So I have a 50' Ford with a 200 cu in I-6 from a 81' Fairmont. It stopped running about two weeks ago, it turns but won't catch. Just because it was about time I replaced the plugs, wires, cap and coil.. no biggie. I'm fairly new to working on cars but this is all well within my ability. Still a no-go, so I replace the distributor, which long term I still have to figure out because turns out no one actually makes replacement distributor for an 81' Fairmont so it sticks out about 1/4" and the retaining bolt doesn't match up with the hole on the block for the bolt (fucking autozone & advanced)... but here's my question, new coil, cap, plugs, wires, battery and distributor and the car still turns and turns strong but won't catch. I need suggestions from people smarter than myself... Better yet if there's anyone in central Florida who hasn't spent $14,000 to make their 96' Civic into a 15 second car or has a $70,000 rod that they've never actually opened the hood on themselves and would like to lend a hand that'd be equally awesome.
I went out to the car to check the timing. How the hell is it that Ford in their billion dollar wisdom didn't think to put a notch or mark on crankshaft pully indicating top dead center? I've been working on cars for about three weeks now and I've figured out that this is a good idea... Also, in my thinking and again only been working on cars for three weeks, if the timing is off I just set the engine to TDC and the distributor to the #1 cylinder position and that would restore my timing.
That's how I would do it. Bump it around and bring #1 up on compression to tdc and align the rotor with the spot where #1 Wire goes in the cap. If it's a point type distributor is the gap on the points about .016 when the rubbing block on the points is right on the tip of one of the lobes of the distributor cam? That is one mistake a lot of guys make if they aren't used to setting up a point style distributor. Oops, does it have points? as O'Reilly's shows two electrionic distributors for that engine. http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/s...model=Fairmont&vi=1127708&year=1981&make=Ford As that engine has a timing chain there is the possibility that the timing chain might have jumped time too.
Glad to hear I'm onto something with the timing, although I realized after fiddling around with the engine there's nothing on the crank pulley to indicate TDC. No points it was all electric by 1981. I could see how the chain jumping would cause the eingne to turn but not catch.
Quick way to check timing chain. Not 100% positive test but will give good indication one way or the other. If your exhaust system is in good shape, hold the palm of your hand tightly agianst the tail pipe while someone else turns the key. There should be a positive, steady flow of exhaust from the pipe. If it pulses, or feels like it's trying to suck your hand in, the timing chain has most likely slipped. Check the exhaust on a couple known running cars, (pull the coil wire) to get a feel for how the tail pipe exhaust flow should feel & compare to yours. Good luck, Worken2much
Orlando, 3 weeks huh ? Going to be fun. I read your other thread about the distributor. You need to get that sorted out and corrected. Compare the new one to the old one and see what's wrong or different. Google "piston stop test " and do one, mark TDC for yourself. No start, you need fuel, air, spark, timing. F A S T I see that you have fuel. Do you have spark ? If yes check your timing If no, check for power to the ignition system, check for ground for the ignition system. If no find the problem. If yes, remove cap and spin the motor check for the rotor to move. If no you have big problems. If yes, check your ignition components. New never automatically means good, EVER-PERIOD-END OF STORY. Very important question - how exactly was it running before and how did it quit.
I've confirmed I have power flowing to the coil. Unsure how to test forward of that. Ya three weeks into my first build ever... I'm going to either build something to be proud of or end up in the funny farm. It ran but was very 'lumpy' like it had a full race cam, also when you really got on the gas it would pop and stall out, occasionally stalled out at low RPMs. Figured the idle was just set too low on the carb. I've got the distributor more or less sorted out, I just need to find TDC, align the roter to #1 piston and then get it to drop into the oil pump. Ya, it's a basket case.
Ahh, duraspark ignition then... verify that you have spark, pull a plug wire, touch it to your tongue and crank the engine. Having owned a duraspark equipped vehicle, I'm willing to bet it's your ignition module and you will likely find a no spark condition.... they are troublesome to say the least. As in, they work great when they're working, when they aren't? Well, you know... Don't really touch it to your tongue, just hold it close to the engine block or the plug tower.... Also, not sure why you couldn't find a replacement distributor, ford made TONS of those engines, you should be able to find a replacement pretty easily.
This is not sorted out or anywhere near it. I still have to figure out because turns out no one actually makes replacement distributor for an 81' Fairmont so it sticksout about 1/4" and the retaining bolt doesn't match up with the hole on the block for the bolt
I'll give it a shot tomorrow morning and let you know what I come up with. Though I tend to agree with you that it's the box the more I dick around with this thing.
If the distributor is not seating to the block, hanging up a 1/4inch or so, sounds like the the hex shaped oil pump driveshaft is not lining up with the hex drive in the bottom shaft drive of the distributor. That would hold the dizzy up enough not to allow it to seat against the block. Good thing it didn't start, it would have no oil pressure "not good" be careful lining the hex dist drive and hex oil pump shaft up, if it has been replaced over the years and they didn't put the retaining collar back on it you can drop it in the oilpan and have a hell of a time trying to fish it out, usually requires dropping the oilpan. Once you get the distributor engaged to the oil pump shaft/oil pump and seated to the block and tdc, rotor pointing to no#1 on cap, if you aren't getting fire, it's what the other guys have said your duraspark box is bad. Since the distributor is new, the electronic pickup should be good. Here is a link that gives you all the info you could want to know about Ford Inline 6's and duraspark ignition: http://www.classicinlines.com/DSIIswap.asp
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