Screw dynamat. Peel and seel great sound dampening material....

In this thread http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51399&highlight=insulation&page=6 starting about post 100 or so 63ChevyII starts posting about several tests that he did with various combinations of the cheap stuff and the expensive stuff.

 

My buddy used the same stuff for its intended purpose my roof. Your right is doesn't like to come off. We had some sudden high winds as he was prepping the porch roof. I watch him almost tumble off trying to pull it loose. I just put some of that car show jute /foil in one of my cars but I think I'll put this in to cut down on road noise. I used dynamat in my Chevy and its expensive and they never give you enough, you suppose to strategically place it. Thanks I heading to Loews in the am to stock up.

 

I used the foil backed bubble wrap on my Model A and I like it alot also. I think I am going to use peel and seal on my Hudson after reading most of this.

 

Worked great in my 55 Olds and I've gotten it for others.

 

So I decided to spend my morning at Lowe's doing some investigative research. Besides the building and lumber department, the flooring department had a wealth of interesting products. I asked about a sound deadener for use under laminate floors, and was shown a roll of material, about 1/8" thick, made of what looked like the stuff you pull out of the dryer lint trap. It has a plastic backing. A 100 sq. ft. roll, probably enough to do a car and a half or more, was $55 and some change. I also found "Liquid 2-sided Tape" in the peel and stick tile section. It comes in a squeeze bottle with a foam roller on top. So here's my plan...

http://www.lowes.com/pd_90773-22925...loor+underlayment&pl=1&currentURL=&facetInfo=

Mix 50/50 ceramic micro beads and micro bubbles into my POR-15. Once it sets up, roll a nice border of liquid tape (or vinyl flooring adhesive, haven't decided yet...) and piece-fit the laminate floor underlayment over the top of the home-made POR-15 lizard skin.

Then my new carpet.

Any thoughts?

 

I used Tite seal from Lowe's




Comes in a 4" by 33' roll..

so far its working. The car has thrush mufflers and exhaust comes out right in front of the rear tires. I can tell there has been a significant drop in interior temps and its definitely quieter...

 

I used Reflectix. Home Depot. I live in snow country and in the spring this stuff is at the recycle center FREE after people open there cabins in the spring. You can double wall it easy, all you need is a can of spray glue.

 

I like not hearing the radio or the person next to me. Besides isn't the sweat off your forehead relative humidity?

 

Then obviously this thread isn't for you...

 

My only worry would be the sound deadened trapping moisture. I don't know that product's consistency.

The plan sounds good to me if a touch experimental, so take notes & pictures & let us know how it goes.

I might do the POR alone first and as a second layer, the micro bubbles mixed with Kool Seal latex roof repair, comes in a gallon can. But that's me.

 

As a flooring installer im familiar with several different styles of laminate pad, they do also make brands specifically for sound deadening purposes that are more dense. Dont know that I'd pay to use them in my old car but I like the way you think. Thats what its all about,looking for new stuff and trying things out, thats what starts these kinda threads in the first place.. good work. Almost all of those pads are also amoisture/vapor barrier as well. I would consider a 3M style spray adhesive for sticking ot rather than 2 sided tape, and use a nice sharp razor for clean cuts. They also have a thin but heavy rubber style pad used under carpet we refer to as "dead mans pad" thats super dense and and would probably work ok under your cars carpet.

 

I thought about the moisture thing after I had left the store, and probably should have asked while I was there, so I pulled up the above link when I got home. Now, I've had concrete subfloors pretty much everywhere I've lived for the past 38 years, and I can recall on occasion some "sweating", especially with sudden weather/temperature changes. But this stuff says it "Can be installed over wood or concrete sub floors" and "Offers great moisture protection", so, I dunno.

I also saw the Tite-Seal mentioned in post #126 on the shelf right next to the Peel-N-Seal. Perhaps doing a perimeter seal with Tite Seal to secure the 1/8" floor underlayment would keep any moisture out?

I guess maybe I've always been one to do it my own way in hopes of finding the "better" way. Never been content to go with the flow. It doesn't ALWAYS work out, but I couldn't sleep at night if I didn't at least try. Little projects like this have always intrigued me. I don't know if it's the research involved or if it's just the challenge of doing something that hasn't been tried yet. Either way, I'm happy to be the guinea pig!

 

If water were to get beneath it it's gonna stay and its spreads like crazy when trapped under that pad. If you decide to use it look for one without the plastic layer .

 

I'm going to try this stuff in my 56 wagon.Thanks

 

I actually looked at the 6lb carpet pad while I was there. I just can't imagine it allowing the carpet to stay tucked under the sill plates with almost a half inch of thickness. If you push DOWN with your heel and compress it a half inch, that translates to 1/4" of inward movement around the perimeter of the indent. When you let up pressure and the 1/2" indent returns to flat, the surface area around the perimeter of the former indent pushes back outward 1/4", and I'm just picturing a loose fitting carpet with a bunch of slop and rippling near the sills over time.

That's why I started thinking floating laminate floor underlayment. It has to have a moisture barrier since laminate flooring is very susceptible to water damage, and the Companies who make the flooring don't want to be doing a shit-ton of warranty replacements. So it makes sense that they would produce an underlayment that would help reduce that risk, and the catch all being that if you DIDN'T use the special underlayment you couldn't collect on the warranty. So there must have been some R&D there.

I'm loving where this is going so far... Home-made POR-15 Lizard skin that 1)treats surface rust 2) forms a heat barrier and 3) deadens sound, then a second layer that forms a moisture barrier AND a sound deadener (and probably block some heat as well), and everything together is just over 1/8" thick.

 

Perhaps I should install it plastic layer side down? Then maybe go over the top with the Tite Seal mentioned in post #126, and use the Tite Seal to secure all the edges...

 

I used the jute with reinforced foil on the roof and rear panel. I used aluminum 'duct' take to seal up the seams. You could tell the difference from the first time the door was closed.

 

this stuff does work, BUT if you ever have to take it off the tar can be a mother. my 59 apache had something similar on the floor when i bought it. heat gun, scrapers and it was still a pain in the arse. ezcool insulation is another guy to check out. hes an alliance vendor. good shit, and 200 sq ft is 120 bucks i believe and thats without the discount. glad to see the truck is still coming along blake

 

This came up today during a little cruise in the DeSoto. (only roll on bedliner on the floors) It gets hotter than hell in there now. Going to head down to Lowes asap for some of this stuff. I'll report back, but seems well tested at this point.

One question though... Can you use this product without carpet for a while? Is the metal backing thick enough that the heel of your shoes doesn't gouge through?

 

THIS is rather interesting...

http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay...gId=10051&cmRelshp=req&rel=nofollow&cId=PDIO1

Waterproof, makes a great heat shield (ask the potholder I've got in my kitchen...), flame resistant (will smolder, but you'll never see it burst into flames), sound deadening (often used in recording studios on the walls), lightweight, thin and made by nature, so no toxic fumes, etc...

Thoughts?

 

i think the cork will crumble after a few years, they use it in old homes as insulation and ive seen how it looks when it gets old. maybe it would work for a few years but who knows? wouldnt hurt to try it out.

 

The products they sell at HD and Lowes differ from Dynamat in two ways which might or might not bother you:

1) They don't stick as well, especially on vertical surfaces. Under carpet, it won't matter but on door panels it might come loose over time.

2) They are thinner and therefore offer a lower 'sound deadening' rating. If anyone is selling a home improvement product as thick as Dynamat I have yet to see it.

I used Dynamat in my car until I found Rattletrap which is just as good (sticks as well and is as thick) for less money.

$1200 to do a truck cab is just a rip off.

 

I was wondering the same thing....

 

Grace ice shield (& others) has a butyl adhesive, not tar, more heat resistance, less tar smell when hot, higher cost, harder to find. I will probably go with the tar based products on my floor but not the roof. Inside a car on a 100 degree day gets very very hot, I would worry about it failing & falling.

 

I would say it would be fine...I would buy a cheap mat or maybe just grab a rug to be safe but I don't see a problem unless high heels were in the car.

 

Gotcha, I will just grab a scrap piece of rubber from work to use. Lord knows that we have plenty of it lying around the shop.

So for the hood of the car, should I just bite the bullet and get the good stuff? Doesnt sound like there is a real inexpensive alternative.

 

I used this stuff on my 1930. Great...

 

Concerning getting the peel and seal off,my Nomad floors were coated with roofing tar or similar stuff,when I bought it.
No problems for a few years until the master cylinder started to leak and ran down the insde of firewall on to the
toe and floor boards.Brake fluid turned the tar into a "bubbling crude".
Real easy to scoop off with a putty knife.

 

I used it in my A. Great stuff. No need for Dynamat when you've got this stuff.

 

Read this post from start to finish. Installed the material on the 50 Merc floors. Looks great, easy to install, cost effective, and will serve the purpose for a fraction of the cost. Gotta love the HAMBers for their ideas and spreading the word! Many thanks to the OP of this thread and all the contributors.