That's pretty cool on the new battery location. You might want to think about installing a Ford starter relay near the new battery location, but keep it accessible. In addition to making the electrical system safer, it will also give you a junction to hook up power wires instead of running multipe wires to the battery post (I'm guilty of that)
Thanks junkman great idea, now I just need to remember to do it! I just went through your gallery. You have some very cool pics there. I especially like this one. Thanks, hopefully the exhaust heat is not too hard on it down there. Was just screwing around with the shifter and noticed that some previous owner carved out a tiki head. Pretty cool, now I have to reuse it!
Since you are going to keep the drum brakes, and you said the drums are turned past the max diameter, I would strongly suggest you take the drums & shoes to Arizona Brake & clutch and have the shoes arced to match the drums. The new shoes are made to match the original diameter of the drum and every time the drum gets turned you will have a mis-match between the shoe and the drum. This is why drum brakes pull to one side or the other. When they are arced to match each other, it will stop like it's supposed to and you won't have to adjust them as often. It's a minimal cost for maximum benefit.
Thanks for the info, do you happen to know how much they charge for the service? Your signature speaks directly to me!! Here is a cool little read about shoe re arching.
There was a machine shop in my town that would match up the shoes & drums. I think I had it done once. The shoes will break in if you don't get them machined - no biggie. I read that article. No need to use silicone brake fluid either, just use regular Dot 3. Brake fluid should always be completly flushed out every 4 years anyway.
Not positive on the cost but I do know it is cheap. Seems like $4.00 per shoe or in that range. It is well worth it otherwise you will have the left right pull situation and that is no fun in a panic stop.
Just trying to get the windshield in tonight. Does this orientation of the windshield gasket look correct? drivers inside left hand lower. looking from outside the windshield at the drivers side lower.
I had a windshield in the rafters years ago and can't seem to find it now...kind of pissing me off a bit, I didn't want to have to buy another one. A question for any of you about the windshield. My truck has always had a gap that is about 1/4" to 3/8" at the lower passenger corner of the windshield where the windshield has always sat out away from the cab. I've had 3 different windshields in it over the years and always the same. I'm considering taking a port-a-power and pushing the lower A-pillar outboard (away from the opposite A-pillar) about 1/4" to fix this issue once and for all. Do any of you think that the tolerances of these trucks when fabricated could account for that bad dimension or defect in the cab? Do you guys think I will hurt the cab by doing this? And finally, what anchor point would you suggest I use to push from?...obviously need a solid anchor point that won't budge so that the A-pillar will budge.
Roger Wilco, Apache Matt, and thanks for the confirmation, am going to start the front window wrestling match when my help arrives. Hey Buzz, In my feeable opinon, I don't think the porta power would hurt it any more than the probable wreck that caused the cab to be off by that amount. Get crazy with it and don't look back!!!!! I know Jim will pipe in on the anchor points. On a side note because this is my build thread, I am about ready to start a fist fight with myself over these damn vent window mouldings! The old rubber is tuff to get out of the channel.
I know you shouldn't quote yourself but....... windshield didn't fit the cab its tweaked like a hooker on I-10 and Van Buren. Back to your regularly scheduled program.
Things are slowing down on the truck since work is picking up, I guess thats life. The heat is slowing me down as well. I have decided to install a step notch from Paul Hortons Welder Series, this will enable the truck to still haul a decent payload with the flipped rearend.
Hi guys Ive been following your thread and just wanted to say well done, its great to have such a detailed breakdown and have the links and pictures to refer to aswell. I have a 56 stepside too, its one of rare " small window" varieties has original 235 and 3 speed, I have a a nice 292cu in the garage with some Clifford bits on Ill see if I can post a pic or two, anyway well done Im looking forward to the next update. From Sunny London town
Welcome poopy, my wife is from England, down Weymouth way. I thought it was hard to find parts over here, you must pull your hair out trying to find stuff. Nice looking truck and 292!
Ahh Weymouth a very beautiful part of our fair isle. Yep some parts are a PITA to get hold of but like you guys, I use LMC and Brothers Ebay etc I would love to get a day or two in a decent salvage yard though, heavy parts are expensive to ship but we get by...just ! What do you drive?
Hey Poopy, that's a nice looking truck you have there! Very sanitary looking and somewhat I have in mind for mine when the time comes around. Nice to see such from the other side of the pond! Keep it up. - Bill
Mostly i drive my 87 Harley FXR but when I need to run get big parts I use the wifey's Honda Element.
Hiya, love the Harley's they are quite expensive here so for the time being I have my dream Harley on hold, something like a classic softail with wide whites will do nicely although I have seen the odd Vrod wizzing around and I am slowy get into them...I have a Buell Lightning in the garage it sounds great with a Vance and Hines pipe its peppy enough to worry me when I open it up a little so all good....
Hi Red, thanks for the comment, truck is all stock and runs really well, there is a certain whine it makes as I work the gears, I just love that, the highway speed is a little slow due to the rear gear so Ive found a 292 and a 200r4 which should help it scoot along nicely and the new tranny ( well 1982 actually ) should help lower the Rpm and give me a decent cruise speed. How are things progressing with your truck? What motor trans and rear are you planning?
Hi Red, just checked out your build, see you are using trusty 350 350 + 10, love those early vette style Calcustom valve covers I have the same set myself I used on another project, I took two bigs slabs of Aluminum to a machine shop and they made me an air cleaner to match
Poopy, my project truck is a slow progress thing due to many other demands on available funds and time. It will get there, but it will take longer than a lot of guys are able to complete a project. I will use the 350/350 with the 10-bolt posi at 2.56:1 ratio. Hoping for a good cruiser. Very nice looking small block in the Ford!
Hi Red I read an article in R & C once and Pete Chapouri once said the best hot rods are built at $50 bucks a time...I have used that phrase many times to keep myself motivated...glad you like the 40 mill Ive had that car since 95 ! its not finished yet. Just remember Hot rods are put together one nut at a time.
Alright, spent this morning making door bracket tabs to weld nuts to because I am missing 4 of the rectangle caged nuts somehow. Couple of questions I been meaning to ask. 1. Will I need to run a return line from my 2bbl carb to the gas tank or does it just require a supply? Should I try to make the supply metal tubing as much as possible or can I just run rubber fuel line? 2. My long water pump pulley I purchased doesn't quite line up with the crank pulley, its proud by not quite half a belt width. My pic angle is off a bit, the alignment is actually not quite that good. Any ideas? As always thanks in advance for the advice.
You have the wrong upper pulley. There is no need for a return line from the carb, but they were used to return from the fuel pump to the tank. If the pump has 3 connections, the small one is a return line. It's a a pain to connect it on the stock tank, but if your tank has a fitting, then it would be a good idea to run 1/4" line for the return. I like to run as much steel line as I can, with rubber only at the ends to connect where it can flex, such as at the tank, and at the inlet side of the fuel pump. Solid from the pump to the carb, except perhaps a couple inches either side of a metal inline filter. Also, bubble the end of the metal lines where rubber line goes over it so it won't pop off, which is way too exciting when it happens. The first step of an inverter double flare makes a bubble like you want. I'll look and see if I have a pulley...
I think this is the right pulley, do some measuring on yours? I'll give it to Steven today, he's meeting up with us in Tucson
I completely agree about keeping fuel hose to a minimum, especially with the 10% Ethanol fuels we have now (the EPA wants 15% soon) that attack neoprene hoses! I have far too much hose on my engine, but it is a temporary thing.
I get the exact same measurement on mine. Only thing is mine is a double pulley which will allow me to hopefully run AC one day. Also remember I cut off the front crank pulley, hope this doesn't come back to bite me.
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