My 31 Model A 4 banger coolent seeping issues

Hi folks im woring alot on my 1931 ford roadster pickup
I have replaced the head gasket and followed the torq specks.
by less and the Ssos.
I have a seeping spots,
from the head at some spots along the head and from the top of the nut on the head bolts.
I need help here I am not sure what to do?
I bought the standard copper head gasket (was told to be the better one)
is there a real good head gasket for this seeping issue or problems solvers,
I also used copper washers at the bolts that is seeping to the top of head bolt and nut.

 

Did you check the head and block to see if either needed to be surfaced? Why did you replace the head gasket in the first place? This might be a good question for fordbarn.com

Charlie Stephens

 

Maybe some one drilled a broken stud out, and drilled to far in the block and went in to the water jacket. I always put a little rtv on the end of the bolt before screwing in the stud. If you are using a copper gasket it will help the seeping along the driver side of the head also.

 

Hi
No I did not resurface the head or block.
I understand that the head might be warped.
the old copper head gasket was trashed and blown out at the same place it is weeping out now, I gave it a shot that it might just need replacement.
I checked the stud holes for cracks and damage I did not find any problems before I installed the new heads bolts.
I did take my time at it.
what do you guys think about the solid copper gasket that Ssos sells?

 

You also need to use a coppercoat or copper rtv to properly seal a copper head gasket

 

By the way when I got the car it was not running and so i had to take the head off to see if there was anything living or what not in the cylinders, so this part of the why I had to put a new head gasket.
I have seen all kinds of stuff in the cylinders, as others have from mice to sand and a hole lot in the middle.

 

You should do this. Alot of heads and blocks are corroded along the drivers side and do seep. Maybe some Bars leak will help. As far as the solid copper gaskets I would think if you have any imperfections then they are not going to help.

 

Some of the resto books recommend some bars leak. The old trick was to apply some heavy grease to both sides of the copper gasket. If its a solid copper gasket, not a copper clad, you can anneal the copper and it will conform to irregularities better

 

I used to work for a resto shop that specialized in A's. Coppercoat the gasket inside all of the holes. This will seal it. Also do a light coat on the gasket mating surfaces as well. If it still leaks you have a bigger problem. A copper head gasket will not seal on it's own.


http://www.summitracing.com/search/...E-K-W-Copper-Coat-Gasket-Sealer/?autoview=SKU

 

a copper crush gasket works well . copper with a crushable center . seal the studs that are in water jackets ....

 

thanks for the great info will do!

 

Cool I hear ya!

 

i hope it all works for you . remember the retorque !!!!!!!!!!

 

Don't use a solid gasket, if you do you will really know what leaks are! They are good for racing, in my opinion that is all they are good for.

 

I'm having the same problem on one of my head bolts. Coolant is seeping out of the top between the bolt and nut. I was told to put some gasket maker on it and re-torque.

 

I frequent the Forbarn allot. 90% of the seepage issues that we have with the 4 bangers is head flatness, and not re-torqueing to the 55 lbs within the first hour of running and then rechecking it once or twice after that. The spray sealants do help the copper gasket. That should be all you need as long as your not over a 6.5 to 1 compression.