vengeance

Just booked our flights for June, so will catch up with ya' then.

Bear

 

Wow nice!

 

Seems like everyone's got an opinion on splitting/not splitting rear bones, and I'm not sayin' this is bulletproof either, but this is how I did mine.

First off, the way I have my frame set up, the rear wishbone would have needed to mount right in the line of the driveshaft. I figure as soon as you start messing with the original Ford 'triangle' geometry, there is always gonna' be some degree of compromise.

I have always liked to set my suspension arms level with the ground at ride height to give the least deflection in up-down movement, and probably equally as much for the aesthetics - they just plain look right!
So shifting the wishbone pivot location to above or below the driveshaft was not an option for me.

I figured the least split, or more triangulation, you can keep, is gonna' minimise the twisting/flexing of the radius rods, so I endeavoured to keep the pivot points in nice and close to the driveshaft.

I have to assume from reading other threads on here, particularly the one from 'Harms Way', that the '36 bones will handle the 'cambering' load that will be put on them, and seeing as I'm only running 7.00-16 crossplies, and the fact that at 49, I may be finally starting to grow up, I'm willing to take the chance on that.

So the real issue was to fabricate a mounting that would tolerate both the fore/aft and up/down loads that the rear end would be placing on it, and look like a 'savvy' hot rodder in the 50s could've built it.

First off I made some templates to check the fit, then I cut a bunch of pieces out with the band saw. Had the main plate rolled in the centre for driveshaft clearance, and got some bungs turned up for the ends of the bones, with a nice gentle radius on 'em to match the front ones.



Then the two main sections were welded together.



The new crossmember was fabricated pretty much as a truss to cope with the different loads, and also to restore the integrity of the original x-member.

This will eventually be fully welded into the x-member.

The lugs for the bone mountings were centred on the 'truss' section, then tacked into place.







Then fully welded...



Like I said earlier, as soon as you start messing with Henry's 'triangle', the geometry is no longer right - I have just tried to do it with an acceptable amount of wrong!

 

Very nice!! love the fabrication!

 

Cheers, Greg!

 

Grow up, you gotta be kidding, I've got a couple of years on you and no signs of growing up yet. Love your work mate.

 

Thanks, Squigy. Really appreciate it.

 

Thanks buddy, I'm really loving fabricating this stuff!

Bear

 

Very nice! Cant really think of any other descriptive words that haven't already been said. Ill be watching this one closely! SUBSCRIBED!

 

This angle probably gives a better indication of where the bones now sit in relation to the frame, and shows why I needed to split them in the first place.



All of you early Ford gurus on here will be able to appreciate how low the frame is gonna' be, bearing in mind the '36 bones are sitting level at ride height, as pictured.

It's gonna' need a fairly substantial tunnel and reworked rear floor area to clear all of this, but the plan is to keep everything looking as near to stock as I can inside by keeping to original shapes, albeit enlarged, wherever possible.

The biggest piss-off is that the car has got near mint floors in it now!

 

Almost seems a pity to put a body on it, if you ask me.

 

Thanks for that! Had a few distractions lately, but with winter closing in, I plan on getting back out in the shop at night a bit more.

Bear

 

Cheers, Todd.

If I keep going at the current rate of progress, it may never get one!

Bear

 

Got a nice low-arch monoleaf and some So-Cal dogbone style shackles from GMT for the front end.

I reworked the bones to get 6 degrees of caster, and finessed the ends of the hangers back to parallel (after spreading the bones).



Mounted up the front spring, and everything seems to set pretty nice, bearing in mind that there is only minimal load on there as yet, and my intended ride height is 1 1/4" lower than this.




Now I've gotta' figure out a tidy way to mount some shocks.

Bear

 

Coming along real nice. The Engine plate is neat.

 

Thanks Retro,

Hope to post some more progress real soon. I've been trying to keep everything clean and simple, and wherever possible in a similar styling to the original '36 stuff.
I've had to resist the urge to drill a bunch of holes in parts cos' I don't feel it's that type of car. I guess I'm already leaning more towards custom than hot rod.

Bear

 

I know I'm probably gonna' cop a flaming for this next bit, so I'll suggest that the older, stauncher fellas on here might like to look the other way for a time.

As I had said earlier, this car is intended to serve double duty, as a hot rod, and as a tail draggin' custom. In order for this to work, I'm setting the frame up with just two (maybe more depending on final weight) leaves out of a Model A rear spring, which should give me my 'custom' ride height, and then I'm gonna use air bags to adjust to the raised rear 'hot rod' height. (There, I said it!)

Effectively, when it's done, nobody will ever know ('cept for the millions reading this right now, and you guys won't tell anyone, will ya').

It won't be one of those, psssssht, pssssht, doof, doof hopping type deals, just a nice, practical, discreet height adjustment, which will allow me to get the car up my steep &%#@* driveway, and satisfy the ground clearance requirements of our kiwi Warrant of Fitness inspections.

Anyway, first off I found some nice 'period' looking sleeve type bags, with a tasteful old style Firestone logo on 'em.
These are rated at 800 lbs. each, which should be plenty for the 'assistance' role they will be providing. They have a 5 1/2" travel, with the added bonus of a compact 4" diameter.

Once I had trial fitted some templates for the lower mounts, I cut out some plates on the bandsaw, sanded them up and welded the pieces together.











These will mount to the front of the axle tubes, so ya' won't be able to see them unless you slide a mirror under there...

Bear

 

Looking good. What type of Bandsaw do you use??

 

Cheers, Beater.

My bandsaw is nothing fancy. It's a Morgan brand (Probably similar to the HF ones sold in the US), 14" woodcutting bandsaw which I have fitted with a fine tooth high speed steel blade. Seems to work fine on most lighter stuff, in fact I have cut 3/8 plate without any problem, just a case of "patience, grasshopper!"

I've seen plenty of discussion on here about slowing the blade down for steel, but I have enough projects on the go without rebuilding my tools as well!

I generally cut without any lube, but just take my time.... the payback is the minimal sanding required on the finished piece.

Bear

 

Oh man, this is just plain awesome!
You're doing amazing work.
Threads like this is why I spend way too much time on here...

 

hey bear,been awhile,miss seeing the build...lol...richie...

 

I love watching clean work like this. The dual duty idea is going to be fun to watch, and an awesome idea.

 

everything is so tidy, very impressive work.

 

Thanks for that...

Know what ya' mean about spending way too much time on here.
'Tho I like to think of it as an investment in knowledge rather than spending!

Bear

 

Hey there, Richie - nice to know I've been missed!

Been a bit busy lately, moving my folks into a retirement village, so that has hurt progress on the '36.
The upside to all of this is selling their home meant I lost some storage, so after being hidden away for 6 years, I finally drug this home last week.



It's gonna' need a bit of a freshen up, but for now it can just sit in the corner of my shop till the coupe gets done.

It's a real good feeling to have all my stuff back in one place again tho'!

 

Thanks a bunch Jeff and Yeti.

I've always figured when you are making individual pieces, the difference between ho-hum and schmick is only around 10 minutes with a file or sander ('tho all those 10 mins. do add up over a whole car)

Jeff, don't know whether that double-duty deal was a brainwave or me just bein' cheap!

Anyway, I'm just not sure how far I can stretch it in each direction without f$^*ing up the other... I sure do like flames on a hot rod but it just ain't gonna' work on a custom

So, back to the build...

Pretty much followed the same plan with the top mounts - cardboard templates first then cut out on the bandsaw,




Tacked together...




Welded, sanded and tacked to the frame...













I paid particular attention to having the top and bottom plates exactly parallel and concentric at the intended ride height to keep the bag nicely aligned.

Looks like shit here, but I'm sure it will look better when it's got some air in it....



...deflated is never a good look!

 

Good to see the bucket seeing the light of day, and it was good to meet you last weekend.
keep up the good work

 

Thanks k1w1, it was great to meet you too!

I was amazed how many Hambers came up and introduced themselves over the weekend (and how many rodders I already knew 'came out of the closet'!)

Just goes to show, a lot of people really do look at this stuff...

Bear

 

Yep.
Heading towards 4000 views already.
Great work always attracts viewers.

 

Bear...awesome workmanship it's work like yours that inspires others to kick it up a notch thanks for sharing....
Webster's Dictionary
inspire....
1..to stimulate some creative effort
2..to motivate as by some divine influence
3..to give inspiration
Looking at your work does all three........................