Screw dynamat. Peel and seel great sound dampening material....

This guy.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oSImqM-VwPo&feature=player_detailpage

 

What a moran!

This is why I clean my own car AND don't buy former rental cars!

 

How heavy is it? Is it like tar? Will I be adding 200 pounds to my ride? Not that there's anything wrong with that for some folks, but in my particular case, I'm trying to make the car as light as possible for drag racing. If it only added 25 pounds but made me more comfortable, it might be worth it. But if it adds a couple hundred pounds, not so much.

I love cheap alternatives like this!

 

The noise from the pressure washer made my dog go nuts!!

 

According to the manufacturers website, it's about 5.3 oz. per sq ft.

http://www.mfmbp.com/doc/Technical%20Data%20Sheet%20-%20Peel%20&%20Seal%20(04-12).pdf

 

I'm a Victor Meldrew kind of bloke but that video of the car washing had me clutching my sides in agony!!!

 

Good information. Thanks!

 

I used it on the cab of the truck in my avatar. Cheap, easy to install, and made a huge difference in noise and heat. Only problem I have had was where my foot meets the floor right under the accelerator, it got soft under the carpet from the heat under the truck and put a cow lick in the carpet. The cheap ass carpet (from Lowes also) I used probably didn't help much, but I just put a floor mat over it. I say go for it!

 

Its def no where near that i put 2 rolls in a plastic bag from grocery store it did not rip and those are thin. i carried 3 rolls in one hand/arm so maybe 20-30 pounds i did 2 layers as well def worth it. its so weird talking in my truck now before i had to yell. now i just talk normal

 

I used the Peel N Seal also and LOVE IT !!!. No smell, very reasonably priced.
I did every square inch of the inside of my model a truck ( roof, cowl, kick panels, doors, everywhere !!. WOW waht a difference with the sound and heat blocking !! I am sold on this stuff, its thin and not heavy like you think it would be with the tar backing. once you stick it down and it gets warm, its a BITCH to get back up !!! I highly recommend it instead of Dynamat. My total cost was about $75 for it all.

 

I've used both the peel-n-seal from home depot, and fatmat. The fatmat is more effective at sound deadening IMO, and I have gotten the asphalt smell from the peel-n-seal on a 100*+ day. After a couple of really hot days, I guess it's done outgassing, and the smell goes away.

If I have a project scheduled in advance, I'll order some fatmat... if it's a last minute project, off to home depot for some peel-n-seal. They are about the same cost, but shipping on the fatmat makes it marginally more expensive (local stereo shop carries dynamat only).

Either is very effective as a sound deadener / insulator, and they are a bargain compared to the raping you get if you go with dynamat.

 

I went that route with the 58 GMC I have. Mixed the spheres (I used hollow not solid) in white traffic paint (denser that the other) and applied it with a brush over the epoxy primer then applied double backed foil insulation. Can't speak to the change however cause its still in the garage while I do the paint prep.

 

Glad to hear somone else has used this product. I did floors, sides and roof of my 1930 Chevrolet and it has been great. No problems.

 

I heard the stories of asphalt smell, so I went to Home Depot and got Frost King self adhesive duct insulation. It's 12" wide and 15' long for $18.77 and it is a dense foam back instead of asphalt. Worked really well and sticks great too!
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/catalog/servlet/Search?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&keyword=self%20adhesive%20duct%20insulation&Ns=None&Ntpr=1&Ntpc=1&selectedCatgry=SEARCH+ALL

 

I figure I'll use a lot of the cheap stuff, and if it works just OK, I'll just add some expensive stuff. it's going on over POR15, so even if it does get wet underneath, it should hold until I'm dead.

 

Hey Guys,

I know years and years ago guys would take roofing tar/sealer and brush it on the inside of there doors then cover it with 1/8" or 1/4" cardboard then another thin coat of tar sealer, they said that it would make a big difference in cutting down the noise and made the door close like it was off of a Mercedes. So I would think the Peel&Seal would be no different. I do like the idea of the Frost King Duct Insulation

Bill

 

I used a different product from Lowes. It has foil on both sides with a layer of small bubblewrap between. It is a little thicker but insulates very well. Another difference is no peel n stick. I used 3M spray adhesive and it worked great. No tar and less weight.

 

I used it on my 41 truck and it made a huge difference in ride noise. I will definitely be using it again in the 49! Glad other people are trying the low buck method as opposed to the high priced " Brand Name" products....of course I am CHEAP!!!

Tim the Toolman

 

currently...that would be me. its super easy... now when i get rich and can afford carpet like you all, probably wont us the hose.

 

I tried that bubblewrap stuff in my last o/t van when I did an interior in it but I couldn't see where it made a big difference. But it was cheap and I'll pull it out and save it when I junk it - it's a beater anyways.

 

Good info, great post! I'm ready to insulate my car and Dynamat is out!

 

I used this stuff in the Olds in my Avatar. I think it actually reduced the weight of the car after removing all the old filthy and damp Jute Padding. I installed it on a hot summer day. I could smell tar for about 2 days, just long enough to make me worry that it would always smell that way. It went away and has been fine ever since.

 

So this stuff is for the cabin/trunk area, is there a inexpensive alternative to the underside of a hood. The hood on my 65 is currently sans insulation, same on the 60 for that matter.

 

Likewise, I quoted out Dynamat and OUCH!!! I also bought some Peel & Stick and the Frost King mat also. I was actually thinking of putting the Pee l& Stick, then a Layer of Frost King to mimic the Dynamat multiple layer system.

Anyone ever do this? Is there benefit to one layer vs. two layers?

Thanks,
Joe

 

I put two layers on my firewall to help insulate heat transfer. Just put a single everywhere else. I didn't do the insides of my doors as there was no way to get in there without cutting it up in tiny pieces. I did do the trunk divider by making a panel to go over the braces and covering it with mat.

 

I was about to send my Chevy to get the lizard skin but after this thread I might just make a little trip to the hardware store! Thanks fellas, you all just saved me some $!

 

I am also using Peel and Seal in my Shoebox and it works great. I have also heard about the possibility of it falling off vertical surfaces. As a way to build in a safety factor, I also used some 3M 90 contact cement before installing the Peel and Seal. It's not budging.

 

In Florida in a roadster, it ALWAYS rains.

Don

 

I have used the regular bubble wrap type shiney foil insulation from Lowes. Its cheap, Its very lite weight, and most of all it works very well. I think its insulates 99% of heat transfer, it has a small R value which doesnt matter to me, Heat transfer is a car is what gets ya.

I used spray adhesive and duct tape, and It has been great.

My biggest concern with peel and seal would be weight, but it may smooth out a ride in a lite weight vehicle, kinda like a load of wood in the bed of a pick up.

 

If using it in winter, try to preheat verticle body panels if you can. I even pre-heated the rolls, just a bit, by keeping them near the woodstove. But with both the panel and the peel/seal nice and warm...you'd better get it in the right spot, because it's like a magnet


The car in my avatar was wood framed, but I did steel tubing. I went overboard with the stuff and now when I slam a door, it still has that woodframe sound, not tinny like it was.