What's the best Ford Flathead to build on

I'm lookin' to build a traditional hot rodded Ford flathead. Now I have to admitt that I know little (O.K. nothing) about these engines other than these are 1 of the 3 best looking engines when customized. The other 2 being the Hemi (obviously) and the Chevy 348/409.

Anyways.... I want to build one using original Fenton heads, multiple carbs and other Rod parts from the period. Now I know these were made from '32 to '53 but I'm sure that there are years that are better and years to stay away from. I also know that there is a difference in the amount of head bolts. Which ones should I be looking for and what should I be looking for when I find the right one?

I'm not looking to do something modern or stupid (performance wise) with it, just a traditional build.

Now I did find a 14,000 mile engine out of a 1935 1-1/2 ton truck that still wears its original paint, and it looks mint. But I'm not mechanically stupid and know that "pretty" don't mean ****. I also found a 59AB (???) that the seller claims is from a '46-'48. What's with the 59AB designation and are there others?

Thanks for any info youz guyz provide!

 

8ba (49-54) V8 has an upright distributor as well as separate cast bell housing which are 2 factors that place it ahead of it's earlier '59' brother.

If you are just starting out, you would do well to join the Ford Flathead Forum as that's where you'll be able to separate the bull from the beef. There is too much mis-information flying around non Flathead specific forums
-If you want to eliminate all the ********, fluff and useless posts, ask those that drive and work on them everyday.

http://www.flatheadv8.org/phpBB/viewforum.php?f=6&sid=73cbbfbf049bb7b24ba993713e5c625d

Also, The knowledgeable experts at the Forum have done a great job of creating/maintaining the Techno Site (~14 years).
This is THE place to do your research and as stated above, it'll help you separate the bull/rumor/retorect.
http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/flathead.htm

Another great resource is Mac Van-Pelts site, he does a good job of hosting up parts diagrams and such....
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/

For instance, here is Macs link to id'ing the various versions of Flathead blocks and parts.
http://www.vanpeltsales.com/FH_web/flathead_specifications.htm


Often the biggest challenge is in finding an engine. For this I have placed ads in county and small town papers "Looking for old Ford Grain Trucks with Flathead Engines, Need Not Be Running" ((but it should turn over))
and every time I place the ad I get 2 or 3 calls from old farmers who have retired trucks sitting in the field.
Find/search out engines that are sealed as in the air cleaner, spark plugs and all accesories are in place and have prevented the weather from ruining the block. If you find a weather sealed engine that turns over then you have a good chance of making it run. If it runs then you have a good chance of using it as is. This tip can save you money, I have pulled dozens of sealed engines many of which are good runners as is.




Many old farm/grain trucks can be had for a few hundred $$. -I pull the engine and part the rest. Most Farm trucks (and there will be lots just north of the border) will have not driven more than 40,000 miles and may therefor still have relatively rust free bodies. Parting out and selling a decent cab easily pays for the cost of the total farm truck in which I 'score' a free engine. If you do look to your northern neighbors, watch out for 52-54 Mercury M600 grain/farm trucks as they would have come with a 4" crank and really decent oem cam.



To sum it all up, there are still lots of farm trucks out there with the 49-54 Flathead/8BA being the engine of choice.

.

 

The best one is the one you find that's not busted. Do some research as to where the blocks break and what can and can't be repaired. Mine was a 276ci Merc from '51. Bored, big cam, adj lifters, dual carbs and alum heads. Ran great!

 

"59" IMO I like the outlet in the center and the dizzy up front. I just think it looks better than the 8BA and you can still fit a 4" crank in it.

 

Thanks for the info so far guys especially you moefuzz.

I was talking to an old timer (ha ha I'm 55 and he was older than me) last week that was a big time champion roundy-round racer back in those days and he was telling me to watch out for cracks. He was also trying to talk me into building a MoPar slant 6 'cause he said he won many races with them, but that's not going to happen.

So what about these cracks? Where are they and are they something to worry about? Can they be repaired? He did mention something about them being around the valves.

 

Us either a 59AB or an 8BA just find a good block to start with or make sure the block is not cracked along the pan rail as this is the death of the block, the 59 can be made to use the 8ba dist and vice virsa, most blocks can be repaired by pinning cracks if the block hasn't been bored too great or can be sleeved but be prepaired to spend a bunch, that is why its best to find a block that is not cracked through the cyl bores or through the to the valves, they are out there but getting scarcer each month as more and more people want to build them. Remember that you will spend a lot if you want to make it go fast..............and as Moe said the best flathead site on the net to me is http://flatheadv8.org/phpBB/index.php just a personal favorite and you will get correct answers to any flathead question............

 

What about this 59ab! The guy wants a grand for it, seems high. Is it worth looking into? Could I run different ****** setups with that?

Carl... I'm not looking at a high horsepower build just something that was respectible for its day. Although I do know where there is a Cragar 4-71 blower that I can probably con out of a guy but right now I'm thinking just multiple carbs.

 

the holy grail for me would be a factory relieved "99A" truck block

 

Okay, would this '35 be one of those?

The guy with the 14,000 mile '35 out of the 1-1/2 ton is asking $400.00.

 

You'll hate me for this, but when I went looking for a flathead for my '29 Model A rpu, that was the first one I found. I knew it was a pre 59A, but didn't know exactly what I had until I got it apart and did some research. Came out of a fire truck, very low miles, no cracks, crank was near perfect with standard journals. It was my flathead find of a lifetime.

Bob

 

A '35 would be a 21 stud. Not the best choice.

Bob

 

One thing about flatheads is almost every car has had a replacement engine and you have to know what to look for, if it is a 35 with pumps in the heads you have to look out for a babbeted engine, stay away from that one and try to find one with inserts, although its tough finding bearings for those these days............ best to stay with a 59AB or 8BA

But that being said that is the fun of trying to locate the block you need, you never know what is inside, kinda like " a box of Chockolates" ya never know what is inside and sometimes you get lucky............. I lucked out once and got a Ford "power pac rebuild" 8BA still stamped with the rebuilders stamp ...........

 

So the rebuilds are only marked inside? Or am I misunderstanding it?

 

IMO 1946/48-59A/B hands down. You can't beat the looks of the centred water outlets and crab distributor. If you are new to Flatheads do yourself a favour and purchase a few books and start reading. Probably the best and most relevant book from a beginners perspective is the Ron Holleran "Nostalgia" book, I have read it over and over and over… http://flatheadv8.org/holleran1.htm

I am currently building a 1946-69A (canadian) that I purchased complete and RUNNING off CL for $650 and I am in love with it. In a perfect world I would be building a 1936 LB "pump in head" engine but the A/B is will have too do for now…

 

No, the reference is to a metal tag often attached to the block by some re-builders.
(usually near the front of the block) But ... not always.

Like wideglide says;

If you are new to Flat heads do yourself a favor and purchase a few books and start reading. Probably the best and most relevant book from a beginners perspective is the Ron Holleran "Nostalgia" book, I have read it over and over and over… http://flatheadv8.org/holleran1.htm

 

Waddy: After ready all the replies and digesting all the info, I would suggest (from experience) that you look for a "known good " engine. One that is in running condition. Use it for a year.season and see if its really what you want. My truck has a 46 engine, which I rebuilt last year. They're not difficult to build but not cheap either. The valve train work is pretty consuming. Get your feet wet and see how you like it. Tim

 

Building an 8ba is much cheaper than any other flathead. You can put 59 heads on it with some water p***ages blocked and it will look awesome. Plus the distributor is easily reachable. Finding later blocks is sometimes easier and I can even get parts at the local napa. Just something to think about

 

8BA with a Merc crank or a 8CM.

 

Yup

 

Okay, I've seen tags attached to heads. There's a br*** one attached to a flatty at the Henry Ford Museum. That one is pretty cool, if I remember correctly it said "Ser.#001" and "Hold for H. Ford".

I will take the advice you and W.G. gave and pick up that book. I picked one up about building a Hi-Perf Small Block Chevy and picked up a lot of little details about SBC's. It's always the little details that are most important. Me having extensive knowlage in Pontiacs and Harleys can use all the help I can get when I start thinkin' outside of the box.

I'm not concerned! I like a challenge and have wanted a warmed up flatty for years, okay decades, and now is as good of time as any. Problems... quirks... issues... Well that's just part of the challenge and one that will keep me going. I hate being done with something, I get bored.

As far as the cost goes..... Let's just say, I'm a good picker! Swap meets are a p***ion and diggin' for an item is a goal. I'm not loaded, hell since my business burned back in '07 I just get by. But if I have to I will buy the right stuff to do a project justice. Hey I'm a drag racer and you know what we say... Ya' wanna play, you're gonna pay!

See this is what I need to know. I'm use to Pontiacs where you know what year you need to get the parts you want. Sure there's part numbers, block & head numbers, but you start with a year. With the flatty it seems like there are a series of a number and 2 letters that designate the good parts and not a particular year or years.

It's kind of hard walkin' the walk without talkin' the talk if ya' know what I mean?

 

I will add one thing. When I was building the engine for my truck the guys at Vanpelt in Cincy were extremely helpfull!!!!! You can call them and they will talk you through it. Have fun. PM me if you want.

 

If you trust the Early Ford V8 Club members...they like to tour with 49 - 53 flatheads. They are built the best for open road driving.

If you want a nostalgic rod looking flathead most were the mid years 39 - 48 ,but they are a bit tougher to work on.

If you want early Ford go with the early flathead 32 - 38...most of these you will find in unmolested vintage Fords of the same age...these blocks have the most iron in them and are less likely to crack.

All three give you a different feel ... my early one runs out the smoothest.

Guy Weintraub
President
Early Ford V8 Club - Dallas

 

French block

 

I would also suggest the following thread ...

MOTOR, flat head build ... tips tricks??

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=23305&showall=1

You'll find it in the Tech section here on the HAMB.
It starts slow, but read the whole thing; it contains a lot of VERY good information.

 

in my opinion,,i'd go with a 59ab,,,easy to adapt a later trans to(5speed),,the heads and distributor are in the right places and look good...run a crab 41/42 crab dist cap on it.....takes up less room than an 8ab for engine room ,, i prefer them if i was going to do a flathead...but thats just my opinion...

 

Another good bet is to look for 59 L,X or Z blocks. These are supposedly the blocks built for the military in WWII to military specs. More tin in the iron (less prone to cracking, especially between the block and valve seat) and thicker cylinder walls. I have an L block and was talking to an longtime engine builder, Ed Bingelli, and he told me he used to bore those blocks 7/16 and not even think about it. Hard to find though.

 

So.....

Would I be better off putting something together with various parts or start with a complete engine?

It seems like, with the Pontiacs, it may be better to collect the different (better) parts to build a good flathead. Or would that be more difficult to do?

 

Your complete engine will be the least expensive part of your build! You can go parts if you know what your looking for but you will get a better deal on a complete engine. Case in point, I got my 8-BA for $150 delivered to my house. Reno swap meet. Complete engine with clutch, bell, carb, starter, distro, cap, wires etc...all with original paint but frozen. I have a 59-A in parts and have $450 into it and am still missing a crank, cam. If your going hi perf, then buy parts...you won't use the OE intake, exhaust, heads, cam, valves etc.....But I'd shop for a complete engine....there are lots out there. This way you know what the oe parts look like and how they go together etc.

 

Subscribing to this. I've been asking myself some of these same questions. I've been reading Frank Oddo's book "Ford Flathead Builders Handbook 1932-1953".

 

You still didn't say just what you are looking for ie: a good street engine, sumpthing with a lot more HP, what are you putting it in makes a big difference in just how to build it and what parts to usesomeone mentioned Ron Hallorans book Nostalgia its great reading for you I would highly recommend it !
You need to have a plan and don't expect miricles out of the flattie because they won't spin 7000 and have 500 HP without more money than you can think of..........
It ain't whatcha got, its the feeling of putting together a 60-70 year ol piece of machinery and keeping up with traffic ................. Plus hell it makes Henry smile..............