OK, so let me see if I translate this correctly... 1) You got lucky 2) Drove quite a bit 3) Picked up a B&M Hydro from Tony 4) Sons championship game was at 5, not 6, 5) You were speeding 6) Didn't see any cops 7) You got lucky 8) Made it to the game on time 9) You got lucky 10) Your son, the goalie had another shutout, outstanding! That my friend is an awesome day, a perfect 10!
I don't know anything about B&M... do they still use the throttle link? ... and if so, did you find out how B&M wanted them set up?
Thanks Mark I gotta thank Tony it wasnt for him I wouldnt have it. Thanks Tony. I have quiet the problem but i will figure it out To change tranny 1 I either pull motor and tranny 2 I pull body off frame (can of warms not going to happen right now idont think) 3 Cut the welded crossmember they have in there and make a new 1 with the extra crossmember that came with the tranny. Thinking 3 is the way to go Scott it was a ten a great day!! Cant complain, Thank god! I didnt drive to ohio and back lol but i did drive 10 hours today in about 8ish I dont like them rides especially with the kid but we had to make the game it was the Championship... game Frank i got a good crossmember, a beefy yoke,B&M Tranny,the Hurst shifter(I believe) and the throttle link and bell crank etc I have a lot of research to do now i am hoping for some help form the gurus I`l post more pics tomorrow of the whole set up
Scott this ios a problem i been thinking about all day idk yet but it does look like Hurst is up tight to the tranny and to the rear and not out to the side. I dont want to change the shifter out its a cool but pain in the ass part of the car (getting in and out its right in the way of your legs when its in reverse (Park). So idk whadya ya think see ya tomorrow Even if i loose the shifter between my legs i still got the other to play with Here`s the yoke
i vote for what's behind door number 3, dave. cut out the weld in member and make the new one bolt in for future serviceability.
Mark Thats exactly what i was thinking casue if this tranny isnt any good i would have to pull everything again.... Jeff your not a pussy i know you had alot of things that you werent comfortable with on bringing car you made the right choice. I have been taking measurements and looking at what needs to be done and it looks like a alot of work, going to start on it tomorrow i guess as there is nothing going on this weekend anyway and i may beable to get it done for next weekend which is Rumblers Terryville, I think right?? Boy i hope this tranny is good..... The new tranny is about 3-4 inches shorter i thik its a 53 straight pan. the shifter is 2 inches closer to center of car aswell so there will be some changes but they may be for the better.
Nice score on the transmission, I predict it will be yet another move that will end up making it nicer to drive...keep up the good work!
next weekend is Eli's campout. weekend after is Terryville. on this end, i got the '54 engine out. ford-o is refurbed with new bell. got new bearings pressed on rear end axles. am about half done with the rear main seal project. should be back together tomorrow, and with any luck back in next week and buttoned up for Eli's. ahhh, the joy of owning and building old cars...
Patman yes i think so aswell. And it shouldnt hurt the character. Alex maybe saturday afternoon if it works for frank I have to pull floor and tranny and the crossmember out and fit the new tranny and make a new driveshaft aswell as look at what problems the shifter will give me among other things. Mark thats great keep plugging, If we get them done maybe we`ll caravan up. Eli gave me a heads up and i am going to try and make it I just gotta watch out for that Pete guy he scares me Seriously sounds like a good time. Thats what we do fix and repair and as hard on equipment i am I`m always busy Hopefully this will be it for a while.. Tommorrow i start the tear down and see what kind of mess i will get myself in to...
Ok Alex will do talked to Frank he has a customer job to take care of 1st AND I Broke the rear end or a axle in the coupe driveshaft spins but rear dont I cant win!! I gotta stop breaking stuff pretty soon all the weak stuf will be weeeded out i hope. I`ll get intouch with ya later if we can make it.
So you were giving the old transmission a good sendoff? Tsk, tsk. Meh...could have been worse, other than the obvious breakage, there wasn't any other collateral damage. The good news is that it sounds like the rebuilt engine is working just fine!
Dave, here are pics of 55-56 axle seal area. I don't see a seperate cone part that you talked about. It looks like all part of the housing. and a pic of the back of the centersection.. You may have to start a "olds rear end ID help" thread to get people to notice. I am finishing customer job right now, so I can't scour the archives for spline counts and axle shaft lengths.. Call me if you figure out what year. I'll have the contact info on that guy who has the Olds stuff. in case anyone is wondering what this is about....Dave snapped an axle shaft last night and we can't match it to one of my spares. 32-1/4" total length to tips of lug studs to other end at splines. 10 splines. My 55/56 stuff is 2" shorter I thought maybe he has a 57 up rear, but a rough measure on the carrier OD sounds like pre 57
Frank that is a retainer in there and it comes out mine looks the same Heres a pic of the axle it has been cracked for a long time and just happened to break on me i wasnt on it hard 1956 and back have 10-spline axles. 1957-58 are 29-spline and 1959-1964 are 31 spline ruiner Pat yes the 303 is running good got a good camshaft in it As i read the olds rear tech i find lots of info on what i have I believe so far its a ten spline 47-55 rear with a bolt on style yoke. I`ll post more when i find out more
Well, something is not right with the ID thread? Because my 56 axle I had in my hand while on the phone today is 16? spline.. I forget, but it was no way 10 splines. And...duh on me, I put the 56 carrier in the 55 housing with 55 axles, so they are the same spline count (55 and 56). both of mine have yokes that are held on by a nut, not a bolt. EDIT: can you get a good pic of the back side of a backing plate? My 55/56 are one piece plates. That 49/50 rear end on that old frame, had 2 piece plates, some sort of flat shield at the outer edge.
Hers some eye candy IDK what exactly it is but it has to be 47-55 i am guessing I have 1 piece backing plates Mark i sem to always do it and do it good! Slickwilly i wasnt trying
Pic #1 shows a two piece backing plate; see the lower dust shield? That's a real early rear I think, because that chassis I showed had the same setup. Maybe they changed axle design with the new bigger body in 53? I think that's when they changed. The front joint looks exactly like my stock 55 stick, and a 53 stick i have here. The rear joint is similar to my rear one, except yours has internal snap rings on two caps. My bolts are 5/16" fine, but can't tell if yours are bigger. Wow, got the trans in already? cool.
Are you serious?? That`s the old trans still in there I had to remove floor had to disconnect headers as they hit the frame and arms out front when i tried to lift motor to clear that fucking tores converter !! What a shit ass set up! Do they make a smaller converter Ok enough on rant. Look at the pics i am posting of there mess witht he crossmember I need to remove this and make a new mount that is removeable, This is redicoulous!! The front joint is the one that came with the B&M Tranny the yellow piece.. I thought it was special as it is big and beefy guess not. The tail shaft is huge i dont see me breaking that.The one on the slant pan (ld tranny) is quiet different. Yes the rear joint is 5/16 fine bolts i think this will be a weak point even with the little 303 but idk for sure?? This whole deal is going to take some time, the rear gear looks good so far with just a quick look... So i need a axle and asap! I can slip this one back in and roll it around i suspect dont see a reason why not. Need to make a new driveshaft and crossmember etc I hope this tranny is good!!
Yes, but leave the drum off, because the brakes will hang up with a crooked axle. Speaking of crooked; is there any chance the axle housing is so warped, that it put strain on the shaft on each revolution? Just thinking strange stuff here. Even with bigger HP, you will never break those 5/16" bolts. I know for fact that the cross would break first. My huge Diamond T 10 wheeler had the same setup, and when the first buyer wanted me to drive it up sharp ramps on a trailer, it made the articulated tandem rears go too far beyond the angle capacity of the rearmost Ujoint. It blew the cross out, across the street, but the bolts were fine, because of that interlocking square center deal thing. The square piece takes the load, not the bolts. Fusick Automotive? I think that's the name; Olds repro place in CT, should have rebuilt rubber trans side mounts. You probably can't bolt through the side of the frame on a channeled car, so how about a [ shaped piece about 5" long, bolted to the top and bottom frame flanges? That [ shape would sit inside the rail, pointing like this [ ]. Then you'd have a flat surface to bolt the 3-bolt pattern of the Olds crossmember to, and when the 3 bolts are removed, it could drop straight down. If you tucked the crossmember inside the rails, you probably won't be able to angle it sideways enough to have it come out of the rail to drop down? Hey my eyes are not the best; is that metallic dust on the front pilot on the old trans?
The axle was cracked for along time before it broke i think it looks it if you look at the pic in the previous post. But yes i am thinking that the rear may be bent i mean how can it not be i guess with all there welding... Good to know frank glad that cross joint should hold up to the 250-300 hp I never heard of fusick i heard of steel rubber they will redo the rubber mounts for 116.00 for the pair i think it was. thanks for the heads up on that. I made a solid pair of mounts for the mid mount and was hoping to run some rubber under it and it would be suffient but idk yet. Frank there was alot of what looked like clutch dust or metal dust on the out side of the tores and on the center pilot idk what went wrong yet i am going to take it apart at some point i have another spare tranny for parts to if needed.Again i hope the B&M is good and i need to figure out the kickdown before i drive it so i dont burn anything up!
When all you hambers gave me those tips on heat shrinking my Olds rear housing; I found out that heat/weld really moves the housing more on the front and back sides of the pressed steel housing. If you heat/weld the bottom or top of the housing, it won't move anywhere near as much. So, yours had a bunch of welding, several times, at the front sides mostly? So it might be toe'd in? Two straight edges across each outer axle flange, and measure the fronts and backs of the straightedges, to compare. You don't have much room to run the straightedges up under the fender to see how the camber is, but a shorter straight edge will tell what's up. I used 4 foot straightedges, so I had 2 feet sticking out on either side to compare. I like your idea better than stock rebuilt Olds mounts. Good choice IMO
yes it always seem to make more of a difference like that. I will post a pic of the mount i made later if ican get my ass to the shop.. If i do i am going to grind cut crossmember out and put the tranny in and mock up the new member and mounting brackets etc WEll cant make it to the shop today that damn heavy pos tranny whooped my back and it`s out of whack bad! Chiro won`t be in until tuesday he dont work mondays,I am going to ask him about that dont seem right when a guy gets all boogered up over weekend and has to wait a extra day IMO
Frank heres my rear mount a little rubber under it and it should work fine IK it should 2 pieces sandwiched but i am not that anal just enough to help cushion it.
hey dave, hows that tranny workin out for you? glad to see it finally go into something cool after sitting in the garage for for a while
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