My project A got some work done today. After looking at some trick stuff NealinCA did on his F1 steering boxes, it got me thinking. As he said, some boxes were clamped in place rather than being flanged. So... I cut the flanges of my Gemmer F100 box, chucked it in the lathe and turned the output housing side down to 1.875" (1 7/8). At that point I had intended to make a flange and weld it on, but that's where I changed my plans. Then I made a 2 piece "clamp" out of 1"x3" steel, with a 1.875" hole in it to clamp the box where the flange used to be. I located the box in the frame to clear everything and drilled a 1.375 hole for the shaft in the frame. Welded a pad to the lower part of the frame and drilled it for the clamp. After mocking it up, I then drilled a hole in the upper part of the clamp and threaded it for a bolt into the upper half for added strength. So, the new box mounts with three bolts, 2 from the bottom and one from the top side. It's rock solid and seems to work really well. The frame will still get boxed. Last thing was weld the original holes and bolt everything back together. I don't think it's better than welding a flange on it, it's just a different way to do it.
VW Micro buses have a similar clamp system, bolted to the bottom of the frame rail and clamped tight when in place. I'm sure some HAMBr has seen it and used it as I have many many moons ago!!!
Hell of an idea. By the way, what year F-1 boxes are best to use or is there any difference. Thank you all in advance.
Great idea and simple engineering. I'm at that point on my A. I used the VWbus on one years ago, and need one or a F-100 myself. I liked the VW 'cause you could loosen the clamp and make it any angle that you needed. Keep up the good work...
You guys might just be the group to help me! I have a 32chevy with an F 100 1953 - 55 Gemmer box. The arm has a Chevy bow tie on it so must be Chevy. BUT the arm is too short, so it will not turn to the stops on the back plates! I noticed it had a large turning circle! I estimate the arm should be 2" longer. It is the split clamp with bolt on the box, and about a 1/2" a hole at the other end. What do I buy?Thanks, norm
You guys might just be the group to help me! I have a 32chevy with an F 100 1953 - 55 Gemmer box. The arm has a Chevy bow tie on it so must be Chevy. BUT the arm is too short, so it will not turn to the stops on the back plates! I noticed it had a large turning circle! I estimate the arm should be 2" longer. It is the split clamp with bolt on the box, and about a 1/2" a hole at the other end. What do I buy?Thanks, norm Forgot to say the arm I have is 6" center to center. It also has a 2" offset.
Get some pics of what you have, and start a new thread. Someone will help. They may not see it here buried in another guys thread.
Also have a 1930 model A and I'm going in for shoulder surgery and had heard that the f100 box conversion is the way to go. I also would like to know what year f100 steering box should I be looking for? Thanks for any input.Doug
yruhot if you can pm me and I can point you to the machine shot/steering rebuilder I used here in town.
Slick…but usually isn’t the new flange welded on at a slight angle to position the steering column to where it needs to be for the driver position in the car? In the clamp it can be rotated for up- down adjustments, but what about the left-right adjustments?
I had the same question as A boner, not an issue with the straight ladder frames but others I'm assuming would require the block machined with a slight wedge, bored at an angle or welded to the rail at an angle or are we missing something ? I have a mid 30's Dodge pickup box & a Chevy box both of which utilize the clamp on method & have found the mounting angle can sometimes require slimming the pitman arm for swing clearance against the frame rail.
So in other words, this clamp set up probably works when using a stock Ford Model A frame. Can anyone confirm this?
Sure looks like a stock A frame to me. Could weld the clamp to the bottom of the frame to square it with the world, not the side of the frame.
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