Projects Kent Fuller Top Fueler Recreated

Contact Bruce Dyda Racecars and have him make you one. Finding will be like finding the Holy Grail.

 

Thanks Riceman

I can be contacted at 1-310-768-3163

I am in the process of moving my shop to a new (better location) and will be back in full operation in a couple weeks

 

After looking at all the pictures at the March Meet, I thought the Weedburner were a taste too long. I trimmed off 3/4'' off the end of each pipe and while I was at it, I made a new rightside panel under the motor.
I also made a chute cable housing attachment that will be hidden by the chute pack body.
Now we are HAPPY ! Picky SOB !

 

Not picky. Detail driven. That is why your recreation will be perfect when finished.

 

What Dean said, keep up the beautiful work and do it for your personal satisfaction. That's what makes a build like this so special, getting all the details!

 

There are a few less parts laying around my Garage. So I can checkoff a few things off the 10,000 things to complete.
The 4:10 locker third member was inspected, tooth pattern checked, all bolts torqued and installed into the housing. The axles, disc brake rotors were cleaned, calipers and bleeders cleaned, and installed.
I made new -3 brake lines and installed those. Brakes bleed and now have b...rakes. The brakes feel pretty solid with the hand brake moving less than two inches, brakes are locked.
I started the third member anti-rotation support making the top piece that bolts to the third member which will support the bracket to the bottom cross chassis tube and the coupler cover.
How comes on the TV Hot Rod shows they can do all this in 1/2 hour ? The magic of TV I guess, but then again they don't build vintage dragsters either.

 

I made the coupler cover out of steel sheet. .125 for the base ring and formed a tube out of .075 steel sheet. You think 18, 3/8 NF Grade 8 Bolts will keep that rearend in place ? LOL
The LIST is getting smaller. I got the Pinion support and Coupler cover done. I also added a support strut for the throttle pedal. I need a beer.

 

Happy Easter to you all ! Don't forget where you hid the eggs. I thought I would bring you up to date with the M & R Special.

The body is painted yellow & white and should be striped and hand lettered next week. All metal finished with out any body filler. All aluminum ! It will glow, it looks that great !

My friend Ken Riley and I took apart the mockup motor yesterday and organizing the parts that will be brought up to Pop Bradford to build the NITRO long block for the car.

With limited room in my garage, I still had to get the 200 pound block out of the frame. This morning with some fresh brain cells the idea struck. How many times has the beams in the garage been used as a hoist support ? Too many times to count by car builders.

I went inside the trailer and grabbed the ratchet tie downs and the block chain cradle. looped one of the tie downs over a 2 x 8 intersection and position the motor right over it. I then attached the other tie down through the cradle and hook the two end hooks together.

As I ratcheted up, the block came right up. I lowered the front of the chassis down off the roller jacking support and lifted the front of it ,moving it out of the way. I had a cart ready, rolled it under the block and lowered it.

Well that was easy. So next week the motor parts will be at Pop's. The body will be picked up and I have a place to let it sit until I am ready to put it on.

 

Absolutely beautiful car! Really looking forward to seeing it in paint.

 

Amazing work, I love watching all these FEDs come together.

 

The Painting and lettering are done. Paint by Doug Rose at Kustom Kurves and John Neal lettering , both from Lodi , Ca.

 

OOH! SHINY! Looks great Roger!

 

Some Saturday fun, Tom West photos from the March Meet.

 

More from Tom West.....YUMMMMMMM !

 

In a word...SWEET! And the dragster is nice too, hehehe. Seriously Riceman, beautiful work.

 

I dont mean to hijack this thread but I was looking at earlier pictures and the valve covers on my engine look VERY similer to the ones in the old pictures right down to the added dimples and puke tank tubes! Im not sure if we could figure out if they indeed belong on your dragster but if they do I wouldnt feel right not letting you know! Killer dragster, love the upright Enderle.....Race

 

It was a commine practice to dimple the valve covers to clear head studs. With the front tubes facing downward, I don't think they would be from the M & R Special. Thank you for sending your message and picture.

 

Thanks Riceman for the tip on the blower scoop! Stan

 

Wow, the paint looks great, Roger!

 

Sand and polishing Magnesium wheels is a forever job. Simichrome polished too ! Why do we do this ? Cause they look SO BITCHIN after you are done. I coated them with Gibbs and I see how long it last.

 

Smoothing out casted magnesium wheels takes alot of time if you decide to do it yourself. This is how I did mine.
You will need a air compressor, 90 degree die grinder, 1/4'' x 10'' steel rod with a 1'' deep slot wide enough for 1 1/4 x 4 cut strips of Scotchbrite pads, some 320 grit sandpaper, breather mask and Simichrome Polish.
I first went over the wheel with the 320 sandpaper to get the rough spots smoothed out working with the radius direction of the wheel and spokes. It's like polishing tubing, working in the direction of the radius and not the length.
Scotchbrite pads come on different grades starting with the roughess, Green, then Red, Grey and Super Fine White. I bought the pads at a Industrial supply company.
My die grinder does 16,000 rpms and letting the pad strips do the work. I applied little pressure while working the surfaces. You are looking and feeling for a even smooth surface. Changing the pad strips often keeps the worked surfaces even.
You should be able to see the reflection on the surface after using the Red Scotchbrite. Put your finger above the surface 1'' for the test.
Repeating the pattern of polishing with the grey and then white pads (optional) and next to the final polishing with the Simichrome paste.
Magnesium will oxidize and turn grey over a period of time. I am using Gibbs Oil and that stops the oxidizing. I sprayed it on a good coat of Gibbs and let is soak in, wiped of the surface after a few days and polished with Simichrome. Go to www.roadsters.com to find out about Gibbs Oil. We'll see how the polishing last.

 

If the wheels are going to sit for awhile I would suggest getting some of those large vacuum bags they advertise on TV and keep them in those untill needed. Case in point I had some polished mags sent to me, both were wrapped up in cardboard and plenty of tape. Opened one to do the fitting I needed and never wrapped it back up.8 months later the opened wheel went flat dull but the packaged one was still polished, I really could not tell if the wheel had dulled or just a good/fair polish job. Quick wipe with a power ball and it was brite, the other one needed a little more work. I tried the Gibbs thing and did not care for the haze it left.

 

I just saw this picture of a current Fuller project. If you get a chance will you inquire where the driver goes?

 

Maybe it's a drone Rich.

 

I thought it might be an RC car.

 

Looks like a flathead Ford is going inn there??
It looks cool!

.............................
Taildragger&fenderless

 

Some Streamliner shots are still up in this older thread

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153565

 

Hope it works for him. I have seen that tank with the periscope running for some time now. Jack had a similar deal in his 788 streamliner but eventually removed it and sat up a little more. The 5050 bike liner driver laid on his stomach and looked out the front. All his seem to steer with handlebars.