There are two straps that hold it in place under the running board, Remove the running board unbolt them and it should drop out.
I am assuming that it is the same as a 53 F100 in which case you will have to remove the drivers side running board and then the bolts holding the rb brackets to the frame are removed, then you can drop the tank. Be sure to remove the fuel pump sending unit wire and disconnect the filler neck rubber connector to the tank.
Theres a inspection cover just in front of the drivers side seat, Remove it and you can get to the fuel line and sending unit wire.
Go get a electric fuel pump, on/off switch, and alligator clips, wire it up. I have a set up just for draining stuff like that, comes in handy all the time. Or start a siphon with your mouth and a short run of fuel line.
My drainplug was rusted shut, so i center punched a hole at the bottom rear. Just make sure your pilot lights are off if you have a water heater in your garage, and open all doors for ventilation.
Put a hose down in the tank into the fuel, put other end of hose into a gas can. Put an air hose blow gun into the tank filler. Stuff rag around both hoses and get as good of a seal as you can. Pull trigger on blow gun pressuring the tank. Fuel will come up hose into gas can that creates a siphon and will run by itself. You may have to plug the vent line if it has one. Gets most of it.
Wow I do have a drain plug! So much road scum built up I didnt see it at first. I couldnt seem to get a socket around it yet though. Thanks!
I've yet to see one of those drain plugs that someone could actually remove . The dissasembly mentioned above sir are correct . I generally have a piece of plywood I attach to a decent floorjack to safely lower the tank out of the chassis . Even with a jack, you still have to wiggle and fiddle with them going in and out . scrubba
Is it doable to drop the tank with 1/4 tank fuel or less via a floor jack and a 2x4? My issue right now is getting the running board off. Bolt is stuck a few turns off and the top of the bolt is a rivet head.
Cut the nut off........... it is just a carriage bolt they are cheap and you need a new one anyway The 1/4 tank will make it a little more difficult, as in the gas slops around and makes it tip but do-able. I dropped mine out and replaced it with a tank from a 67 mustang back by the rear axle.
Here I am a week later and still havent gotten the running board off, rusted nut after rusted nut. The rear rb bracket is welded on to boot. Removed the gas and the tank doesnt look half bad... What factor do you need to consider in replacing a tank? Might just leave it?? Get most the gas out and then fill it back full with a fuel tank cleaner? then drain it again before running the engine? It sat for 12 years but I dont see any rust inside. There was maybe 1/8th a tank of gas when I got to it.
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