Projects KIWI MADE 1927 T Lakes modified - Journey to the end of the road!

Trying a better way of posting pictures on here.



Nailed it!

 

Baby steps at the moment, waiting for painted panels to be done. I did spend some time today on my shifter. Originally I had planned to Cadmium plate the parts of the shifter, but the guy that I was reccommended to use has gone out of business (probably because he did it too cheap!). So I decided to just hit it all with a black etch prime and assemble any way!

I have also been covering the chassis with protection for reassembly damage control.

 

Nice shifter, is it your work? Any pic's of the innards?

Scotty

 

Here you go Scotty http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=631996

a link to the thread I did for the shifter fab.

 

I hear Rod has sprayed some colour. All good?
Russell

 

In between bouts of muttering about there being more friggen panels on this job, than a 1964 Galaxie. Yes he has, and they are looking pretty damn good! I hope to pick some up tomorrow when I get home from work.

I have given him a list of priority panels that I need to get back first to start the reassembly process. All I have to do now is try and remember which order they all fit back together! In the mean time I have been sorting out various brackets and fastenings that will be needed.
I spoke to Trev, my engine builder, and he assures me that it will be ready next week sometime too. I need this fairly early in the job to build the rest around. It is all a very tight squeeze! But I am looking forward to getting into it!

Thanks for your help Russell.

 

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Thanks for joining us. I hope you enjoy the ride!

 

I started to assemble the brake pedal mount and master cyl set up the other day. I read through our aforementioned code of construction and realised that I was not allowed to have the pedal welded the way I had made it. So, I decided to start over.



Out came a piece of 1" plate and the gas torch. I marked, cut and ground away every thing that was not a brake pedal! Now I need to bore out the holes in the top end

and then fit the bushes and the pedal pad. I will update when more to see.

 

nice job on the brake pedal. Looks good.

 

That brake pedal looks damn good!

 

ill join up on this one too looking real good

 

Awesome stuff. I've following ya thread from the get-go , , , and , well , Its All Good . I bet you were popular with the neighbours with all that grinding to shape up ya brake peddle !!! Top job . I'm looking forward to seeing the pics of the rolling painted car.

Keep up the great work , good luck with getting it to the show too , gonna be some long nights ahead

Shrapnel

 

Thanks Paul. Nothing like spending a quiet Sunday swinging on a grinder......again!

Cheers Greg, I only did it because I knew your old man would ping me on the old one!!!

Welcome aboard mate. The more the merrier!

Cheers Mate!

Bugger the neighbors Shrapy, the missus wasn't too hot on the deal though! I enjoy the sculptoring jobs. You just keep on carving until you find what you want hidden in the block of steel!!

Hopefully not too many long nights to go. I have had it all together once,.... just no paint,...... or wiring,...... or running,........... or plumbing.......oh Sh!t, what am I doing!!!!!!??????

 

Way to go with the Carving By Grinder , yup , it's amazing what hidden beauty's you'll find in a Block , Lenght or Sheet of Steel

Sorry , didn't mean to scare ya into a bad case of the "What Am I Doing's"

Keep up the great work.

Shrappy

 

Some days I just plain scare myself!!

Any way, Today I had to sleep for a bit after a night shift, then this arvo played around a bit more. I pressed the bronze bushes out of the old pedal (Mark one) and fitted them to the new billet steel one (Mark two). I also drilled the return spring hole. The other job to do was to bore out the main pivot hole to 16mm to match the pin size. I had to make some spacers to allow for the reduced thickness of the new pedal. For this I used some Tufnel, which is a resin bonded material used for making electrical insulators. It is a very wear resistant product and with some neva seize grease on either side should last a lifetime.

pretty much the last job on this pedal will be to run a tap into the pad mount hole. I have drilled the hole to 11.1mm to take a 1/4"NPT thread tap. Unusual as this tap type and size may seem, apparently this is the tread used by Henry and his team. I guess it is because it is a tapered thread.





Back to work again tomorrow!

 

Word of caution , when it comes to using varions forms of nylon/plastic/composite etc for piviot and sharft bushings , , , some of them expand (some quite a lot too ) when they get warm/hot . I know of one instance where a nylon/plastic/composite material was used in a lower steering column , did away with the rattles nicely , but then later in the drive the steering got heavyier and heavier tell it locked it up solid !!! Fortunatly no accident occured but could have been nasty ! Not saying its the case for you , but just be wary .

Shrappy

 

here is the relevant info :

PHYSICAL PROPERTIES
TUFNOL Grade 6F/45 Sheet
PROPERTY
TYPICAL RESULT
UNITS
Cross breaking strength
170
MPa
Impact strength, notched, Charpy
4.6
kJ/m2
Compressive strength, flatwise
290
MPa
Compressive strength, edgewise
190
MPa
Shear strength, flatwise
100
MPa
Water Absorption


- 1.6mm thk.
30
mg
- 3mm thk.
35
mg
- 6mm thk.
45
mg
- 12mm thk.
55
mg
Electric strength, flatwise in oil at 90ºC


- 1.6mm thk.
15
MV/m
- 3mm thk.
12
MV/m
- 6mm thk.
10
MV/m
Electric strength, edgewise in oil at 90ºC
80
kV
Insulation resistance after immersion in water
3x1011
ohms
Loss tangent at 1 MHz
0.040
-
Permittivity at 1 MHz
4.3
-
Comparative tracking index
800
-
Relative density
1.36
-
Maximum working temperature**


- continuous
130
ºC
- intermittent
150
ºC
Thermal classification
Class B
-
Thermal conductivity through laminae
0.36
W/(mK)
Thermal expansion in plane of laminae
1.8
x 10-5/K
Specific heat
1.5
kJ/(kgK)

Test methods as BS EN 60893-2, where applicable.

TUFNOL Grade 6F/45 Round Tube
PROPERTY
TYPICAL RESULT
UNITS
Axial compressive strength
180
MPa
Cohesion between layers
130
MPa
Water absorption
1.2
mg/cm2
Insulation resistance after immersion in water
1x1010
ohms
Loss tangent at 1 MHz
0.04
-
Permittivity at 1 MHz
4.0
-
Axial electric strength in oil at 90ºC
75
KV
Radial electric strength in oil at 90ºC


- 1.6mm wall
13
MV/m
- 3.0mm wall
10
MV/m
Relative density
1.35
-

Test methods as BS EN 61212-2, where applicable.

TUFNOL Grade 6F/45 Round Rod
PROPERTY
TYPICAL RESULT
UNITS
Flexural strength
170
MPa
Water absorption
1.3
mg/cm2
Insulation resistance after immersion in water
1x1010
ohms
Axial electric strength in oil at 90ºC
80
kV
Relative density
1.35
-

Test methods as BS EN 61212-2, where applicable.

**Users of highly stressed components at temperatures approaching the maximum are recommended to seek further advice from Tufnol Composites Ltd.





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Thanks for the heads up boys. I will take that on board and probably change to NYLOIL self lubricating Nylon material. I was going to have to machine the spacers any way.

I was able to borrow a 1/4" NPT tap from one of my work mates, so tonight after I got home I sorted out the thread for the pedal pad and I do think it all looks pretty sh!t hot!







Not sur what tomorrow will bring! Panels on friday......I hope!

 

Nice work.
Will have to do something similar for mine as well.
I have a welded one I made up when I was mocking
up the under dash swing pedal box, M/C, booster etc

 

Great work!

 

Cheers LS. Eventually we have to replace all the "that'll do for now's" on a job.

Thanks Mate.

 

50 days to go. I have just finished ordering a new dual master cylinder with remote reserviors to replace the one that I bought a couple of years ago. Dumbass me obviously wasn't thinking too clearly the day I got the original one, as it was only a single!!! we live and learn eh?

I had to drag out the engine stand that I made 20 years ago to hold the Buick on its propper mount points. I will use this to transport the engine home, as I don't want to have it on the build stand due to stability issues, and I don't want to sit it on the sump (nice and shiney!). Trev wants me to drop off the flexplate, so I hope the engine will be close to ready!

Pictures to follow.

 

Awesome stuff . That pedel looks factory finished , , , and that'll screw the purist's over when they try to figure what it came off ! hehehe .

We're all living and learning , , , and if we're not OR we think we know it all ??? then there's either gonna be a BIG MESS , , , or NOTHING DONE

Weekends nearly here , , , serrious assembly time me's think's

Shrappy

 

Tomorrow I pick up the first load of panels.......its like Xmas eve!!!

 

Looks great. Nice work.

 

It's Friday .... we're all waitin to see painted panels !

Pedal looks great too

.

 

Yes I know it's Friday!!!!!!

Here they are!

I have some of the panels I wanted, but the fire wall is two colors and the second is going on today, so I will get them tomorrow or Sunday.
These will have to do for now.



This first one shows the stainless fastenings that arrived in the post today, all ready to go into the bead blast cabinet to get rid of the shiney finish! I will show an after shot later.



Here are the two front floor panels just sitting in place.



A bunch of smaller bits I won't be needing till nearer the end of the job!

 

LMAO ! I give you stick about pictures.... you post black n white photos!

Too cool my friend, too cool !










.

 

There's a name for people like you , , , posting in black and white when ya know we're hanging off the end of our key-boards waiting see how its all gonna look

And , , , Tease is the polite version !!! LMAO . .

Shrapnel