Screw dynamat. Peel and seel great sound dampening material....

Glad to hear someone else has used this product. I did the complete inside of my 1930 Chevrolet and it works great.

 

It doesnt like to stick on overhead surfaces, add in the heat from the engine and I dont think it will work for that.

I use this stuff a lot and have had no complaints at all, other than if you stick it to something and have to try to get it back off.

 

way cool, that looks exactly like dynamat

 

Don: I used a similar product from Lowes that I believe was duct insulation. It seems fine and is foil backed so I don't anticipate any problems plus it cost only $13.00. I even have some left over! Tim

 

This looks like a clean and easy install. What did you all use to cut and smooth it out?

 

I use it and love it, I learned it does not like on vertical, smooth or cold surfaces too much, so I buy foil tape and tape the edges where needed. I don't do the roof, because it will come off. On places that I want to to stick even more, like small pinholes in the floor, I heat it up a little with a blow torch (just a little) and press down to embed it into the pinholes.

 

It's nice to see that all the knuckleheads and morons are not in the United States....

 

For that price I'll be trying it in my '50...

 

MSDS if anyone is interested
http://www.solutions.mfmbp.com/MFM%20MSDS%20PEEL%20AND%20SEAL.pdf

 

i use it and the foil bubblewrap in tandem i cut the peel and stick with either sissors or a razor blade knife its easy quick and cheap

dynamats shop is about 10 mins from me

 

Used Peel n' Stick on a rebuild for 72 Camaro, First time we put it on, it started falling off the interior roof and side panels, We found a little secret, use a heat gun and pre soften the back of the stuff and pre heat the place you put it , stick it in place, then use a little roller to press it in place and it sticks so good you cannot peel it off again, at least in one piece.

 

isnt dynamat butyl (as in rubber kind) and this just tar based?

these tar/asphalt based roofin mats have been cheap mans silence mats for ages. they do ok, but not as good as "real" mats. expensive stuff is made of different material.. it makes sense its different priced too then.

i never understood the price of dynamat.. well i did understand, i just never saw the need to spend that much on silencing my own rides.. these cheaper methods have done well enough for me. (often i tried to silence my cheap junkers that cost less to buy than the dynamat treatment would of been)

right now im trying to find a cheap butyl based silencer mat, so i was hopeful this would of been it.. but its just the same stuff i known before.

 

Sounds to me like someone needs to come up with a 'heat table' - a piece of wire shelving with some heat elements under it? - where you could lay out your strips in the order you plan to lay them, and have it precook the things to ~ 200degF for a nice gooey install. Maybe use an old fluorescent shoplight fixture for the housing, if you can find one that's all metal?

I'm sure it'd need some experimentation to get it right, hot enough to be gooey but not drip, but it'd probably make the whole job go a lot faster. Just don't set it on anything flammable while it's on. Maybe I'll have to do it for the '64 wagon, acres of floorpan in that bugger. Just bring an old pair of welding gloves to do the actual picking-and-sticking...it'll dampen sound better if it's thoroughly stuck to the substrate, too.

Anyone got any suggestions on the heat elements/thermostat/circuitry?

Either that or I've got to pick the three hottest days of the year and lay them out in the sun for an hour...

Our E39 BMWs ('98 540 and '00 M5) have massive amounts of sound deadening under the carpet, something around 1.5in of molded foam on the back of the carpet over the tunnel area, and around an inch under the rest of the carpet, in addition to the asphaltic mat on the pan. On those cars the tunnel's got the driveshaft, a heatshield under that, and the exhaust pipes paired under the heatshield, so pretty much all your drivetrain noise sources are in one place.

 

Is there a concern with regards to fire and potential burn rate with this stuff compared to other methods like Dynamat?
Just askin'...Dynamat might be WORSE for all I know! LoL

 

I like the fat mat.about the same price as peel and stick

 

how are you guy prepping the surface before applying it to the floor or doors?

 

I did zero prep and it stuck fine inside my door I went right over the rust and buildup. I then used a wheel to press it down and it's on there for good unless it gets really really hot apparently. I highly recommend it. It was such a big difference

 

worries about fire seem a little like wondering if the horse had a bridle on when it went out the barn door.... sure, asphalt burns; how much does the average old car have on it already in the form of sound deadeners, undercoat, etc.... an accident bad enough to set the car on fire will more than likely have killed the occupants already.

most of the local stereo shops use roll after roll of peel-n-seal instead of dynamat. they put the money saved into better things.

 

The MSDS attached in an above post doesn't seem to rate the flammability as a concern at all. I would imagine that stuff would burn slowly but would drip. Napalm anyone?

I think there are far more flammable materials used even in old cars. The foam in your seat for one.

If I had a car I wanted to seal I'd give it a try.

 

Im sold! I will be using this on my wife's 33 Chevy 3 window for sure. Now about my car; I will probably be the only one to ask this especially on this site. Has anyone used it on a glass car?

 

My wondering about the potential for burning had more to do with wiring shorts possibly igniting the car due to close contact with the tar. Seems like people completely cover the inside of the body with this stuff!

Certainly there ARE more ignitable areas, but usually only in select places like the seat or carpet. This stuff goes everywhere!

Hey...no harm in asking! LoL

 

Kool job

 

I actually used this stuff to seal a minor roof leak over my garage, which is, ironically, its intended purpose. It works great, and has stuck to my asphalt roof shingles no problem. That was two years ago.

A couple months ago, I needed to seal up a couple firewall holes from the inside on my car, as well as around the gas pedal rod, and I spotted the remaining roll of peel and stick on a shelf.

Slapped it on, and it works great. This shit DOES NOT like to come off after it's in place for awhile. I'm sold and will use it as a sound deadener, now that I know a bunch of you other yayhoo's already did it, too!

 

do you happen to know of something that is inexpensive that will work for the hood?

 

Maybe not the most FINANCIALLY feasible solution, unless you were planning on installing this stuff for a living, but...

I used to lay a lot of ceramic tile, and one product that I've come across on more than one occasion is a thin mat that you mud in under the tile, with an electrical cord that is left exposed near an outlet. You plug it in and it warms the tile from beneath so that you don't have a cold floor in the winter.

If you could secure it to the underside of the floor pan, say, with magnets or something, then plug it in and let it heat the floor of the car one section at a time, you might get a pretty good bond. OR, you could just set the mat on the floor and lay out your strips on top of it to get them nice and warm.

As far as warming a whole roll, I would say just pick up a cheap electric blanket out at Wally World, wrap the entire roll in the blanket and set to HI. Of course, the blanket is going to more than likely get messed up, but again, none of this is really "cost effective".

A quick search online brought me this;
http://www.thermosoft.com/radiant-floor-heating-products/shop/thermotile-120v/
http://www.thermosoft.com/radiant-floor-heating-products/shop/thermofloor-120v/
but you can actually buy this stuff at Lowe's or Home Depot just a few aisles away from the Peel-N-Seal. But this will give you the general idea.

 

I'm surprised there are so many people using this stuff and getting good results. The FatMat and Peel and seal are exactly the same thing, a tar based roofing material. The FatMat is just rebadged. These tar based "sound deadeners are far less effective than butyl rubber based deadeners like Dynamat. The adhesives used are also inferior. In my younger, more frugal years, I tried using the Peel and Seal a few times only to be disappointed later on when it would always fall from vertical surfaces, and had a 100 percent adhesion failure rate inside the doors as well. I have been using the Dynamat on my own cars, and customers as well without any problems. Is it more expensive....yes, but in my opinion, it is a far superior product.

 

I've used both and see absolutely no difference, other than the ridiculous difference in price. Any local roofing or insulation company will have this stuff in stock at a discounted price even over the "Big" hardware stores.

How Dynamat has stayed in business is a mystery to me. It's nothing but re-labled generic roofing material. Period...!

 

I feel like someone needs to put some down on an old fender or body panel and light it on fire. Video tape it and then we will know what happens.

 

I dont see what the fire rating matters. You lay this stuff down, then lay carpet padding (flammable) and then carpet (also flammable).

Why does it matter if the underlayment is fire retardant as there is a lot of stuff to be burnt up before it gets to it.

 

You guys are all correct...I was thinking too hard!